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Best Handheld MURS Radios: Budget to Premium

I’ve tested hundreds of radio transceivers across every price range. While MURS (Multi-Use Radio Service) radios aren’t as popular as FRS or GMRS, they offer unique advantages that make them worth considering for specific applications.

MURS operates on five VHF channels between 151-154 MHz, with a maximum power output of 2 watts. Unlike FRS, MURS allows external antennas and has no distance restrictions. Unlike GMRS, it requires no license. This makes MURS ideal for short-range business communications, farm operations, and security applications where you need reliable VHF propagation characteristics.

Why These Three Radios Stand Out

After extensive testing, three MURS radios clearly separate themselves from the competition across different price points: the Retevis RB17V for budget users, the Radioddity MU-5 for those wanting more features, and the BTech MURS V2 for users who demand the best performance. Click on the linked name of the radio for a full review and extensive test results.

Budget Champion: Retevis RB17V

Retevis RB17V featured

Price Range: $35-45
Best For: Basic MURS communications, businesses on a tight budget

The Retevis RB17V proves you don’t need to spend a fortune for reliable MURS communication. This radio delivers solid performance in a simple, no-nonsense package that’s perfect for users who just need basic push-to-talk functionality. In fact, unless you need specific advanced features or weatherproofing, this is what I recommend for virtually everyone.

Key Features:

  • All 5 MURS channels pre-programmed
  • 2-watt maximum power output
  • 16-channel capacity for additional business frequencies
  • Removable antenna (SMA connector)
  • 1500mAh Li-ion battery
  • VOX (hands-free operation)
  • Battery life: 8-12 hours typical use

Performance Notes:

In my testing, the RB17V consistently delivered its full 2-watt output across all MURS channels. Audio quality is clear and loud enough for most environments. The receiver sensitivity is adequate for typical MURS range requirements (1-3 miles depending on terrain).

Pros:

  • Excellent value for money
  • Simple operation – no complex menus
  • Excellent build quality
  • Good battery life
  • Pre-programmed MURS channels work out of the box

Cons:

  • Basic feature set
  • No display
  • No frills

Bottom Line: If you need basic MURS communication without breaking the budget, the RB17V delivers reliable performance. It’s particularly good for businesses equipping multiple employees, property owners who need simple radio communication, or any group or organization where rugged, simple, reliable communicates is all you need.

 

Radioddity MU-5

Midrange Winner: Radioddity MU-5

Price Range: $65-85
Best For: Users wanting additional features and better build quality

The Radioddity MU-5 strikes the perfect balance between price and features. It offers everything most MURS users need while adding conveniences that make daily operation more pleasant.

Key Features:

  • All 5 MURS channels plus 16 additional channels
  • 2-watt power output with high/low settings
  • Color LCD display with backlight
  • Dual watch functionality
  • 50 CTCSS/105 DCS privacy codes
  • Emergency alarm function
  • 2200mAh Li-ion battery
  • USB-C charging
  • Weather alert capability

Performance Notes:

The MU-5 showed excellent spurious emission performance in my lab testing – something I check on every radio, since most reviewers skip this crucial measurement. Power output was consistent 1 watt on high power across all MURS frequencies. Receiver sensitivity measured at -131, which is quite good for this price range.

Pros:

  • LCD display is easy to read in sunlight
  • Excellent battery life (12-16 hours)
  • USB-C charging is convenient
  • Dual watch lets you monitor two channels
  • Good build quality and ergonomics
  • Weather alerts are genuinely useful

Cons:

  • Menu system takes some learning
  • Slightly larger than basic radios
  • Programming software could be more intuitive

Bottom Line: The MU-5 is the sweet spot for most MURS users. It has all the features you’ll actually use without unnecessary complexity or cost.

 

Btech MURS V2

Premium Choice: BTech MURS V2

Price Range: $120-150
Best For: Professional applications, demanding users, those wanting maximum performance

The BTech MURS V2 represents the top tier of MURS radios. While significantly more expensive, it delivers professional-grade performance and features that justify the cost for serious users.

Key Features:

  • All 5 MURS channels
  • 2-watt power output with precise power control
  • High-resolution LCD display
  • Advanced scanning capabilities
  • 200 memory channels with alphanumeric display
  • 1800mAh Li-ion battery
  • IP54 Weatherproof rating
  • Advanced noise reduction
  • Field programmable without software

Performance Notes:

In my testing, the MURS V2 demonstrated very good receiver sensitivity, good audio transmission, and very good power output. Where it really shines is in its additional capabilities and programmability. It also can not be beat when it comes to accessories and replacement batteries as it uses the same ones as the Baofeng UV-82HP.

Pros:

  • Good receiver sensitivity and selectivity
  • Good build quality
  • Weatherproof design handles harsh conditions
  • Advanced features actually useful in practice
  • Excellent audio quality both transmit and receive
  • Bright display easy to read

Cons:

  • More expensive
  • Complex feature set may overwhelm basic users
  • Larger and heavier than budget options

Bottom Line: If you need the most capable MURS radio performance and can justify the cost, the MURS V2 delivers very goodresults. It’s ideal for security applications, critical business communications, or anyone who demands maximum performance and extensive options.

Which Radio Should You Choose?

Choose the Retevis RB17V if:

  • Budget is your primary concern
  • You need basic MURS communication only
  • Simple operation is important
  • You’re equipping multiple users
  • You need something very rugged for daily use

Choose the Radioddity MU-5 if:

  • You want good features without premium pricing
  • LCD display is important to you
  • You need dual watch or weather alerts
  • You want the best balance of price and features

Choose the BTech MURS V2 if:

  • Performance is more important than price
  • You need extremely configurable options
  • Weatherproof operation is required

MURS vs. Alternatives

Before investing in MURS equipment, consider whether it’s the right service for your needs:

Choose MURS over FRS when: You need external antennas, longer range, more durability and reliability, or VHF propagation characteristics.

Choose MURS over GMRS when: You don’t want to get a license, don’t need repeater access, or prefer VHF frequencies.

Choose GMRS over MURS when: You need more power (up to 50 watts), repeater access, or longer range communication.

Final Thoughts

MURS remains an underutilized radio service that offers real advantages for specific applications. The three radios reviewed here represent the best options at their respective price points. Having tested over 200 handheld radios, I can confidently say these deliver reliable MURS communication without the quality issues that plague many cheaper alternatives.

For most users, the Retevis RB17V is probably the best choice. Upgrading to a more expensive radio gives you more features and some weatherproofing, depending on model, but gives up simplicity and durability.

Remember: all MURS radios are limited to 2 watts maximum power, so don’t expect dramatically different range between models. The differences lie in build quality, features, receiver performance, and long-term reliability.

 

FRS vs GMRS vs MURS vs CB: Choose The Right Service

 

frs vs gmrs vs murs vs cb

Users looking at MURS vs FRS and other radio services face many options with important differences in what they can do. FRS radios work within a frequency range of 462-467 MHz and can reach 1-2 miles in open areas with a maximum power output of 2 watts. GMRS radios use the same frequency band but pack more punch with up to 50 watts of power. This extends their range to 5 miles or more, and they can reach up to 10 miles with repeaters.

MURS radios reach about 2 miles in open terrain, similar to FRS in distance. The big advantage of MURS is that you can add external antennas to boost performance. CB radio gives you 40 channels in the 27 MHz range and typically reaches 1-10 miles based on conditions. You can use FRS, MURS, and CB without a license, but GMRS needs a $35 license for 10 years that covers your whole family. Each service has its strengths for different situations.

Off-roaders and preppers love GMRS as a modern take on CB radio. MURS shines in business settings like warehouses because it can transmit data. Your choice between these radio services depends on both technical specs and real-world use cases. This piece breaks down how FRS, GMRS, MURS, and CB radio services differ to help you pick the right one for your needs.

Radio Service Basics: What Are FRS, GMRS, MURS, and CB?

Image Source: HFLINK

Personal radio services give you many ways to communicate based on your needs. Each type works differently because of its tech specs and rules.

FRS: Family Radio Service Overview

The Family Radio Service is a 1996 old license-free communication system that works on UHF frequencies between 462-467 MHz. You can use FRS for short-distance two-way voice chats without getting an individual license. FRS has 22 channels. The power output stays at 2 watts on channels 1-7 and 15-22, but drops to 0.5 watts on channels 8-14. FRS radios come with built-in antennas that you can’t remove and won’t work with external power boosters. This makes FRS perfect for family activities where you need something simple and easy to use rather than long-range coverage.

GMRS: General Mobile Radio Service Overview

GMRS runs on the same UHF band as FRS but packs more power. You’ll need a license from the FCC, which costs $35 and lasts 10 years. The best part about GMRS is its power output—you can go up to 50 watts on some channels. Users can also add detachable antennas and repeater systems to boost their range. GMRS gives you 30 frequency channels around 462 MHz and 467 MHz. The license is a great deal because it covers your whole family—spouse, kids, parents, grandparents, aunts, uncles, nephews, nieces, and in-laws can all use it.

MURS: Multi-Use Radio Service Overview

MURS works in the VHF spectrum between 151-154 MHz, which sets it apart from FRS and GMRS. You get five channels with MURS. Three channels use narrowband FM (11.25 kHz bandwidth), while two channels let you pick between narrowband or wideband FM (20 kHz bandwidth). Like FRS, MURS doesn’t need a license, but you can use external antennas—a big plus over FRS. Power stays at 2 watts max, and antennas can’t go higher than 60 feet above ground or 20 feet above a structure. MURS works great for both personal and business use, so you’ll see it in retail stores, warehouses, and other commercial spots.

CB: Citizens Band Radio Overview

CB radio is a 78-year old personal radio service that started in 1945. It runs on 40 channels in the 27 MHz (11-meter) band of the HF spectrum. You don’t need a license to use CB for personal or business chats. Power tops out at 4 watts for AM and FM modes, and 12 watts peak envelope power for single sideband (SSB). CB signals can travel beyond what you might expect. Under the right weather conditions, they can go way past line-of-sight. Channel 9 stays open just for emergencies and helping travelers.

Range and Power Output: How Far Can Each Service Reach?

Radio services have specific ranges that depend on power output limits and environmental factors that affect signal travel. This knowledge helps you pick the right radio service that matches your communication needs.

FRS Range: 1-2 Miles with 2W Power

You need realistic expectations for Family Radio Service radios, even though manufacturers often oversell their capabilities. FRS works with a maximum power output of 2 watts on channels 1-7 and 15-22. Channels 8-14 are limited to 0.5 watts. The typical range reaches about 0.5 to 1.5 miles in normal conditions. Marketing might promise more, but real-life performance falls short. Urban areas with buildings and obstacles can cut the range to just a few blocks. The signal might travel further in perfect conditions – like between hilltops – reaching up to 5-10 miles.

GMRS Range: Up to 5-10 Miles with 50W Power

General Mobile Radio Service gives you much better range because the FCC allows GMRS transmitters to use up to 50 watts of power. This power output is 25 times more than FRS limits. Mobile setups with car-mounted antennas at full power can reach 5-10 miles on flat ground with few obstacles. Handheld GMRS radios use less power (1-5 watts) and cover shorter distances – usually 2-5 miles in good conditions. GMRS really shines because it can use repeater stations. These stations can extend your communication range to 20 miles or more, based on where they’re placed and how high the antennas are.

MURS Radio Range: Up to 2 Miles in Open Terrain

Multi-Use Radio Service has a set 2-watt maximum power output, much like FRS. These radios typically reach about 2 miles in open areas where nothing blocks the signal. MURS works better than FRS in rural and outdoor settings because it uses VHF frequencies. It also lets you add external antennas – a big advantage over FRS. With an external antenna, MURS signals can travel up to 10 miles or more. This makes it a great choice if you need decent range without getting a license.

CB Range: 1-5 Miles Typical, Up to 20 Miles with Skip

Citizens Band radio runs at 4 watts maximum power, putting it between FRS and GMRS power levels. Most mobile stations can communicate within 1-5 miles. Your range changes based on your antenna type and how well it’s installed. A four-foot fiberglass antenna reaches 4-7 miles, while the best 102-inch whip antenna goes even further. CB stands out because its signals can “skip” off the ionosphere. This means you might talk to someone hundreds or thousands of miles away when atmospheric conditions are right.

Licensing and Legal Requirements

 

frs vs gmrs vs murs vs cb options

Image Source: ordealist

Radio services have key differences in their rules and regulations that affect which option works best if you have specific needs.

FRS: No License Required

The Family Radio Service works under “licensed by rule” status, so you don’t need an individual license when following FCC regulations. Anyone can use FRS radios whatever their age, both for personal and business needs. Only foreign government representatives cannot use FRS. This no-license feature makes FRS available to casual users who want simple communication tools. FRS units need FCC certification and built-in antennas, which manufacturers typically show on their labels.

GMRS: $35 License for 10 Years, Covers Family

GMRS differs from FRS because it needs an FCC license. The license costs $35 and lasts 10 years. The best part about a GMRS license is that it covers your whole family. This includes your spouse, kids, grandkids, stepkids, parents, grandparents, stepparents, siblings, aunts, uncles, nieces, nephews, and in-laws. You must be 18 or older to apply and cannot work for foreign governments. Getting your license is easy through the FCC website and usually takes 1-2 business days.

MURS: No License, Business Use Allowed

Multi-Use Radio Service is another “licensed by rule” service that doesn’t need an individual license. MURS is a chance to use radios for both personal and business needs. Only foreign governments and their representatives cannot use MURS. While users don’t need licenses, all MURS devices must have FCC certification. These minimal rules make MURS a great option for small businesses who want license-free communication.

CB: No License, 40 Channels Available

Citizens Band radio lets you communicate without needing a license or call sign. Everyone can use CB stations except foreign governments, their representatives, federal agencies, or people under FCC cease-and-desist orders. CB has 40 shared channels that work on a “take-turns” basis, so no one owns specific channels. All CB equipment needs FCC certification and proper labels. CB remains popular with truckers and travelers because it’s available without any licensing requirements.

Antenna Rules and Device Flexibility

Antenna specifications and hardware flexibility set radio services apart from each other. These features often determine how useful they are in real-world situations.

FRS: Fixed Antennas Only

FRS equipment comes with permanently attached antennas as part of a self-contained unit. The FCC rules clearly state that “the antenna must be a non-removable integral part of the FRS transmitter type”. Users can’t improve signal performance by adding external antennas because of this restriction. FRS radios can work with detachable accessories like microphones or headsets, but these must be custom-made for specific transceivers. The marketplace has few mobile FRS transceivers available since their fixed antenna design limits installation options.

GMRS: Removable Antennas and Repeater Support

GMRS gives users more hardware options. Pure GMRS transceivers (those without FRS functionality) can use detachable antennas, though some placement rules apply—antennas cannot exceed 20 feet elevation above ground level. The system’s biggest advantage is its support for repeater operations, which other services don’t offer. These repeaters can broadcast at up to 50 watts and use eight dedicated repeater channels. GMRS repeaters usually work in “duplex” mode, where radios send signals on one frequency and receive them on another.

MURS: External Antennas Allowed, No Repeaters

MURS transceivers’ ability to use detachable aerials gives them an edge over FRS. Users can get better range without needing a license. The rules do limit antenna height—they can’t go higher than 60 feet above ground or 20 feet above their mounting structure, whichever is greater. Despite this flexibility with antennas, MURS rules clearly prohibit repeater operations: “MURS stations must not be operated as repeater stations or signal boosters”.

CB: Large Antennas Allowed, No Repeaters

CB radio users have the most antenna options. They can choose from quarter-wavelength whips (102 inches long), fiberglass antennas, magnetic mounts, and ground-plane designs. CB enthusiasts often say 102″ whip antennas give the best range. The antenna’s height and type make a big difference in performance—each foot of antenna length typically adds 1-2 miles of potential range.

Best Use Cases for Each Radio Service

frs vs gmrs vs murs vs cb image

Image Source: Tigrett Outdoors

Radio services shine in different environments and situations. The right choice is vital to get the best communication experience.

FRS: Family Trips, Kids, Short-Range Use

Family Radio Service stands out as the perfect choice for casual users who want simple communication solutions. These license-free radios work great for family outings and camping trips where ease of use matters most. Parents pick FRS radios for their kids because they’re easy to use and have a limited range. This prevents young users from talking to strangers far away. FRS makes short-distance, two-way voice communications easier through small hand-held radios that work like walkie-talkies. These devices prove useful during hiking excursions, shopping mall visits, and amusement parks where families split up but need to stay in touch.

GMRS: Off-Roading, Prepping, Neighborhood Comms

General Mobile Radio Service has grown faster into the go-to communication choice for off-road enthusiasts. Many off-roading clubs use GMRS as their standard technology because of its better range and performance in remote areas. These radios work great for overlanding expeditions and backcountry adventures where cell service doesn’t exist. GMRS radios give reliable communication to emergency response groups. They’ve also caught on with preparedness communities who like the extended family licensing benefits. Channel 16 has become the unofficial “universal off-road channel” for Jeep and 4×4 communities. This creates a standard across different groups.

MURS: Retail, Warehouses, Business Use

Multi-Use Radio Service fills a special spot in commercial use while staying license-free. Walmart and Sam’s Club are the biggest MURS users in the United States. They use it for store operations and inventory management. This service works best in warehouse environments, small businesses, and retail settings. These places need modest range and external antennas. MURS handles both voice and data communications well. This makes it great for operations that need text messaging or GPS location sharing.

CB: Trucking, Roadside Communication

Citizens Band radio remains the life-blood of trucking communications years after its launch. Professional drivers count on CB radios even without cell reception. This makes it essential safety equipment in the transportation industry. Truckers use CB to share important updates about road conditions, weather changes, and upcoming hazards. Channel 19 serves as the main trucking communication channel. Channel 9 stays dedicated to emergencies.

Comparison Table

FeatureFRSGMRSMURSCB
Frequency Range & Power Output462-467 MHz; 2W max (channels 1-7, 15-22), 0.5W (channels 8-14)462-467 MHz; Up to 50W151-154 MHz; 2W max27 MHz; 4W AM/FM, 12W SSB
Range Capabilities1-2 miles in open areas; Limited coverage in urban settings5-10 miles; Extended range to 20+ miles with repeatersStandard range of 2 miles; Extended to 10 miles with external antennaStandard range of 1-5 miles; Additional range through skip
License RequiredNoYes ($35 valid for 10 years)NoNo
Antenna SpecificationsFixed, non-detachable onlyDetachable options available; Repeater support includedExternal antenna compatibility; Repeaters not supportedCompatible with large external antennas; Repeaters not supported
Number of Channels22 channels30 channels5 channels40 channels
Primary ApplicationsFamily activities, camping, kids’ events, close-range communicationOff-road adventures, emergency response, local area networksBusiness operations, warehouse management, commercial useRoad travel, trucking operations, highway communication
Family CoverageSingle userOne license covers entire familySingle userSingle user

Conclusion

Choosing the Right Radio Service For Your Needs

Looking at FRS, GMRS, MURS, and CB radio services reveals key differences that help make the right choice. These services have different ranges – FRS reaches 1-2 miles while GMRS can cover 5-10 miles and even more with repeater systems. FRS, MURS, and CB let you operate without a license. GMRS needs a $35 license that’s good for 10 years and covers your whole family, making it a budget-friendly option for home use.

Each service gives you different equipment options. FRS only works with built-in antennas, which limits what you can do with the radio. GMRS, MURS, and CB are more flexible because they work with external antennas. CB gives you the most antenna choices, which affects how far you can reach and where you can mount your radio.

Your specific needs point to which service works best. FRS is great for family trips where you want something simple. GMRS has become popular with off-roaders and people focused on emergency prep because it reaches farther and works with repeaters. MURS shines in business settings like stores and warehouses. CB remains the go-to choice for truckers and road communication, even with newer options available.

New radio buyers should know exactly what they need before spending money. FRS works well and saves money if you just need simple, short-range communication. GMRS is worth the license fee if you need better range or plan to go off-grid. Business owners who want license-free radios with external antennas will like MURS. Truckers and frequent highway drivers will get the most value from CB’s widespread network.

These radio systems are a great way to get reliable communication without cell networks. They work well in emergencies, remote places, or just for everyday use. The best choice comes down to your communication needs, how far you need to reach, your budget, and if you’re willing to get a license.

Yaesu System Fusion, C4FM, and WIRES-X: A beginner’s guide.

 

C4FM, Fusion, and Wires-X

C4FM represents one of today’s most versatile digital modulation technologies in amateur radio. The Continuous Four Level Frequency Modulation system drives Yaesu’s System Fusion and provides both voice and data transmission capabilities with a maximum raw data rate of 9600 bps. The system’s automatic backward compatibility with analog FM makes it particularly appealing. The repeater matches the transmission type – FM repeats as FM, and C4FM repeats as C4FM.

Ham radio enthusiasts are finding significant value in C4FM radios. The radioid.net database shows at least 161,000 registered callsigns as of late 2023. Yaesu FT-70DR remains the most affordable C4FM radio option at around $175. The modulation matches that of P25 Phase 1 emergency response systems, yet C4FM uses Frequency Division Multiple Access (FDMA). On top of that, it works among WIRES-X, Yaesu’s internet connectivity system. Users can connect to various rooms for extended communications – as with DMR’s use of TalkGroups, though implemented differently than D-Star. This piece explores System Fusion, C4FM, and WIRES-X’s combined operation. You’ll learn the simple steps to set up nodes and hotspots, and get practical tips to start your digital communications journey.

Understanding the Basics: C4FM, Fusion, and Wires-X

 

Image Source: Mid-Atlantic Wireless Communication Group

Digital amateur radio takes a fresh approach with Yaesu’s technologies. Here’s how these connected systems work together.

What is C4FM Modulation in Digital Voice

C4FM (Continuous Four Level Frequency Modulation) is a specific type of FDMA (Frequency Division Multiple Access) digital modulation method. This 4-level FSK technology sends both voice and data through amateur radio bands efficiently.

The 12.5 kHz channel spacing makes C4FM stand out. It sends high-speed data at 9.6 kbps and provides reliable voice communication with strong error correction. This channel bandwidth sets C4FM apart from other digital voice technologies like D-STAR (which uses GMSK modulation) or DMR (which uses TDMA instead of FDMA).

C4FM technology comes with four operating modes:

  • V/D Mode (Voice/Data): Uses half the bandwidth for digital voice and half for error correction data and other information like GPS coordinates – this is the standard mode (often called DN or Digital Narrow)
  • Voice FR Mode (VW): Utilizes the full bandwidth for high-quality voice transmission
  • Data FR Mode (DW): Dedicated to high-speed data transmission for images and text at full rate
  • FM Mode: Maintains backward compatibility with conventional analog FM

V/D mode strikes the best balance between voice quality and data capabilities. Users can send voice along with station information and GPS data simultaneously.

Yaesu System Fusion as a C4FM Implementation

System Fusion is Yaesu’s branded version of C4FM technology. Since its 2013 launch, System Fusion has become popular because of its quality, reliability and better performance in tough radio conditions.

The system’s standout feature is its Automatic Mode Select (AMS). This feature detects incoming signals as C4FM digital or conventional FM and switches modes automatically. Users can communicate between digital and analog systems without manual adjustments.

System Fusion caters to amateur radio enthusiasts rather than commercial users. It focuses on accessible interfaces and features that hobbyists need. Yaesu remains the only company making System Fusion compatible radios.

Wires-X as a Network Layer for Fusion Radios

WIRES-X (Wide-coverage Internet Repeater Enhancement System) serves as the network backbone for System Fusion radios. This system extends amateur radio reach by connecting radio systems through the internet.

Amateur node stations act as internet access points for WIRES-X operation. They connect wireless communication to the global network. Radio users near a node can talk to amateur stations worldwide.

The system uses “rooms” (like D-Star reflectors or DMR talkgroups) where multiple repeaters and nodes connect at once. WIRES-X handles connections between nodes, rooms, and users automatically. Users don’t need the manual DTMF codes that other systems require.

WIRES-X works with both digital C4FM and analog FM users. C4FM digital stations can talk to analog FM stations across the network. This makes it a truly FM-friendly digital solution.

How the Systems Work Together

 

Image Source: Galway VHF Group

Yaesu’s digital ecosystem shows its true strength when C4FM, System Fusion, and WIRES-X work together as one system. This combination creates a flexible platform that goes way beyond the reach and influence of traditional amateur radio.

C4FM Over-the-Air Communication with Repeaters

System Fusion repeaters stand out with their multi-mode capabilities. The Automatic Mode Select (AMS) function quickly detects if an incoming signal is C4FM digital or conventional FM. It then switches to match that mode automatically. The repeater transmits FM for FM signals and digital for digital signals.

This smart handling happens because:

  1. The DR-2X repeater series can be configured for various operations including VHF, UHF, or even cross-band (though not bidirectionally)
  2. Repeaters can operate at variable power levels (50/25/5 watts)
  3. The system supports multiple access control methods including DG-ID, CTCSS, and DCS operations

C4FM uses the entire channel bandwidth but splits it between voice and data, unlike DMR’s time-slot approach where two conversations share the same frequency. System Fusion’s AMS feature makes it easier to use than D-Star’s complex configuration requirements. Users don’t need to switch between digital and analog modes manually.

Wires-X Rooms and Node Linking Explained

WIRES-X builds a network where local nodes act as gateways to the broader internet-connected system. These nodes are radio stations with internet connections that pass along communications from regular stations.

The connection works in this order:

A mobile or fixed station sends a signal to a local node. The node picks up this transmission and sends it through the internet to another node. The receiving node then broadcasts the message to local listeners.

“Rooms” are the life-blood of WIRES-X networking – they’re community spaces where multiple nodes can connect at once. Yes, it is like a conference call where operators from different places talk as a group. Each room has its own ID, usually with meaningful names that make them easy to find.

WIRES-X is available to analog users through conventional FM, but with limited features compared to digital mode. This compatibility lets C4FM digital stations and analog FM stations communicate naturally across the network.

Role of HRI-200 in Wires-X Connectivity

The HRI-200 interface unit connects your radio equipment to WIRES-X’s internet backbone. This hardware makes Voice-over-IP technology possible, which extends amateur radio range.

The HRI-200 setup needs:

  • A PC running Windows with the WIRES-X software
  • A compatible C4FM digital transceiver (such as FTM-400DR/DE or FTM-100DR/DE)
  • Internet connection (preferably 8 Mbps or faster)
  • Mini-DIN digital cable connection to the transceiver

The HRI-200 connects to a computer through a USB cable. It doesn’t need extra power since it uses USB bus power. The software handles port forwarding with UPnP functions, which makes router setup easier than other internet linking technologies.

For portable use, the Portable Digital Node function lets compatible C4FM transceivers connect directly to a PC without the HRI-200 interface. This option offers two modes: Access Point Operation to relay nearby C4FM signals while connected to WIRES-X, or Direct Operation that uses the transceiver just for internet communications.

This integrated system combines digital advantages with analog compatibility. Yaesu’s approach is powerful enough for advanced users while remaining user-friendly for beginners.

Setting Up Your First Fusion Node or Hotspot

C4FM digital communications offer several setup choices. You can choose between full-fledged nodes and simple hotspot solutions. Let’s look at your options to join this digital ecosystem.

Using FTM-100/400 with HRI-200 for Node Setup

Yaesu keeps tight control over its ecosystem through dedicated equipment. The best way to set up a Fusion node pairs an FTM-100D or FTM-400XD/D transceiver with the HRI-200 interface kit. This differs from D-Star and DMR systems that give you various hardware options.

Your complete node setup needs a Windows PC with a 2.0 GHz or better processor. The system works best with an 8 Mbps or faster internet connection and a global IP address. You’ll also need an FTM-100D or FTM-400XD/D transceiver and an HRI-200 interface connected to your PC through USB.

The setup needs six UDP ports opened on your router: 46100, 46110, 46112, 46114, 46120, and 46122. The WIRES-X software makes this easier with its port check function and UPnP automatic registration.

Starting HRI mode on your radio takes a simple step. Press the [DX] + [GM] buttons while turning on the power. The WIRES-X logo will show up on your display screen.

Direct Mode Operation Without a Repeater

The system supports two approaches without needing a dedicated WIRES-X repeater. Direct Operation turns your radio into an internet connection point. All communications go through the PC to the internet without RF transmission. This gives you privacy since no local transmissions happen.

Access Point Operation works differently. Your station becomes a mini-repeater that handles local C4FM digital transmissions from nearby radios. It keeps internet connectivity while helping other local users connect to global WIRES-X rooms.

YSF Reflectors and Pi-Star Hotspot Configuration

Pi-Star hotspots give you a cheaper way to get started. Unlike the expensive HRI-200 solution, Pi-Star works with Raspberry Pi computers and MMDVM modems to create a budget-friendly option.

Pi-Star connects to WIRES-X rooms through YSF reflectors using gateways and bridges. Many users now prefer W0CHP-PiStar-Dash (WPSD). This enhanced version runs better and adds features like M17 support and Profile Manager.

You can set up automatic YSF reflector links through Pi-Star’s crontab system. Adding “30 07 * * * root pistar-ysflink ysf26368” links your hotspot to reflector #26368 at 7:30 AM each day.

Connecting to YSF rooms from your radio becomes easy. Hold the “GM” X button and use “Search and Direct” to find available reflectors.

Using Fusion Radios and Navigating Wires-X

 

C4FM, Fusion, and Wires-X

Image Source: morsetutor.com

Your C4FM radio becomes easy to use once you set it up. The daily use of your Fusion radio revolves around three main activities: digital room connections, media sharing, and managing your favorite connections.

Accessing and Switching Wires-X Rooms

You need to connect to a local node before accessing Wires-X rooms. Tune your C4FM radio to an available node frequency and hold the “X” button until you hear a beep and see a flashing “X” on your display. Your radio will show the node ID and city name automatically when you connect successfully.

You can find rooms in several ways:

  • Browse active rooms by popularity
  • Look up specific room IDs with keywords
  • Check your previous connections

Wires-X rooms offer a more accessible interface compared to DMR’s talkgroups that need specific timeslots. Just pick the room you want and start communicating.

The PTT key can “wake up” a hotspot if nothing happens after pressing the X button. Note that most radios only support Wires-X on VFO A.

Uploading Voice and Picture Messages

The news function in C4FM radios lets you share media. You can exchange messages, images, and voice memos with others in your connected room.

You’ll need an optional MH-85A11U camera microphone with your compatible radio to send images. Take and share snapshots with other C4FM digital transceivers using the microphone’s shutter button.

Saving and Managing Room Favorites

Fusion radios let you save your frequent nodes and rooms so you won’t have to search for them again. You can organize them into five categories and save up to 20 rooms in each.

Your radio’s menu system helps you add rooms to your favorites list after connecting. This makes it quick to access your saved rooms later.

The Digital Group Monitor (GM) function shows if registered group members are nearby. It displays their distance and orientation on screen – something you won’t find in D-Star or DMR systems.

Bridging and Compatibility with Other Systems

Digital radio systems need to work together as different standards compete for widespread adoption. Let’s see how System Fusion connects with other digital voice technologies.

Bridging Wires-X to YSF and FCS Reflectors

Bridging expands Yaesu’s ecosystem beyond its own boundaries. Amateur radio operators host YSF (Yaesu System Fusion) reflectors as a decentralized, open-source alternative to WIRES-X. FCS provides centralized System Fusion reflector services with five servers containing 99 modules each.

Building a WIRES-X to YSF bridge needs specific hardware – usually an FTM-100 or FTM-400 radio in PDN mode connected to a computer. Yaesu makes this process challenging to protect their ecosystem’s integrity, though many popular WIRES-X rooms now connect to YSF/FCS reflectors.

Cross-Mode Linking with DMR and D-Star

C4FM users can talk to DMR and D-Star networks despite their different protocols. This communication happens through two main ways:

  • Software-Based Bridging (via hotspots): Pi-Star devices enable cross-mode operation using features like YSF2DMR for Fusion-to-DMR communication
  • Hardware-Based RF Bridges: Physical connections between two radios with audio interfaces and PTT management

BrandMeister talkgroup 31000 connects to YSF bridges for DMR-to-YSF bridging. DMR talkgroup 4000 links to D-Star networks. These bridges convert the digital voice protocol between different systems.

AMBE2 Codec Compatibility Across Modes

Shared vocoder technology makes this interoperability possible. Multiple digital voice systems use the AMBE+2 codec (Advanced Multi-Band Excitation) as their standard:

  • System Fusion/C4FM
  • DMR and MOTOTRBO
  • NXDN and APCO Project 25 Phase 2

Digital conversion works without needing analog decoding first, thanks to this common codec. D-Star uses the older AMBE codec, so communication with other systems needs conversion to audio before re-encoding.

Digital Voice Systems Inc.’s (DVSI) proprietary licensing still limits complete interoperability. The AMBE+2 vocoder delivers high-quality speech compression at data rates from 2.0 to 9.6 kbps, which explains why so many digital radio platforms use it.

Conclusion

System Fusion, C4FM, and WIRES-X create one of the most available digital amateur radio ecosystems today. This piece shows how C4FM’s four-level modulation delivers excellent voice quality and handles data transmission efficiently. C4FM’s Automatic Mode Select capability bridges the gap between digital and analog worlds—something both DMR and D-Star systems don’t deal very well with.

Yaesu’s implementation offers a gentler learning curve for newcomers compared to DMR’s time-slot approach or D-Star’s complex configuration requirements. DMR provides more efficient spectrum usage through its TDMA architecture, and D-Star offers robust routing capabilities. However, System Fusion excels with its plug-and-play simplicity and analog compatibility.

WIRES-X improves this ecosystem by connecting local nodes to a worldwide network through user-friendly room-based architecture. You can establish your digital footprint easily using either the official HRI-200 interface or more affordable Pi-Star hotspots. The expanding bridge capabilities to other digital modes ensure your investment remains future-proof as the amateur radio world develops.

Ham radio operators ended up facing many choices when entering the digital realm. C4FM stands out because it integrates seamlessly with analog and operates straightforwardly—qualities that matter especially when you have operators transitioning from traditional FM. The skills you develop with System Fusion will without doubt serve as a solid foundation to learn other digital voice technologies.

Yaesu’s approach specifically addresses traditional operators’ concerns. The system honors ham radio’s collaborative spirit while embracing technological advancement. Amateur radio has always been about adaptation and discovery—C4FM represents the next chapter in this ongoing development.

FAQs

Q1. What’s the difference between C4FM and WIRES-X in Yaesu’s digital system? C4FM is the digital modulation mode used for voice and data transmission, while WIRES-X is the internet connectivity system that allows users to link repeaters and nodes for extended communications.

Q2. How do I access WIRES-X rooms with my Yaesu Fusion radio? To access WIRES-X rooms, tune your radio to a local node frequency, press and hold the “X” button until you hear a beep, then use the radio’s interface to search for and connect to available rooms.

Q3. Can Yaesu System Fusion communicate with other digital modes like DMR and D-Star? Yes, cross-mode communication is possible through software-based bridging (using devices like Pi-Star hotspots) or hardware-based RF bridges that connect different digital systems.

Q4. What equipment do I need to set up a Fusion node? To set up a full Fusion node, you’ll need a compatible Yaesu transceiver (like FTM-100D or FTM-400XD), an HRI-200 interface, a Windows PC, and an internet connection. Alternatively, you can use a Pi-Star hotspot for a more affordable setup.

Q5. How does System Fusion handle compatibility between digital and analog modes? System Fusion uses Automatic Mode Select (AMS) to detect incoming signal types and automatically switch between digital C4FM and analog FM modes, allowing seamless communication between digital and analog users.

Why MURS Radios Aren’t More Popular (And Why That Might Change)

MURS radio

Have you ever heard of MURS radios? If you haven’t, you’re not alone. I get asked about all sorts of radio equipment, but MURS (Multi-Use Radio Service) is one topic that barely comes up in conversation. That’s pretty surprising when you consider what these radios can actually do.

Here’s the thing – MURS operates on five VHF frequencies between 151-154 MHz that can give you some seriously impressive range for a license-free service. We’re talking up to 2 watts of power, and with the right setup, you can potentially reach out over 50 miles. Yet most people have never even heard the term “MURS radio.”

What really gets me is that major companies like Walmart are already using these radios every day for their store communications. If they’re good enough for a company that size, why aren’t more people talking about them? The VHF frequencies actually work better than a lot of the 2.4 GHz stuff you see everywhere, and with narrower bandwidth on most channels, you get less interference too.

But here’s where it gets interesting – despite all these advantages, MURS radios are still flying under the radar. Poor marketing, confusing regulations, and limited availability have kept them in the shadows. However, recent changes to FCC Part 95 rules might just change all that.

So what exactly is MURS, why hasn’t it caught on, and more importantly, why do I think that’s about to change? Let me walk you through what I’ve learned about this overlooked radio service and why you might want to pay attention.

Breaking Down MURS: What You Need to Know

GMRS vs MURS

 

Image Source: GMRS Two Way Radios and Long Range Radio Solutions

MURS stands for Multi-Use Radio Service, and it’s been around since the FCC established it back in 2000. Like FRS and CB, it’s what they call a “licensed-by-rule” service under Part 95 of FCC regulations, which means you don’t need to get a license or pay any fees to use it. Pretty straightforward setup.

The Five MURS Frequencies

MURS gives you five specific VHF channels to work with in the 151-154 MHz range. These aren’t just random frequencies – they’re split into two groups with different characteristics:

ChannelFrequencyBandwidthCommon Name
1151.820 MHz11.25 kHzMURS 1
2151.880 MHz11.25 kHzMURS 2
3151.940 MHz11.25 kHzMURS 3
4154.570 MHz20.00 kHzBlue Dot
5154.600 MHz20.00 kHzGreen Dot

The first three channels have to use narrowband frequency modulation, while channels 4 and 5 can use either wideband or narrowband FM. All channels are capped at 2 watts maximum power output, but here’s something interesting – there are no restrictions on antenna gain. That’s where you can really make a difference in your range.

How MURS Stacks Up Against Other Radio Services

I’ve used radios across all the major services, and MURS sits in an interesting spot. Unlike GMRS, you don’t need to pay for a license or register anything. Compared to FRS, MURS has some real advantages:

  • You can use external antennas (FRS radios have fixed antennas)
  • VHF frequencies work better in rural areas and outdoors
  • The channels are usually much less crowded

The downside? MURS only gives you five channels compared to FRS’s 22 channels. GMRS also beats MURS on power – GMRS can go up to 50 watts and allows repeaters, which MURS doesn’t.

Where MURS Actually Gets Used

MURS radios work just like any other walkie-talkie for basic communication. But I’ve seen them used in some pretty specific situations:

  • Big retailers like Walmart and Sam’s Club use MURS for employee communications
  • Construction sites and warehouses where cell coverage is spotty
  • Outdoor activities where you need reliable short-range comms
  • Wireless intercom systems and PA setups
  • Customer service call boxes
  • Even dog training collars with remote control
  • Emergency backup communications in rural areas

Range-wise, you’re typically looking at a few miles with handheld units, but throw on a decent external antenna and you can push that out to ten miles or more. Not bad for a license-free service.

So what’s keeping MURS in the shadows?

 

Wouxun MURS radio

 

Image Source: Buy Two Way Radios

With all those advantages I just mentioned, you’d think MURS radios would be everywhere. They’re not. I’ve been watching this space for years, and there are some pretty clear reasons why MURS remains the underdog of the radio world.

Nobody knows they exist

This is the big one. Most people have never even heard of MURS. I can walk into any ham radio club meeting and ask about MURS, and maybe one person out of ten will know what I’m talking about. That’s among radio enthusiasts – forget about regular consumers.

Compare that to CB radios, which everyone knows about thanks to movies and truckers, or FRS radios that are in every camping section. MURS? It’s like the radio service that forgot to hire a marketing team. Even people who use two-way radios regularly for hiking or work often have no clue that MURS exists as an option.

The irony is that MURS frequencies can punch through buildings better than UHF and give you more range with a decent antenna, but if nobody knows about these benefits, they might as well not exist.

Good luck finding one on the shelf

Want to see the problem firsthand? Walk into a Walmart, Best Buy, or sporting goods store and count the FRS/GMRS radios on display. Now try to find a dedicated MURS radio. You won’t.

I’ve seen entire walls of bubble-pack radios – FRS models, GMRS models, even some CB handhelds. But MURS radios? You’ll be lucky to find one model buried in the back corner, if anything at all. The major manufacturers have put all their eggs in the FRS/GMRS basket, leaving MURS as an afterthought.

This creates a chicken-and-egg problem. Retailers don’t stock what they can’t sell, but customers can’t buy what isn’t on the shelf. Without retail presence, MURS remains invisible to the average consumer who might actually benefit from using it.

The good news is you can get them online and they are reasonably priced. The Retevis RB17V shown above are about $50 for a pair and are excellet radios built like a tank.

Radio alphabet soup confusion

Let’s be honest – the radio service landscape is confusing enough to make your head spin. FRS, GMRS, MURS, CB, FHSS, Part 90, Part 95… it’s like someone decided to make choosing a simple radio as complicated as possible.

Most people just want something that works. They walk into a store, see a package that says “walkie-talkie” or “two-way radio,” and grab it. They’re not going to research the differences between VHF and UHF, or figure out whether they need narrowband or wideband FM.

Even when someone does stumble across MURS radios, the lack of clear explanation doesn’t help. Product descriptions might mention “MURS compatible” without explaining what that means or why you might want it. Until manufacturers start speaking plain English about what makes each service different, most people will stick with what they recognize.

The Real Reasons MURS Hasn’t Taken Off

Now that we’ve covered what MURS is and why most people don’t know about it, let me tell you about the technical roadblocks that really hold this service back. The FCC has put some pretty strict rules in place that limit what you can do with MURS radios, and honestly, some of these restrictions make the service less appealing than it could be.

2-watt power limit and antenna height restrictions

The FCC caps MURS at 2 watts, which sounds reasonable until you compare it to other services. GMRS radios can push 50 watts, and even some FRS radios are allowed higher power on certain channels. That 2-watt limit really shows up when you’re trying to communicate in tough conditions or urban areas with lots of interference.

But here’s what gets me – they also restrict your antenna height to 60 feet above ground or 20 feet above whatever structure you’re mounting it on. Anyone who’s worked with radios knows that antenna height is everything for VHF communications. You can have the best radio in the world, but if your antenna is down low, your range is going to suffer.

No repeaters allowed under FCC rules

This is the big one that really limits MURS potential. The FCC is crystal clear about this: “MURS stations must not be operated as repeater stations or signal boosters”. No repeaters, no signal boosters, nothing[112]. You’re stuck with direct radio-to-radio communications only.

Think about it – amateur radio operators can set up repeaters to extend their coverage for miles and miles. GMRS allows repeaters too. But with MURS, you’re limited to whatever simplex range you can get. For businesses or organizations that need reliable coverage across large areas, this is a deal-breaker.

Narrowband requirements and compatibility issues

The bandwidth rules are another headache. Channels 1-3 have to use narrowband FM at 11.25 kHz, while channels 4-5 can use either narrowband or wideband at 20 kHz. This creates compatibility issues between different radios and especially between older and newer equipment.

I’ve seen this firsthand where someone has an older radio that won’t talk properly to a newer one because of these bandwidth differences. The FCC’s narrowbanding push makes sense from a spectrum management standpoint, but it creates real-world problems for users.

And here’s something that might surprise you – MURS radios can actually interfere with other devices on the same frequencies. Garmin’s dog tracking systems like the Astro and Alpha series operate on MURS bands. So if you’re using MURS radios in an area where someone is tracking their hunting dogs, you might hear some interesting chatter that has nothing to do with your communications.

These technical limitations aren’t just bureaucratic red tape – they have real impact on how useful MURS can be for different applications. But as we’ll see, some of these restrictions might be loosening up.

Why I Think MURS Is About to Take Off

Here’s where things get interesting. After years of MURS sitting in the background, I’m seeing signs that this might finally be changing. Several trends are coming together that could push MURS into the spotlight.

The Prepper Community Is Catching On

Emergency preparedness folks have started to figure out what MURS can do for them. They’ve actually designated specific channels – MURS Channel 3 (151.940 MHz) as the “MURS Prepper channel” and MURS Channel 4 (154.570 MHz) as the “MURS Survivalist channel” or “Blue Dot Channel”.

What I find interesting is their reasoning. These groups value MURS because the channels are typically much clearer than what you get with FRS or GMRS. As one prepper put it, MURS is “a great choice for serious recreational, prepper or SHTF emergency communications”. When you’re planning for emergencies, having reliable, uncrowded frequencies matters.

Big Business Is Already Using It

Here’s something that might surprise you – major retailers like Walmart and Sam’s Club are already using Motorola RDM2070D radios programmed on MURS frequencies for their employee communications. If it’s good enough for operations that size, that says something about the reliability.

Construction sites are jumping on board too. Think about it – cell phones can be dangerous distractions “in a fast-paced environment with heavy equipment and machinery moving”. MURS gives them clear, reliable communication without the safety issues. Warehouses and farms with big coverage areas but spotty cell service are finding MURS particularly useful.

Digital Capabilities Are Opening New Doors

The FCC recently expanded what you can do with MURS by allowing automatic location and data transmissions. This is huge for emergency situations where “an individual who is disoriented or unable to send a manual transmission could be helped by the automatic transmission of location information”.

Products like goTenna are already using MURS bands to let you “send texts and share locations on a peer-to-peer basis” through your smartphone. That’s pretty cool stuff that goes way beyond traditional voice communications.

Recent FCC Changes Are Game Changers

The FCC modernized Part 95 rules back in September 2017, and the effects are just starting to show. As one industry observer noted, “the real big changes here are not the EIRP/channels/wattage changes, its the digital data allowance changes and the ability to be included in WiFi/BT devices”.

These regulatory updates open up possibilities for MURS applications that we haven’t even thought of yet. When you combine easier digital integration with the existing advantages of MURS, you start to see why I think this service is positioned for growth.

The Bottom Line on MURS Radios

So here’s where I stand on MURS after looking at all the pieces. These radios sit in an interesting spot – they’re clearly better than a lot of people realize, but they’re held back by some real limitations that aren’t going away anytime soon.

The 2-watt power limit and no-repeater rules definitely hurt MURS compared to other services. But those VHF frequencies really do punch above their weight, especially if you can get a decent external antenna on there. I’ve seen what Walmart does with these radios, and that tells me something about their practical value.

The biggest problem remains the same one I started with – most people just don’t know MURS exists. Limited product selection doesn’t help either. When you walk into a store looking for two-way radios, you’re going to see FRS and GMRS options everywhere, maybe some CB gear, but finding a dedicated MURS radio? Good luck with that. Even with radios like the Radioddity MU-5 shown above with excellent build quality as well as NOAA weather receiving & scanning, FM, SOS alarm, flashlight, squelch, VOX, TOT (time out time), Squelch Tail Elimination, and power save mode features.

But here’s what has me thinking MURS might finally get its day. The FCC changes in 2017 opened up digital capabilities that companies are starting to use. The prepper and emergency prep communities are paying attention. And more businesses are figuring out that sometimes you need something between basic FRS radios and getting a GMRS license.

My take? If you’re looking for license-free communications and FRS isn’t cutting it for your needs, MURS is worth a serious look. Just understand what you’re getting into – limited radio choices, specific technical requirements, and a service that most people have never heard of.

The future probably depends on whether manufacturers decide to make more MURS equipment and whether people start demanding it. Right now, it feels like MURS is one good marketing push away from breaking out of its niche. Whether that happens or not, well, that remains to be seen.

As always, do your own research and figure out what works best for your specific situation. MURS might be exactly what you need, or it might not be worth the hassle compared to other options. At least now you know it exists.

Top 10 Best Handheld Ham Radios: Best in Analog and Digital

Whether you’re just starting in ham radio or looking to upgrade your gear, choosing the right handheld transceiver (HT) can be overwhelming. We’ve broken down the best HTs into six key categories: three for analog radios based on price and three for digital radios based on price and modulation mode—DMR, C4FM (Yaesu System Fusion), and D-Star (Icom).

Be sure to click the linked radio name, or the Read Review button to see the full review with test results of each radio. I also added a few bonus radios so there are more than ten. There are a few radios without full reviews, we are working as hard as we can to get more tests done and reviews added, but there are a LOT of radios out there. Please be patient.


Best Budget Analog Handhelds

Winner: Baofeng UV-5R 

Still unbeatable in value, the UV-5R remains a popular entry-level dual-band VHF/UHF radio. It’s widely supported, modifiable, and under $17. Oddly enough, it has some pretty good performance even with that price point. That includes very low spurious emissions, for a Baofeng that is, with an SES of 141 which compares to the average for Baofeng radios of over 305. 

Pros:

  • Extremely affordable
  • Broad community support and accessories
  • Custom firmware options (e.g., firmware mod kit)
  • Can be opened for extended TX

Cons:

  • Mediocre receiver filtering
  • Not great harmonics
  • Not known for long-term reliability
Baofeng UV-5R
Read reviewBuy now

 

 

Runner-Up: Baofeng BF-F8HP

An upgraded version of the UV-5R, the BF-F8HP offers higher power output and improved performance, but at a much higher price tag. I really struggled with this as I personally prefer the Baofeng UV-9R Plus, but that is personal, and the BF-F8HP is objectively better by every measure except waterproofing. 

With higher power output, and lower spurious emissions, this is one of the best compromises out there as it still uses all the same chargers, microphones, batteries, programming cables, etc as the venerable UV-5R. Yes, there are bigger and newer radios for this price or less, but they just can’t match the output signal (quality, not just raw power), portability, and backwards compatibility of this radio.

Key Features:

  • Dual-Band Operation: VHF (136–174 MHz) and UHF (400–520 MHz).
  • Power Output: Up to 8 watts.
  • Memory Channels: 128 programmable channels.
  • Additional Features: Improved antenna, larger battery, and enhanced durability.
  • Reduced spurious emissions: Provides more power on frequency and better radio longevity.

While slightly above the $50 mark, the BF-F8HP is often available on sale for under $50, making it a worthy consideration for budget-conscious hams seeking enhanced performance.

Baofeng BF-F8HP
Read reviewBuy now

 


Best Midrange Analog Handhelds 

 

Winner: Yaesu FT-4XR

Compact, rugged, and FCC Part 95 certified, the FT-4XR offers real analog performance with excellent audio and better filtering than budget HTs. Here is your chance to own a seriously good radio for a budget price, often under $100. This is not a radio packed full of bells and whistles, it is a radio that does the basics, but does them extremely well. 

Pros:

  • Outstanding audio clarity
  • Long battery life
  • Yaesu build quality and durability
  • Virtually no spurious emissions, as you would expect

Cons:

  • Programming cable sold separately
  • Slightly limited display
Yaesu FT-4XR
Read reviewBuy now

 

Runner-Up: Wouxun KG-UV9P/D Plus

The Wouxun KG-UV9P and D Plus are dual-band (VHF/UHF) handheld transceivers that combine robust performance with a sleek, professional appearance. The two radios are virtually the same, with the P being a higher power version of the D Plus. 

Key Features:

  • Dual-Band Operation: Covers both VHF (136–174 MHz) and UHF (400–512 MHz) frequencies.
  • Power Output: Up to 5 watts on VHF and 4 watts on UHF.
  • Display: Large, full-color LCD screen for clear visibility.
  • Dual Receive: True dual receive capability (V+V, U+U, V+U).
  • Cross-Band Repeat Function: Allows the radio to act as a repeater between VHF and UHF bands.
  • Memory Channels: 999 programmable channels.
  • Battery: 2000mAh high-capacity battery providing extended operation time.
  • Durability: IP55 rated for dust and water resistance.

Pros:

  • Excellent audio clarity and loudness.
  • Solid build quality suitable for various environments.
  • Comprehensive feature set for advanced users.

Cons:

  • Programming requires proprietary software and cable.
  • Display may be difficult to read in direct sunlight.

Priced around $150–$180, the KG-UV9P or D Plus offer a balance of functionality and aesthetics, making them a suitable choice for those seeking a high-end analog handheld radio without the flashy design elements.

Wouxun KG-UV-9P/D Plus
Read reviewBuy now

 


Best High-End Analog Handhelds ($150+)

Winner: Yaesu FT-60R

The Yaesu FT-60R is a dual-band (2m/70cm) handheld transceiver renowned for its durability, reliability, and user-friendly interface. With a robust construction and straightforward operation, it’s a favorite among amateur radio enthusiasts. While an older radio, being introduced in 2004 at the Dayton Hamvention, that should tell you how good it really is. Few handheld radios remain good sellers on the market for over twenty years.

Key Features:

  • Dual-Band Operation: Covers both 2 meters and 70 centimeters bands.
  • Power Output: Up to 5 watts.
  • Memory Channels: 1000 programmable channels.
  • Additional Features: NOAA weather alerts, wideband receive, and emergency automatic ID.
  • Durability: Solid build quality suitable for various environments.

Priced around $180, the FT-60R offers excellent value for those seeking a high-quality analog handheld radio.

Yaesu FT-60R
Read reviewBuy now

 

Runner-Up: Alinco DJ-VX50t

A solid dual-band HT with great water resistance and extremely durable IP67 dust/waterproof housing, often overlooked. It includes wideband receive, semi-duples cualband, a variety of scan modes, and some advanced features for the ham radio enthusiast. It may not be a Yaesu FT-60R, but it has better weather resistance and about an $80 smaller pricetag.

Pros:

  • MIL-STD rated

  • Loud, clear audio

  • High power output

Cons:

  • Display is small and basic (but shows two frequencies)
  • Not as feature-rich as the FT-60R
Alinco DJ-VX50T
Review Coming Soon!Buy now

Best Budget Digital Handhelds 

DMR Winner: Baofeng DM-1701

The Baofeng DM-1701 is a dual-band (VHF/UHF) handheld transceiver that supports both analog and digital (DMR Tier II) modes. It’s a popular choice among amateur radio enthusiasts for its affordability and feature set. Not only is it a good radio, but it has a huge following and can even be upgraded to the popular OpenGD77 firmware. In fact, you can even get them with the OpenGD77 firmware preinstalled. 

Key Features:

  • Dual-Band Operation: Covers both VHF and UHF frequencies.
  • DMR Tier II Support: Compatible with MOTOTRBO systems.
  • Power Output: Up to 5 watts.
  • Channel Capacity: Supports 3,000 channels and 100,000 contacts.
  • Display: 1.77-inch color TFT screen.
  • Battery: 2000mAh battery providing up to 12 hours of operation.
  • Programming: USB programming cable included; supports third-party firmware like OpenGD77 for enhanced features.

Priced under $80, the DM-1701 offers excellent value for those seeking a versatile DMR handheld radio. You are going to be hard pressed to find a better value in a DMR radio.

Baofeng DM-1701
Review Coming SoonBuy now

 

C4FM Winner: Yaesu FT-70DR

Often found around $150 used, or $200 new, the FT-70DR brings both analog and digital functionality in a simple but capable package. This is the least expensive way to get into Yaesu’s digital ecosystem, and while not cheap, it is an extremely good radio.

Pros:

  • Dual-mode (FM/C4FM)
  • Strong audio output
  • Excellent price/performance ratio
  • Virtually no spurious emissions
  • Fantastic build quality

Cons:

  • No GPS/APRS
  • Slightly bulky
Yaesu FT-70DR
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D-Star Winner: Icom ID-50A

D-Star radios are not know for their low budget models. At the time of this writing, the ID-50A is the least expensive, entry-level, D-Star radio available. Saying that while looking at a price tag of almost $400 is a little jarring. The good news is that all D-Star radios are excellent radios even when just looking at their analog functions. This Icom ID-50A is no exception.

Pros:

  • Share picture funtion
  • Build an internet gateway
  • Band Scope waterfall shows active channels/frequencies
  • IPX7 waterproofing
  • Very well built

Cons:

  • Not inexpensive
Icom ID-50A
Review Coming Soon!Buy now

 


Best Midrange Digital Handhelds 

DMR Winner: Alinco DJ-MD5 (FXT/XEG/XTG)

I have long thought the Alinco DJ-MD5 series of radios have been the hidden gems of the DMR radio world. They are nice to use, look good, work well, affordable, and offer options depending on what you want to do. The FXT is the basic version, the XEG adds GPS and limited APRS, and the XTG adds GPS and full APRS support. These range in price from about $200 to around $289. 

Pros:

  • Dual-band DMR
  • Full-color screen
  • Active firmware updates and strong support (I have heard they share firmware with Anytone)

Cons:

  • Large price jump from the base Baofeng DM-1701
Alinco DJ-MD5
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C4FM Winner: Yaesu FT-70DR

If you are asking yourself if you are seeing double, you are, this is the second time this radio has appeared in this list. Often found around $150 used, or $200 new, the FT-70DR brings both analog and digital functionality in a simple but capable package. This is the least expensive way to get into Yaesu’s digital ecosystem, and while not cheap, it is an extremely good radio.

Pros:

  • Dual-mode (FM/C4FM)
  • Strong audio output
  • Excellent price/performance ratio
  • Virtually no spurious emissions
  • Fantastic build quality

Cons:

  • No GPS/APRS
  • Slightly bulky
Yaesu FT-70DR
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D-Star Winner: Icom ID-52A

There are three models (currently) of this radio; the ID-52A (the one I own), the ID-52A Plus, and the ID-52A Plus 60 Years edition. They are all just about the same with a few astetic changes to the 60 year edition and enhanced bluetooth and USB-C on both of the Plus editions. Other than that, the radios are all virtually identical.

They are also amazing radios. The only reasons I prefer my Kenwood TH-D74A is that it has a full keypad with numbers, the Kenwood fits my hand a little better, and has an expanded receive section. The larger screen on the ID-52A is nicer than my Kenwood and the radio seems every bit as good. Icom has really hit it out of the park with their modern D-Star radios.

Pros:

  • Gorgeous color display
  • Bluetooth and USB-C on Plus models
  • Full D-Star feature set
  • Amazing receiver section and beautifully clean output signal

Cons:

  • Price over $600, hitting almost $800 when stock is low
  • Wider than many radios, hard for me to hold comfortably
Icom ID-52A

Review Coming Soon!

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Best High-End Digital Handhelds ($250+)

Anytone at-d878uvii plus featured

DMR Winner: AnyTone AT-D878UVII Plus

The latest in the 878 line with additional filtering, better GPS/APRS handling, and ruggedized body. Perfect for serious DMR users. If you are tired of seeing all your friends using all the high-end features of their D-Star and C4FM radios, wishing you had some of those cool features, wish no more. The AT-D878UVII Plus delivers virtually everything you could want in a DMR radio. It also does it for a lot less money!

Pros:

  • Tri-band (VHF/UHF/220)
  • Fully customizable display
  • Great support and active firmware development
  • Bluetooth and Bluetooth PTT support
  • 3100Ah battery
  • 500,000 digital contacts!

Cons:

  • Heavier than competitors
  • Still complex for beginners
AnyTone AT-D878UVII Plus

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C4FM Winner: Yaesu FT-5DR

Yaesu’s flagship HT with waterproofing, touch control, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, APRS, and full Fusion support. This is currently the highest-end fusion/C4FM radio on the planet.

Pros:

  • Premium build
  • Dual independent receivers
  • Loud audio and robust features
  • Full color touchscreen
  • Every option Yaesu offers in a handheld

Cons:

  • Premium price
  • Interface not as intuitive as Kenwood or Icom premium offerings
  • Touchscreen not great if you have fat fingers
Yaesu FT-5DR

Review Coming Soon!

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D-Star Winner: Kenwood TH-D75A

The Kenwood TH-D75A is a feature-rich tri-band (144/220/430 MHz) handheld transceiver that supports D-STAR digital voice and data communications. Building upon the legacy of its predecessor, the TH-D74, this model introduces several enhancements tailored for the modern amateur radio operator.

Key Features:

  • Tri-Band Operation: Covers 2 meters, 1.25 meters, and 70 centimeters bands.
  • D-STAR Support: Enables digital voice and data communications.
  • APRS Compatibility: Built-in GPS for real-time position reporting and messaging.
  • Simultaneous Reception: Capable of receiving two D-STAR signals concurrently.
  • Reflector Terminal Mode: Allows access to D-STAR reflectors via USB or Bluetooth without the need for a hotspot.
  • Connectivity: Features USB Type-C for charging and data transfer, as well as Bluetooth headset PTT support.
  • Display: High-resolution color screen for clear visibility.
  • Durability: Meets IP54/55 standards for dust and water resistance.

With a price point over $650, the TH-D75A is an investment for serious operators seeking advanced digital capabilities in a handheld device. If you want the bulk of the D75’s capabilities for less money, the D74 is still an excellent radio. I “only” have a D74 and while I admit I would like to play with some of the new features of the D75, there isn’t anything the D75 has that makes me want to trade in my D74….for now 😉

Kenwood TH-D75A
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That wraps up the Top 10 Best Handheld Ham Radios, with a few bonus radios. I hope you found one that fits your needs and budget!

Editor's note for 2025: Every year, I go through all the reviews and update/correct information to make sure I bring you the most current and relevant information. If you find something that I missed, please either send me a message using the contact form, or leave a comment below, and I will correct it ASAP. I work hard to give you accurate information, but there is an enormous amount of information on this site so I do, occasionally, make mistakes (ask my wife).

 

Understanding Spurious Emissions in Ham Radio: What You Need to Know

spurious emissions

I’ve been tinkering with radios for over three decades now, and if there’s one topic that consistently causes confusion among newcomers, it’s spurious emissions. When I recently saw a question from someone who purchased a Baofeng AR-RM5 and was puzzled by YouTube reviewers criticizing its “spurious emissions” without explaining what they are, I realized this is a perfect opportunity to clear things up.

Let me break this down in plain language that won’t require an engineering degree to understand. I’ll share what I’ve learned through years of experience, testing various radios, and yes, occasionally making mistakes along the way. I do however, want to be very clear, this is my experience and what I think to be true, I am not a radio frequency engineer, and am more than imperfect (ask the wife). I put this information out here to help guide you but I urge you to do your own research and come to your own conclusions.

What Are Spurious Emissions?

Spurious emissions are essentially unwanted radio frequency signals that your transmitter produces outside of the intended frequency. Think of it like this: when you key up your radio to transmit on 146.52 MHz, that’s your intended frequency. But if your radio is also simultaneously transmitting weaker signals on other frequencies—like around 293 MHz (which is 146.52 × 2) or 439.56 MHz (146.52 × 3)—those are spurious emissions.

I’ve tested dozens of radios over the years, and I can tell you that every radio produces some level of spurious emissions. The difference is in how much. Higher quality radios typically produce far fewer unwanted emissions than cheaper models.

These unwanted signals are sometimes called “birdies” or “spurs” by ham radio operators. They’re not a feature—they’re a flaw in the radio’s design or construction that causes it to transmit where it shouldn’t.

Why Should You Care About Spurious Emissions?

When I first got into ham radio, I didn’t understand why people made such a fuss about spurious emissions. After all, if my friends could hear me and I could hear them, what’s the problem?

Well, there are several reasons why spurious emissions matter:

  1. Interference with other electronics: Your radio’s unwanted emissions could, in theory, land on frequencies used by emergency services, air traffic control, or other critical communications. Although widely circulated as a real threat, the reality is that unless you are standing in the Police dispatch center when you key up your Baofeng, you are highly unlikely to do this. You could, however, interfere with electronic devices in your local area. Think 20-50 meters from your transmit location at most.
  2. Easier direction finding: If you’re transmitting on multiple frequencies simultaneously, it becomes much easier for someone to locate you using direction-finding techniques. This is particularly relevant if you’re using radio for emergency preparedness or situations where you’d prefer not to be easily tracked.
  3. Reduced efficiency: When your radio is wasting energy transmitting on frequencies you don’t intend to use, it’s less efficient. This can affect battery life and overall performance.
  4. Legal compliance: The FCC has specific regulations about spurious emissions. According to 47 CFR § 97.307, “All spurious emissions from a station transmitter must be reduced to the greatest extent practicable.” There are specific technical requirements that vary based on frequency and when the transmitter was manufactured.

I once had a cheap radio that caused interference with my neighbor’s television whenever I transmitted. Not exactly the way to maintain neighborly relations! A cleaner radio solved the problem immediately.

How Bad Emissions Affect Radio Performance

In my experience testing various radios, those with excessive spurious emissions often exhibit other performance issues as well. Here’s what I’ve observed:

Reduced Range and Clarity

Radios with high spurious emissions typically don’t perform as well in terms of range and clarity. When your radio is wasting power transmitting on unwanted frequencies, that’s energy not going into your intended transmission.

I’ve done side-by-side tests with a high-quality Yaesu and a budget Baofeng, and the difference in range was noticeable even though both claimed the same output power. The cleaner radio consistently outperformed the “dirty” one.

Think of it this way; you have a garden hose with a spray head on it. When you pull the handle, it sprays a stream of water out the head, that is you transmitting on 146.520. Someone comes along and stabs the water hose the spray head is connected to with a nail, what happens to the signal (the stream coming out of the head)? The more nails, and the larger the nails, the weaker the stream coming out of the head.

Where I see people really ignoring, or not considering the implications of this, are with preppers, or people who just want a radio for “emergency” use. In my view, if the radio is a piece of “emergency” gear, it needs to work well. Would you go to Walmart and get the cheapest tires that fit your Jeep? Is your bug out bag a plastic Dollar General bag? Is your survival knife something you picked up off Temu?

I don’t know about you, but if I need to communicate in an emergency, I want as close to 100% of the power I am transmitting to be on the frequency that people might hear me and help me.

Battery Life Implications

Your radio’s battery has to power all transmissions—both the ones you want and the spurious ones you don’t. More spurious emissions mean more wasted power, which translates to reduced battery life.

This became crystal clear to me during a weekend camping trip where my friend’s cleaner radio lasted nearly twice as long as my cheaper unit, despite similar usage patterns.

Potential for Equipment Damage

Excessive spurious emissions can potentially lead to premature failure of components in your radio. When a radio is working harder than it should be (by generating unwanted emissions), it can generate more heat and stress internal components. In addition, a dirty signal is like a fever in humans, it is indicitive of cheap (not just inexpensive) electronics and it is highly unlikely that the part of the unit responsible for generating that signal (or not filtering it) is the only sub-standard component in a radio.

These same cheap internal components are unlikely to be resistant to spurious signals, which makes them more likely to feed back on themselves, induce electrical charges where their should not be any (or over and above what should be there), etc. Overall, it is just really bad for everything your radio does.

I’ve had two budget radios fail after about a year of regular use, while some of my higher-quality units have been going strong for over a decade.

This doesn’t mean all radios that generate spurious emissions will fail quickly, it just means they are much more likely to.

How to Identify a “Dirty” Radio

Without specialized test equipment, it can be challenging to measure spurious emissions precisely. However, there are some indicators that might suggest your radio has excessive unwanted emissions:

  1. Interference with nearby electronics: If keying up your radio causes static on nearby speakers, interference with TV reception, or strange behavior from other electronic devices, that’s a red flag.
  2. Heating issues: While all radios generate some heat during transmission, excessive or unusual heating patterns might indicate inefficiency related to spurious emissions.
  3. Poor battery life: If your radio’s battery drains unusually quickly during transmit operations compared to similar models, spurious emissions could be a contributing factor.
  4. Research and reviews: Before purchasing a radio, check reviews from reputable sources that actually test for spurious emissions. Many budget radios have been thoroughly tested by ham radio enthusiasts with proper equipment.
  5. Test it yourself: An inexpensive tool such as the $60 TinySA spectrum analyzer, can test all your handheld radios and show you first hand how they perform. Don’t forget to get an attenuator to lower the sigal strength before hooking it up to your radio or you will probably blow the TinySA up.

I’ve learned to trust certain reviewers who take the time to actually measure a radio’s performance rather than just unboxing it and giving subjective opinions. Or worse yet, websites that post “reviews” in which you can tell they never actually owned or used that radio at all.

Looking at the image above, you can see the tallest peak on the left, that is the frequency set on the radio when you transmit and in this case 146.520Mhz. The horizontal red line at -60 is the point at which all spurious emissions should be below. Note in this test, there are three obvious emissions that are too high, and actually there is a fourth that just barely tops the line. Which radio is this? A Baofeng K68.

You might be wondering what a good radio’s test looks like, and that is shown here. Note there is only one emission touching the -60 line which indicates this is an excellent radio. Which radio? A Yaesu FT3DR.

Legal Implications of Using “Dirty” Radios

Using a radio with excessive spurious emissions isn’t just a technical issue—it has legal implications as well. The FCC takes interference seriously, especially when it affects critical services.

FCC Regulations on Spurious Emissions

The FCC has specific requirements regarding spurious emissions for amateur radio equipment. According to 47 CFR § 97.307:

  • For transmitters operating below 30 MHz installed after January 1, 2003, spurious emissions must be at least 43 dB below the fundamental emission.
  • For transmitters operating between 30-225 MHz, spurious emissions must be at least 60 dB below the fundamental emission.
  • For lower power transmitters (25W or less), different standards apply, but emissions still need to be controlled.

These aren’t just suggestions—they’re legal requirements for operating in the amateur radio service.

Potential Consequences

If your radio’s spurious emissions cause harmful interference to other services, you could face:

  1. Warnings and notices: The FCC might issue a warning or notice of violation.
  2. Fines: In more serious cases, monetary penalties could be imposed.
  3. License issues: Repeated violations could potentially affect your amateur radio license.

I know a ham operator who received a notice from the FCC after his poorly adjusted amplifier caused interference with a neighbor’s electronic equipment. It wasn’t a pleasant experience, and it could have been avoided with better equipment and practices.

Realities with a handheld radio

While using a radio with too much spurious emissions may indeed be illegal, the odds of you actually having someone find out and do something about it are extremely slim. In my opinion however, it isn’t really worth the risk, and I am not personally going to break the law just because I won’t get caught. That isn’t how I was raised.

Are All Budget Radios “Dirty”?

This is where I want to clear up a common misconception. Not all inexpensive radios produce excessive spurious emissions, and not all expensive radios are perfectly clean.

I’ve tested several budget-friendly radios that performed surprisingly well in terms of spectral purity. Conversely, I’ve seen some pricier models that didn’t live up to expectations.

That said, there is generally a correlation between price and quality. Higher-end radios from reputable manufacturers typically invest more in filtering and circuit design to minimize unwanted emissions. Well extablished brands such as Kenwood, Yaesu, and Alinco will almost always be consistantly better than cheaper alternatives.

The key is to research specific models rather than making assumptions based solely on price or brand. Some newer Baofeng models, for instance, have improved significantly compared to their earlier counterparts.

Improving Your Radio’s Emissions

If you already own a radio with less-than-ideal spurious emissions, there are some steps you can take to mitigate the issues:

  1. Use lower power settings: Operating at lower power levels often reduces the intensity of spurious emissions.
  2. Add external filtering: In some cases, external bandpass filters can help clean up your signal.
  3. Proper grounding: When using a mobile or base setup, ensure your station is properly grounded.
  4. Antenna considerations: A well-matched antenna system can sometimes help reduce certain types of unwanted emissions.

I’ve had good results using a simple bandpass filter with some of my budget radios, significantly cleaning up their output at the cost of a slight reduction in power. Keep in mind that this will reduce intereference and the emissions from being received by other equipment, but it does not solve the performance issues that a radio generating spurious emissions will have.

Making Informed Choices

When selecting a radio, consider how you’ll be using it and what level of performance you need:

  • For casual use where absolute performance isn’t critical, a budget radio might be perfectly adequate.
  • For emergency communications or situations where reliability is paramount, investing in a cleaner radio is worthwhile.
  • If you’re operating near sensitive equipment or in densely populated areas, cleaner emissions become more important.

I keep both types in my collection—high-quality radios for serious use and a few budget options for situations where loss or damage is more likely.

Conclusion

Spurious emissions are a reality in all radio equipment, but excessive levels can cause problems ranging from reduced performance to legal issues. Understanding what they are and why they matter helps you make informed decisions about your radio equipment.

My personal opinion is that spectral purity matters more in some situations, such as emergency communications or network operations, and less when rag chewing with your buddies on the repeater. Whatever your budget or use case, being aware of spurious emissions and their implications will make you a more responsible and most importantly, more effective radio operator.

Have you experienced issues with spurious emissions from your radio? Or have you found a particularly clean budget radio? I’d love to hear about your experiences in the comments below!

Sangean ATS-909X2 Multi-Band Radio Receiver Review

Sangean01

The Sangean ATS-909X2 is billed as the “ultimate” radio receiver and while I am not quite sure that is the case, it certainly is at the very top end of the portable multi-band receiver market today. You are going to be hard-pressed to find a radio with better capabilities and features that you can still call portable, for any amount of money.

The first two things I noticed when I pulled it from the box are that the Sangean ATS-909X2 is beautiful and hefty. This is not a pocket radio by any stretch of the imagination. A quick measurement shows it comes in at about 8″ x 5.25″ x 1.5″ and weighs just over 1 pound and 13 ounces loaded with Energizer Max AA batteries. This means it feels weighty (in a good way) in the hand, and sits well on the desk no matter where you point the fully extended telescopic antenna.

This brings me to my first very minor complaint, when sitting on the desk, the rubber contact points and plastic of the stand offer no real grip which can allow the Sangean ATS-909X2 to slide around a little too much for my liking. I would like to see some rubber added to the stand which has a little grip to keep the unit where I put it. I noticed the problem the first time I tried to use the Sangean ATS-909X2’s tuning dial on the front without holding the radio, that didn’t work very well. Adding the rubber to the stand would also help keep the sound from traveling into whatever the radio is sitting on.

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Basic Reception and Audio Quality

Turning on the Sangean ATS-909X2 for the first time had me tuning to my favorite test FM radio station, 106.9 The Eagle in Houston (Splendora transmitter), about 50 miles south-east of here. Tuning to this station from inside my metal-roofed house sitting in the middle of a thicket of 100’+ pine trees has always been my go-to choice for testing FM reception of a radio, and the Sangean ATS-909X2 didn’t disappoint. With the telescoping antenna fully extended the signal was clear and strong, and even the RDS came in (although receiving the RDS in my house varies by time of day and placement of the Sangean ATS-909X2).

I was also impressed by the audio quality of the Sangean ATS-909X2 which sounded better than the size of the speaker seemed to suggest it would. This made me wonder how much the sound quality would improve if I took the speaker out of the equation so I used the line out jack to connect it to a Marshall Kilburn portable speaker. It worked wonderfully and I was very impressed. Taking it one step further and plugging that jack into my stereo’s input revealed extremely good audio quality, far above anything I expected from a portable radio.

That first evening was spent just listening to the Sangean ATS-909X2 playing that one radio station with a smile on my face. Seems like a waste of the capabilities of this little radio, but sometimes it doesn’t take a ton of features to make you smile.

Controls and Display

Before we get too far into the weeds talking about performance, reception, signal drift, and all those other technical points I want to cover the controls and layout of the Sangean ATS-909X2. The LCD is huge compared to most other radios I have used and the quality of the display is excellent. It clearly shows a ton of information without having to press a bunch of buttons to see what you want to see. The backlight is good and even and has multiple levels of brightness to fit most situations.

One interesting thing about the LCD is that if you look at it straight on, or angled from the left, right, or bottom, the screen is clear and easy to read. Reading the Sangean ATS-909X2’s screen from above, however, causes the text to fade out at some points and be very difficult if not impossible to see. If you stand the radio up this can be a problem as you look down on it to read the display. Using the built-in stand completely eliminates this issue and has the added benefit of making the radio easier to use. Oddly enough, I get better reception with the Sangean ATS-909X2 when it is leaning back on its stand instead of sitting upright so it is obvious it was designed to be used this way.

The LCD has a backlight but no contrast adjustment but the default seems fine. The Sangean ATS-909X2 displays a wealth of information on the screen and pressing the INFO button at the bottom of the keypad brings up lots of technical information. If I had to have a complaint here it would be that the signal meter on the far right of the screen seems like it is there more to have some bouncy action on the screen rather than actually being useful. The Sangean ATS-909X2 seems to think almost every signal is full strength. Yeah, I don’t really use a signal strength meter on an SW radio either but I found it a little funny.

The buttons on the Sangean ATS-909X2 feel nice and solid, providing a good tactile click when used. Not such a harsh click that it feels annoying or cheap, but a nice soft click that feels controlled and well done. On the front of the radio is a rotary dial for tuning which does the job well enough but doesn’t quite exude the quality feel of the buttons. It isn’t bad, it feels pretty smooth, but when compared to the quality of the buttons it just falls a tiny bit short.

On the right side is the volume knob and this is probably the one place they should have paid more attention to as it feels pretty cheap. I would suggest they add some grooves or other methods of grip as it is perfectly smooth and fairly tight. This knob also works just fine, it is just a fit and finish issue that for a radio in the price range of the Sangean ATS-909X2 I feel should be addressed. If we were talking about a $50 radio I really wouldn’t care.

It is interesting to note that the Sangean ATS-909X2 has some kind of control on every side except the back (although there is a switch in the battery compartment). This allows for some logical grouping such as having all the time-related functions on the top, tuning functions on the front, input/output on the left side, and audio/misc on the right. While these are not absolute grouping because there are exceptions, it does make it much easier to remember where certain things are.

One of the neat features is their ATS system which scans the band you are on and automatically saves the strong signals it finds in the memory of the Sangean ATS-909X2. I have seen this on far cheaper radios so I was curious as to how it works here. Simply put, the same. Just like on my other radios it found and stored every FM radio station perfectly. The ones it missed, I wouldn’t actually want to listen to anyway as the signal was terrible.

For SW (and I am lumping in MW and LW here too), the Sangean ATS-909X2 did exactly what my other radios with this feature did, and exactly what it does on FM, but the results are less than favorable. The Sangean ATS-909X2 found and stored every strong signal on whatever band I put it on. The problem is that either that signal was just garbage, or had no one there when I got around to listening to it. This isn’t a fault with the radio at all, it is just the way it is when dealing with SW.

Ports

One of the really nice features of the Sangean ATS-909X2 is that it has a large number of ports allowing you to extend the capabilities of the radio far beyond radios without these ports.

Let’s start with power as you can power the device from either AA batteries or the provided AC adapter. While that might not be that uncommon, one thing that did get my attention is that the power supply included with the Sangean ATS-909X2 does not seem to introduce any noise into the received signal. That may sound like one of those things that should be a given but a lot of radios that can run off AC power do so with a noisy AC adapter. I have never really understood this, but it nice to see Sangean didn’t cheap out here.

The AM external antenna jack is a welcome port as it vastly increases the signals you can hear and uses a standard 1/8″ or 3.5mm jack. Not only does this fit the cool little reel antenna included with the Sangean ATS-909X2 but is also common with other portable antennas. I even have a 3.5mm adapter for my big dipole antenna I use with my Kenwood TS-570D Amateur Radio Transceiver so I can use that antenna to receive on my shortwave sets.

Next up is the aux-in port which allows me to add a different source of input to my Sangean ATS-909X2. There is also a button to turn on and off this input. Honestly, I don’t use this and can not really imagine why you would want to. Maybe that is just me.

Below that are the standby and line-out jacks which allow you to take an excellent audio signal out of the Sangean ATS-909X2 and input it into another device such as an external speaker, recording device, or even a computer. As I talked about earlier this is a feature I really like and have had great success using. While the speaker in the Sangean ATS-909X2 is very good, sometimes you need something better, either because you want to get more enjoyment out of your music, or because having a higher quality speaker makes hearing faint signals easier. The latter is the reason so many amateur radio operators use external speakers or headphones (that’s my choice) for working DX.

When I first started playing with the Sangean ATS-909X2 I turned it over in my hand over and over looking for where to put the micro-SD card for recording. I honestly don’t use this feature very much, but I do like to record things on occasion and there is just no way to do that on the Sangean ATS-909X2 without an external recording device. This blows my mind because even my $23 Retekess V115 has a micro-SD slot and can do that.

On the bottom of the left side is the headphone jack and it does exactly what you think it does, providing good quality audio allowing you to listen with a set of earbuds like the ones included or higher quality headphones. I tried several different types of devices here ranging from my own earbuds to small walkman style on-ear headphones all the way up to my over-the-ear Audio-Technica studio headphones. Every one of my tests gave me excellent quality audio out of the Sangean ATS-909X2.

Reception

With a radio at this price range, this is really where the rubber meets the road. No matter how many bells and whistles a radio has, no matter how good the build quality is, if the reception stinks, the radio is junk. So how did the Sangean ATS-909X2 do? In a word, excellent.

Is it as good as my Kenwood TS-570D? Ummmm, no. But the Sangean ATS-909X2 is remarkably close considering it is portable and a fraction of the cost. I guess my point here is that there are better receivers, but I have not actually used one that was significantly better without sacrificing something serious to get there. In other words, it is a fantastic receiver for what it is.

My only gripes with the Sangean ATS-909X2‘s reception is that the frequencies are off a bit in the lower sideband. Not enough to cause the level of hysteria I have read about other people online having, but enough that I think it should be fixed on a radio costing this much.

If you are trying to be exacting for whatever reason, then the Sangean ATS-909X2 may not be the radio for you. I personally don’t understand that logic as radio reception frequencies can vary considerably depending on distance and how the signal propagates so why the big freak-out if the radio isn’t exact? For me, it is close enough. I mean if the spotter says there is a 40m signal coming from Japan on 7.076mhz and I get there and that isn’t where the signal is, two seconds worth of tuning up and down will get me on it. Big whoop.

Should the Sangean ATS-909X2 be accurate? Yes. Is it far enough off to cause a problem? Well for some people I guess so, but not for me.

Tuning to a frequency with the Sangean ATS-909X2 is simple using a variety of methods including directly inputting the frequency using the F key and then number keys, or using the tuning knob, and/or using the band keys (the number keys used in conjunction with the band key). I really liked being able to directly enter a starting frequency using the number keys and then using the Sangean ATS-909X2’s tuning dial on the front to get where I wanted to go.

When testing the Sangean ATS-909X2 against other SW radios I have the signal seems to hold at least as well as my best receivers, and better than most. Overall, a fine receiver.

The Manual

The manual included with the Sangean ATS-909X2 is probably better than most as it covers just about anything you would want to do with the radio, assuming you know what you want to do. What I mean by that is that it is very dry and to the point. On the first page of information past the diagrams of the controls, it says “Radio for Air / FM / LW / MW / SW broadcasts”. What if you are a newcomer to anything beyond a standard AM/FM radio and have no idea what LW, MW, or SW actually is? Time to hit Google.

To be fair, the information in the manual is in perfect English and is clear and concise, exactly what someone with some experience with radios will want. I personally loved it, but I can see where people with less experience might have some questions about the Sangean ATS-909X2 that the manual just can not answer.

My manual for the Sangean ATS-909X2 appears to also be in French and Spanish but since I am not fluent in either of those languages I can only assume those translations are as good as the English version. If I am incorrect, leave a comment here and I will update this review to reflect that.

Included Accessories

In the box with the Sangean ATS-909X2 is a manual, warranty card, power supply, earbuds, a case, and an external antenna. All of the components appear to be of just as high quality as the radio and are packed very well.

The case for the Sangean ATS-909X2 was the first thing that caught my eye as it is not at all what I expected which was smooth, cheap, fake leather. Instead, the case is ribbed and much more grippy than I expected which I really appreciated since the radio has some weight. This makes sure your grip doesn’t fail, allowing the radio to fall to the ground. The inside of the case is a very soft cloth that protects the finish of your Sangean ATS-909X2. It stays closed with two velcro strips which hold quite well.

Overall the Sangean ATS-909X2 case provides an excellent balance of protection, grip, and light weight.

The earbuds shipped with the Sangean ATS-909X2 are more than sufficient but nothing special. I personally don’t like the style of them as they don’t fit in my ear very well but that is a very subjective issue. This poor fit means the sound quality is less than optimal, which again would vary considerably with someone whose ears these fit in better. The wires are also very thin making me fear they will not last long with any real kind of use.

The real treat with the accessories included with the Sangean ATS-909X2 is the portable shortwave reel antenna which is about 26′ long. Attached to the reel is a lanyard with a nicely designed clip making it easy to attach to a pole, ladder, tree limb, or another line. I have a string with a rather large fishing line attached to one end which I throw up into trees to allow me to pull up an antenna and it was easy to attach my line to the lanyard and pull this up into the top of a tree to improve my reception. I also tried pulling it horizontally along the ground and up into a tree at a 45 degree angle.

Each of my tests of the antenna had varied results depending on the band I was tuning and the signal strength of the station I was listening to but they all had one thing in common, a vast improvement over the telescoping antenna built into the Sangean ATS-909X2. Keep in mind that I was impressed with the reception of the telescoping antenna, it was clearly one of the best I have ever used, but like all telescoping antennas, it has limits that external antennas can easily beat. It sure was nice that they include a nice portable external antenna in the box.

Features and Specifications of the Sangean ATS-909X2

Features of the Sangean ATS-909X2:

  • 1674 station presets
  • Additional Airband (118~137MHz)
  • ATS (Auto Tuning System) on LW/MW/SW/FM
  • Five Tuning methods: Direct frequency tuning, auto scan, manual tuning, memory recall, and rotary tuning
  • A Larger LCD screen with adjustable LED backlight
  • Automatically search for the strongest signal station within SW station pages
  • 3 alarms by radio or HWS (Humane Wake System) buzzer
  • Built-in 42 world cities time + D.S.T. device with 2 editable city names
  • Automatic Bandwidth Control system
  • Information indications with RDS PS/PTY/RT, SNR, RSSI, Memory Bank
  • SSB (Single Side Band): USB / LSB 10Hz / step on fine-tuning
  • Squelch function can adjust the receiving threshold to eliminate weak transmissions
  • Adjustable sleep timer
  • Dual conversion device for MW / LW / SW/AIR
  • 3 individual Memory banks
  • 10 characters for editing station name on display
  • Fine-tuning control and Quick Shift Tuning
  • Smart battery charger can individually detect the healthy situation of each battery.
  • Tone control (Music / Normal / News)
  • Individual headphone amplifier
  • Signal and battery strength indicator
  • FM Softmute
  • Menu setting offer diversely functional settings

Specifications of the Sangean ATS-909X2:

 

 

TUNERFMFrequency (MHz) 87.5 – 108 / 76 – 108
 RDS / RBDSPS / PTY / RT / CT
 LWFrequency (kHz) 153 – 519(USA)/100-519KHZ
 MWFrequency (kHz) 520 – 1710
 SWFrequency (kHz) 1.711 – 29.999
 Meter Bands120, 90, 75, 60, 49, 41, 31, 25, 21, 19, 16, 15, 13, 11
 WEATHER Alert 
 AIR BAND(118M-137MHz)
TUNINGMemory Presets1539 (NO AIR) /1674
MEDIAAux – in 
CLOCKReal timeTime Dual (World / Home)
 AlarmTuner / Media / Buzzer x3 alarms
 SleepV
 SnoozeV
FEATUREStereoEarphones / Line Out
 RechargeableV
AUDIOSound EffectTreble / Bass Control – Music / Normal / News
OUTPUT POWER (TYPICAL)Output Power1.4W
 Earphones Output Power1mW*2
 Batteries Output Power0.65W
SPEAKERSize ( mm / inch )3 inches
 Impedance4 ohms
I/O SOCKETPowerDC in
 Aux – inV
 Line – outV
 EarphonesV
 Ext.AntennaSW
 OthersStandby out
POWER SUPPLYMains Power SupplyDC 9V / 1.2A
 Batteries (Main Power)4 x 1.5V (UM-3, AA)
ACCESSORIESPower Adapter 
 Earphones 
 Carrying Pouch 
 Reel AntennaANT-60
DIMENSIONSWidth (mm/inch)207.5 / 8.17
 Height (mm/inch)134.8 / 5.31
 Depth (mm/inch)41.3 / 1.63
 Weight (g & lb. oz)733.5 / 1lb. 9.9oz

The Bottom Line on the Sangean ATS-909X2

The big question about the Sangean ATS-909X2 is; is it worth the money? The short answer is an absolute yes. While it is not perfect, nothing ever is. It does provide a lot of bang for your money and has more than enough features and capabilities to keep you enjoying it for many years to come while the issues are, by and large, very minor.

For me, the Sangean ATS-909X2 has become a constant travel companion with a guaranteed spot in a bag every time I travel.

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DIY 450 Ohm Ladder Line J-Pole Slim Jim: Ultimate Portable Antenna

 

DIY Ladder Line J-Pole antenna

When you’re hiking through remote terrain or preparing for emergency communications, having a reliable yet compact antenna like the ladder line j-pole can make all the difference. I’ve experimented with numerous antenna designs over the years, but few match the versatility and performance of a homemade 450 ohm ladder line Slim Jim for the 2-meter band. This ingenious antenna offers impressive gain, omnidirectional coverage, and best of all, can be rolled up and tucked into your backpack when not in use.

The ladder line j-pole Slim Jim isn’t just another antenna – it’s an evolution of the classic J-pole design with significantly improved performance characteristics. After building several versions myself, I’ve consistently found it outperforms commercial alternatives costing ten times as much. The beauty lies in its simplicity: with about an hour of work and less than $20 in materials, you can create a highly effective portable antenna that will dramatically extend your communication range.

What makes this particular design special is its ability to focus radiation at a lower angle toward the horizon (where you actually need it) rather than wasting energy skyward. This translates to noticeably better performance in real-world conditions. I’ve personally used this antenna to make contacts over 15 miles away using just 500 milliwatts of power – quite impressive for such a simple homebrew project!

Whether you’re a licensed ham operator, a preparedness enthusiast, or simply someone who enjoys DIY radio projects, this roll-up antenna deserves a place in your communications toolkit. Let’s dive into the fascinating world of the Slim Jim and learn how to build one that you can take anywhere.

Understanding the Slim Jim Ladder Line J-Pole Design

The ladder line j-pole Slim Jim antenna represents a significant improvement over the traditional J-pole design that many ham operators are familiar with. The name itself is actually an acronym – “Slim” because it doesn’t require radials, and “JIM” stands for “J Integrated Match,” referring to the quarter-wave matching stub technique used in its design.

What sets the Slim Jim apart is its radiation pattern. While a standard J-pole radiates at approximately 30 degrees from the horizontal plane, the Slim Jim’s pattern is much lower – typically 8-10 degrees from horizontal. This means more of your signal travels where it’s needed most: along the ground toward distant stations rather than up toward the sky. This lower radiation angle effectively gives you about 6dB of gain in the horizontal plane compared to a J-pole.

The design consists of a half-wavelength radiator connected to a quarter-wave matching stub, with an additional parallel element that creates this improved radiation pattern. When properly constructed, the electromagnetic fields from both elements work in phase, pulling the radiation pattern downward and creating that desirable low-angle radiation. The result is significantly better performance for terrestrial communications.

Another advantage of this ladder line j-pole design is its impressive bandwidth. A well-built Slim Jim typically maintains a low VSWR (Voltage Standing Wave Ratio) across the entire 2-meter band and beyond. This means you’ll get excellent performance whether you’re operating on the low end (144 MHz) or high end (148 MHz) of the band without needing to retune.

Materials Needed for Your Portable Antenna

Before diving into construction, let’s gather everything you’ll need for this project. The beauty of this antenna is that it requires minimal materials, most of which can be found at local hardware stores or in your existing ham radio supplies:

  • 5 feet of 450 ohm ladder line (window line), you can get it by the foot at DX Engineering.
  • 1 or more feet of RG-58 or RG-8X coaxial cable (I like a 10′ roll with ends already on it).
  • One PL-259 connector (crimp or solder type) (unless you got the roll above)
  • Heat shrink tubing in various sizes
  • Solder and soldering iron
  • Wire cutters/strippers
  • Utility knife
  • Measuring tape (preferably with metric measurements)
  • Cable ties (various sizes)
  • Two screw-on wire connectors (optional for testing)
  • Multimeter for continuity testing
  • Connector cable with adapters for connecting to your handheld radio, here is an entire kit

For testing and tuning, you’ll also need:

  • An antenna analyzer if available (like MFJ-259B or RigExpert)
  • Or an SWR meter and transceiver, maybe portable one like the Gam3Gear SW-102s
  • A short coax jumper cable with connectors

The 450 ohm ladder line is the heart of this project. This specialized transmission line consists of two parallel wires separated by plastic spacers, creating a ladder-like appearance. It’s ideal for this application because it’s lightweight, flexible enough to roll up, yet rigid enough to maintain its shape when deployed.

When selecting your ladder line, look for quality construction with solid copper conductors rather than copper-clad aluminum or steel if you can find it. The better the materials, the more durable your ladder line j-pole portable antenna will be in field conditions and the better it will perform. Unfortunately, recently it has become more difficult to find solid copper ladder line so your options are limited. The difference between solid copper, CCA (copper clad aluminum), and CCS (copper clad steel) is microscopic compared to the difference between your stock antenna and this ladder line j-pole. The CCS from DX Engineering has worked well for me in the past.

Calculating the Dimensions

Getting the dimensions of the ladder line j-pole right is crucial for optimal performance of your Slim Jim antenna. The calculations depend on the operating frequency and the velocity factor of your ladder line. For a center frequency of 145 MHz (middle of the 2-meter band), here are the key measurements:

  1. Total length (A): Approximately 58-60 inches (147-152 cm)
  2. Long element length (B): About 38-39 inches (96-99 cm)
  3. Short element length (C): About 19-20 inches (48-51 cm)
  4. Gap size (E): 1 inch (2.5 cm)
  5. Feed point location: Approximately 3-4 inches (7.6-10.2 cm) from the bottom

These measurements assume a velocity factor of approximately 0.9 (90%) for typical 450 ohm ladder line. If you know the exact velocity factor of your specific ladder line, you can calculate more precise dimensions using these formulas:

Total Length (A) = (3/4 wavelength × velocity factor) + gap size
Long Element (B) = 1/2 wavelength × velocity factor
Short Element (C) = 1/4 wavelength × velocity factor

Where wavelength in free space = 300 ÷ frequency in MHz (for 145 MHz, that’s 2.07 meters)

Remember that these calculations give you a starting point. The final tuning will be done experimentally to achieve the lowest possible VSWR at your desired operating frequency. I’ve found that building the ladder line j-pole antenna slightly longer than calculated and then trimming it down works better than trying to add length later.

You can also use the ladder line j-pole calculator from M0UKD instead of doing all the math yourself 😉

Step-by-Step Construction Process

ladder line j-pole antenna

Now let’s build our ladder line j-pole antenna, following a methodical approach that ensures success. I’ll walk you through each step based on my experience building several of these antennas:

  1. Measure and cut your ladder line to the total length calculated earlier (approximately 58-60 inches for 145 MHz).
  2. At both ends of the ladder line, carefully strip about 1/2 inch of insulation from both conductors. Use a utility knife to gently score around the insulation before pulling it off to avoid damaging the copper wires.
  3. At one end (which will be the top of your antenna), bend the exposed conductors toward each other and solder them together to form a loop. This creates the top of your Slim Jim.
  4. At the other end (bottom), do the same thing – strip, bend, and solder the conductors together.
  5. Measure up approximately 19-20 inches from the bottom soldered connection and mark this point on one side of the ladder line only.
  6. At this marked point, carefully cut and remove a 1-inch section of one conductor only, creating the gap in your Slim Jim. Be careful not to damage the plastic spacers or the other conductor.
  7. Measure up approximately 3-4 inches from the bottom and strip about 2 inches of insulation from both conductors. This will be your feed point area where you’ll connect the coaxial cable.

Your basic Slim Jim structure is now complete! The next steps involve preparing and attaching the feed line, which we’ll cover in the next section. Take your time with these initial steps – precision here will pay off with better performance later.

Attaching the Feedline

The feed point connection is critical for proper antenna performance. This is where your coaxial cable connects to the ladder line. Here’s how to create a reliable connection:

  1. Take your piece of coaxial cable (RG-58 or RG-8X) and carefully prepare one end by removing about 1.5 inches of the outer jacket.
  2. Separate the shield (braid) from the center conductor and dielectric. Twist the shield strands together to form a single “wire.”
  3. Strip about 1/2 inch of insulation from the center conductor.
  4. Connect the center conductor to the long side of the Slim Jim (the side without the gap) at approximately 3-4 inches from the bottom.
  5. Connect the shield to the short side (the side with the gap) at approximately the same height.

These connections can be temporary at first for testing purposes. You can use alligator clips or screw-on wire connectors to allow for adjustments during the tuning process. Once you’ve found the optimal feed point position, you’ll make permanent soldered connections.

For a truly portable antenna, you can create a detachable feed line. This allows you to roll up the antenna more compactly. You can accomplish this by installing small binding posts or banana jacks at the feed point, with a matching connector on your coax cable. I prefer the permanent solder connection though as I have less of a chance of poor connections. This can be

Remember that the feed point location significantly affects the antenna’s impedance match. The typical starting point is 3-4 inches from the bottom, but you may need to move it up or down to achieve the best VSWR for your specific operating frequency.

Tuning for Optimal Performance

Tuning your ladder line j-pole Slim Jim is where the magic happens – transforming a piece of ladder line into a high-performance antenna. Here’s my approach to getting the best possible performance:

  1. Connect your antenna analyzer or SWR meter to the feed line. If using an SWR meter, set your radio to low power (5 watts or less).
  2. With the antenna hanging vertically and away from metal objects, check the VSWR across the 2-meter band (144-148 MHz).
  3. If the lowest VSWR point is below your desired operating frequency, your antenna is too long. If it’s above your desired frequency, your antenna is too short.
  4. To adjust, try moving the feed point up or down the ladder line j-pole in small increments (1/4 inch at a time). Moving the feed point higher generally lowers the resonant frequency, while moving it lower raises the frequency.
  5. If moving the feed point doesn’t achieve a satisfactory match, you may need to adjust the overall length. For a too-long antenna, trim small amounts (1/4 inch) from the top loop.

The goal is to achieve a VSWR of 1.5:1 or better across your operating range. A well-tuned Slim Jim can often achieve 1.2:1 or better at the center frequency, with excellent bandwidth across the entire 2-meter band.

During tuning, keep the antenna at least a half-wavelength (about 1 meter) away from metal objects, as these can affect the measurements. Also, hold the coax away from the antenna at a 90-degree angle for at least a quarter wavelength to minimize interaction.

If you want to understand more about tuning, check out my article on How To Tune an Antenna.

Making Your Ladder Line J-Pole Antenna Truly Portable

To transform your ladder line j-pole Slim Jim into a genuinely portable antenna that can be packed away in a backpack, we need to add a few finishing touches:

  1. Once you’ve found the optimal feed point, solder the connections permanently and reinforce them with heat shrink tubing to protect against moisture and mechanical stress.
  2. Add strain relief for the coax connection using cable ties or tape to prevent pulling directly on the soldered joints.
  3. At the top of the antenna, create a hanging point by drilling a small hole through the plastic portion of the ladder line and threading a nylon cord or strong fishing line through it.
  4. For field deployment, I recommend carrying a small length of paracord and a fishing weight. This allows you to throw the line over a tree branch and hoist your antenna up quickly.

When rolling up your antenna for storage, coil it gently in large loops (8-10 inches diameter) rather than tight bends to prevent stressing the ladder line. A simple Velcro strap can keep it neatly bundled in your pack.

For rapid deployment, consider marking the optimal hanging height on your support cord. I typically aim to get the bottom of the antenna at least 10 feet off the ground for best performance, though higher is generally better.

This roll-up design is perfect for backpackers, emergency communications, or anyone who needs a highly effective portable antenna that can be deployed in minutes and packed away just as quickly.

Field Testing and Real-World Performance

I’ve put several versions of this portable ladder line j-pole Slim Jim through extensive field testing, and the results have consistently impressed me. Here’s what you can expect in real-world conditions:

When properly tuned and elevated, this antenna significantly outperforms stock rubber duck antennas on handheld transceivers. In my tests, I’ve seen 3-4 S-units improvement in signal strength compared to the stock antenna – that’s potentially a 24dB gain!

The omnidirectional pattern makes this antenna ideal for general communications where you need to reach stations in any direction. Despite being omnidirectional, the low radiation angle means your signal travels farther along the ground rather than up into the sky.

In one memorable test, I was able to access a repeater 15 miles away using just 500 milliwatts (0.5 watts) with this antenna mounted about 15 feet high. With a stock rubber duck antenna, I couldn’t hit the same repeater even at full power (5 watts).

For ARES/RACES emergency communications, this ladder line j-pole antenna has proven invaluable. Its quick deployment and excellent performance make it perfect for establishing communications when infrastructure is damaged or unavailable.

The bandwidth is impressive as well – typically maintaining a VSWR under 1.5:1 across the entire 2-meter band. This means you can operate anywhere in the band without worrying about excessive reflected power.

One limitation to be aware of: like all antennas, the Slim Jim performs best when elevated and clear of obstacles. Try to get it at least 10 feet off the ground and away from metal objects for optimal performance.

Conclusion

The 450 ohm ladder line Slim Jim represents one of the best values in portable antenna design. For minimal cost and about an hour of work, you can create a highly effective antenna that dramatically outperforms commercial options costing much more.

What makes this ladder line j-pole antenna particularly valuable for hikers, emergency communicators, and preparedness enthusiasts is its combination of excellent performance and packability. When not in use, it rolls up to fit easily in a backpack pocket, yet deploys quickly when needed.

I encourage you to build one of these antennas and experiment with it in the field. The satisfaction of making contacts through equipment you’ve built yourself adds another dimension to the ham radio experience. Plus, understanding how to construct effective antennas from readily available materials is an invaluable skill for emergency situations.

Remember that antenna experimentation is at the heart of amateur radio. Don’t be afraid to modify this design to suit your specific needs or try different materials. Each iteration will teach you something new about antenna theory and performance.

I should also mention this ladder line j-pole antenna can be adjusted to work on just about any frequency range, and can be used for only receiving as well as transmitting. This makes it an excellent choice even for transmitting on radio services other than ham radio, or scanning public service frequencies.

Happy building, and I hope this ladder line j-pole portable antenna serves you well on your outdoor adventures and communications endeavors!

QRP Ham Radio: Why Less Power Brings More Operating Fun

QRP ham radio is basically about doing more with less. Instead of seeing a 5-watt power limit as a handicap, QRP operators turn it into an exciting challenge. This approach to ham radio has been around since the early 1920s, attracting operators who love making contacts with minimal power—sometimes as low as 100 milliwatts or even less.

You might wonder how anyone could make contacts with such tiny power levels when most standard rigs pump out 100 watts or more. The answer is simple. QRP operators focus on optimizing every part of their station—from antennas to operating technique. I’ve seen operators work stations thousands of miles away using less power than it takes to run a nightlight!

QRP operation really shines during emergency situations. When the power grid goes down and you’re running on batteries, every watt counts. That’s why organizations like ARRL recognize the value of QRP—during Field Day, QRP contacts are worth five times as many points as those made with standard power.

For many hams like myself, the appeal goes beyond just practical considerations. There’s something deeply satisfying about building a simple radio with your own hands and then using it to talk to someone across the country. Not surprisingly, over 70% of Summits on the Air activations in North America use CW mode, which works great with QRP power levels.

Groups like the QRP Amateur Radio Club International keep the spirit alive by offering awards such as the “thousand-miles-per-watt” achievement. This encourages operators to push what’s possible with minimal resources—and believe me, the results can be astonishing.

Is QRP easy? Definitely not. It requires patience, skill, and sometimes a bit of luck with band conditions. But that’s exactly why it’s so rewarding. When you make that contact with someone 2,000 miles away using just 5 watts, you’ll understand why so many of us are hooked on QRP.

In this article, I’ll walk you through why QRP operation might be the most fun you’ll have in ham radio, what equipment works best for low-power operation, and the techniques that will help you succeed on the air with minimal watts.

What Does QRP Mean in Ham Radio?

Ever wonder where that term “QRP” actually comes from? Like many aspects of ham radio, it’s rooted in the practical needs of early radio operators. The term comes from the Q codes that operators used extensively back in the days when everything was sent via Morse code.

Origin of the QRP Code in Morse Communication

In the early days of radio, operators needed shortcuts to communicate effectively using Morse code. Imagine trying to type out “Could you please reduce your transmitter power as your signal is overloading my receiver?” using just dots and dashes! Instead, they could simply send “QRP?” as a question meaning “Shall I reduce power?” or “QRP” as a command meaning “Reduce power.”

This simple code saved time and effort when every character had to be tapped out by hand. As radio technology evolved through the mid-20th century, the meaning of QRP gradually shifted. I remember reading in some old ham magazines from the 1970s that QRP initially meant any operation using less than 100 watts when transistors were still new technology. Over time, the definition narrowed down to what we accept today.

What fascinates me about QRP’s evolution is how it transformed from a simple request to reduce power into an entire operating philosophy centered on using minimal power by choice rather than necessity.

Standard Power Limits for CW and SSB Modes

These days, the ham radio community has pretty much standardized what counts as QRP operation. If you ask most operators or check the rules for QRP contests, you’ll find QRP defined as:

  • 5 watts or less output power for CW (Morse code), AM, FM, and digital modes
  • 10 watts PEP (peak envelope power) or less for SSB (single sideband) voice communications

Not everyone agrees with these limits, though. I’ve been in some heated discussions with operators who insist that 5 watts should be the standard across all modes. The American Radio Relay League (ARRL) officially supports the 5W/10W split standard, which has become the benchmark for QRP contests and award programs globally.

For those really looking to challenge themselves, there’s even “QRPp” – operating with less than 1 watt of power. Just imagine making a contact thousands of miles away using less power than a keychain flashlight!

Here’s something many new operators don’t realize – dropping from 100 watts to 5 watts only reduces your signal by about two S-units on the other end. That’s not as dramatic as it might seem. In practical terms, it means if someone is hearing you at S9 with 100 watts, they’ll still hear you at S7 with 5 watts – perfectly readable under good conditions.

The QRP Amateur Radio Club International uses these power definitions (5W CW/digital and 10W SSB) as the official standards for their contests and awards programs. These standardized definitions make it possible to have fair competition in QRP-specific contest categories while creating clear benchmarks for achievement awards like the thousand-miles-per-watt honor.

Interestingly, these limits align perfectly with the fundamental amateur radio principle in FCC Part 97.67(b), which states that stations “shall use the minimum amount of transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.” In many ways, QRP operators are simply taking this principle to its logical conclusion.

Why Use Less Power? The Philosophy Behind QRP

QRP image 1

Image Source: Q R P e r

There’s something deeply satisfying about making contacts with minimal power. Beyond just the technical definition of “5 watts or less,” QRP represents a distinct philosophy that emphasizes skill over brute force. I’ve found this approach changes how I think about radio operation entirely.

FCC Part 97 and Minimum Power Rule

Did you know the FCC actually encourages minimalist operation? It’s true. Section 97.313(a) states that amateur stations “must use the minimum power necessary to carry out the desired communications”. While many hams gloss over this rule, QRP operators take it to heart. We don’t see this as a limitation but rather as a challenge to refine our skills.

I’ve always appreciated how the FCC recognizes the emergency communications aspect of amateur radio. Section 97.1 specifically highlights “providing emergency communications” as a primary purpose of our service. When you operate QRP, you’re not just having fun—you’re practicing skills that could prove crucial during disasters when power is limited.

Reducing Interference and Power Consumption

One thing I love about running QRP is that my neighbors never complain about TVI or other interference issues. As another operator once told me, “It’s a pretty rare occasion when operating with 5 W causes interference”. This makes QRP perfect for apartment dwellers or anyone in close quarters with neighbors.

The power savings might seem insignificant at first glance, but they add up. My electric bill certainly notices the difference between running 5 watts versus a full 1500-watt amplifier during contest weekends! Plus, transmitters typically last much longer when not pushed to their limits.

Emergency Communication and Battery Efficiency

Having been through several power outages in my area, I can tell you firsthand that battery efficiency becomes critical during emergencies. My QRP setup can run for days on a single deep-cycle battery, while friends with 100-watt rigs quickly find themselves without communication capabilities.

Many QRP radios offer multiple power settings—”10, 5, 2.5, 1 or 0.5 watts of power”—allowing you to tailor your output precisely to what’s needed. This flexibility is priceless when you’re operating off-grid.

The solar charging option works beautifully with QRP. I’ve powered my entire station with a modest solar panel during summer field operations. As one experienced operator notes, “Many hams charge them from solar arrays and a suitable regulator”, creating truly independent communications systems.

QRP operation is a lot like fishing with ultralight tackle. Sure, you could use heavy equipment and brute force, but where’s the skill in that? The real satisfaction comes from finesse and technique. I’ve made contacts from Florida to Japan running just 2 watts during good band conditions—an achievement that still gives me more pride than any high-power contact ever could.

Challenges and Techniques in Low Power Operation

QRP image 2

Image Source: FasterCapital

Let’s face it – operating QRP isn’t easy. When you’re running just 5 watts or less, you’re trading raw power for finesse and skill. While the big gun stations can blast through poor conditions with their 1,500 watts, we QRP operators need to develop specialized techniques to make successful contacts. It’s like bringing a fishing rod to a fishing tournament while everyone else shows up with nets and trawlers!

Signal-to-Noise Ratio in QRP Contacts

The biggest challenge in QRP operation is maintaining a good signal-to-noise ratio (SNR). Here’s an interesting fact – dropping from 100 watts to 5 watts reduces your signal strength by only 13dB, which is about 2 S-units on the receiver’s meter. If a 100-watt signal hits the other station at S8, your 5-watt signal would still be a respectable S5 or S6.

This difference might not seem like much when band conditions are excellent, but it becomes critical when you’re operating near the noise floor. I’ve had plenty of contacts where my signal was just barely above the noise, dancing right at the threshold of readability. As one operator puts it, “there is a threshold effect on HF where changes in power has a disproportional effect to your communications effectiveness”.

To overcome these challenges, QRP operators have developed some clever techniques using specialized modes:

In my experience, plain old CW (Morse code) remains the champion for QRP work. A single tone cuts through the noise much better than a voice signal, which spreads its energy across a wider frequency range. This is why I almost always reach for the key when operating QRP.

Importance of Operator Skill and Timing

When you’re limited to a few watts, your operating technique becomes absolutely crucial. I’ve found that listening is probably the most important skill you can develop. Before calling a DX station, I typically spend 5-10 minutes just observing: Is the operator working by call areas? Are they listening up or down? Do they have a pattern?

Timing your calls strategically makes a huge difference in your success rate. Instead of jumping in with the pack right after a CQ, I wait until that initial rush subsides. “When you hear that pause, slip your call in just once. That’s all you have time for”. This technique has helped me work some pretty rare DX that I had no business getting with 5 watts!

Using Skeds and Spotting Tools for Better Reach

Smart QRP operators use every advantage available. The VOACAP propagation prediction website is an incredible tool that helps identify the optimal times and frequencies for specific paths. By understanding propagation cycles—daily, seasonal, and solar—you can capitalize on band openings that make your tiny signal sound like a powerhouse.

Since QRP signals can easily get lost in the noise, dedicated spotting networks have emerged to help. These “QRP spotting Clusters” let you announce your frequency, mode, and equipment details, helping to concentrate attention from potential contacts.

Most QRP operators are also familiar with the QRP calling frequencies on each band, like 14.060 MHz for 20-meter CW. These frequencies create gathering points for like-minded operators, increasing your chances of making solid contacts with other low-power enthusiasts.

The bottom line is that QRP success depends less on your watts and more on your operating strategy: “With QRP you have to wait for the right moment and make your move. This means you must be alert and listening rather than transmitting”. In other words, QRP operation rewards patience and skill over brute force—which is exactly why I find it so satisfying!

QRP Equipment: From DIY Kits to Commercial Radios

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Image Source: Q R P e r

When it comes to QRP gear, you’ve got options ranging from dirt-cheap DIY kits to fancy commercial rigs that’ll cost you a pretty penny. This variety is actually one of the best things about QRP—you can get started for under sixty bucks or go all-in with premium equipment if that’s your thing.

Popular DIY Kits: QRP Labs QCX and BITX40

I’ve built several QRP kits over the years, and the QRP Labs QCX series stands head and shoulders above most others. These kits offer incredible bang for your buck. You can grab a single-band version (available for 160-17 meters) that pumps out about 3-5 watts depending on your power supply. The receive current is only 123mA—super efficient compared to commercial rigs. The QCX Mini version costs just $57.79, which is honestly ridiculous for what you get.

If you want to cover more bands, their QMX offers five bands with CW, digital, and SSB modes for $102.47. Another kit I’ve tinkered with is the BITX40, which is great if you like to modify and expand your radio after building it.

The best part about building kits isn’t even saving money—it’s understanding how your radio actually works. When something goes wrong (and something always does eventually), you’ll know exactly how to fix it because you put every component in place yourself. Plus, there’s just something deeply satisfying about making a contact on equipment you built with your own hands.

Commercial QRP Radios: Yaesu FT-818, Elecraft KX2

On the commercial side, the Yaesu FT-817/818 series has been around forever, and for good reason. The newer FT-818ND pumps out 6 watts (up from the original’s 5 watts) and costs around $650. It doesn’t have fancy touchscreens or modern bells and whistles, but it covers everything from 160 meters all the way through UHF and has both SO-239 and BNC antenna ports. This makes it insanely versatile for field operations.

For those with deeper pockets, the Elecraft KX3/KX2 is about half the size and weight of the FT-818 but delivers more punch—up to 12 watts on 80-20 meters and 10 watts on the higher bands. The battery efficiency is where the KX2 really shines though. It draws only 150mA on receive compared to the FT-818’s battery-hungry 400mA. That’s a huge difference when you’re operating portable.

Another option worth mentioning is the lab599 Discovery TX-500. This rugged little rig has been gaining popularity for its weatherproof design and excellent battery performance. In a recent QRP radio survey, it picked up 3.9% of votes despite being relatively new to the market.

For something a little less expensive that is almost a hybrid between kit and commercially available, try the tr usdx transeiver. This little guy runs under $150 and covers 80/60/40/30/20m at 5W, in only 140g without the power supply. You can even get 1/2W on a 5V power supply.

Choosing Between Kit-Build and Ready-to-Use Radios

So should you build or buy? The answer depends on a few things. If you’re good with a soldering iron and enjoy the process, kits like the QCX give you way more radio per dollar. The QCX Mini kit costs $57.79, while the fully assembled version runs $102.79—that’s a $45 premium just to avoid construction.

Commercial radios do have their advantages though. They’re typically more rugged and packed with features. I’ve seen operators drop their KX2 multiple times and get caught in rainstorms with it, only to have the radio keep working perfectly. Try that with most homebrew gear!

For beginners without much technical experience, I usually recommend starting with a commercial option. You can always build kits later when you’ve got more experience. Many QRP enthusiasts (myself included) end up with both—commercial equipment for reliability and homebrew gear for the fun of it.

When deciding what’s right for you, consider:

  • Your technical skills and patience for troubleshooting
  • Which bands and modes you want to operate
  • Your budget (obviously)
  • Where you’ll be using it (home or field)
  • Available power sources

No matter which route you take, QRP equipment just keeps getting better. Today’s radios pack incredible capabilities into tiny packages, making low-power operation more accessible than it’s ever been.

Optimizing Antennas and Modes for QRP Success

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Image Source: Q R P e r

When you’re only pushing a few watts of power, every single element in your radio system needs to pull its weight. I’ve learned through years of QRP operation that your antenna system and choice of transmission mode make all the difference between frustration and success.

Full-Size Dipoles vs Compromise Antennas

If there’s one thing I can’t stress enough about QRP operation, it’s this: antenna efficiency is absolutely critical. When you’re running 100 watts, you can get away with a mediocre antenna. With 5 watts or less? Not a chance.

I’ve found full-size dipoles to be the best bang for your buck in most situations. They convert your precious few watts into effective radiated power far more efficiently than shortened alternatives. As one experienced operator puts it, “My advice to travelers is to carefully tune your antennas, use full size wire dipoles, and save your money”.

For portable operations like SOTA (Summits On The Air), I prefer end-fed half-wave antennas. They’re lightweight, easy to set up, and have outstanding radiation efficiency. I’ve made contacts from mountaintops across several states with just 3 watts and a simple wire thrown into a tree.

Whatever you do, avoid physically shortened antennas with loading coils or traps if possible. They might be convenient, but they’re essentially “wasting” precious signal strength that QRP stations simply can’t afford to lose.

Interestingly, my field tests comparing different antennas showed the 30-meter band to be particularly effective for portable QRP work. It offers reliable coverage at short and medium distances during daylight hours—exactly when most portable operations happen.

CW and Digital Modes for Efficient Transmission

The mode you choose can make or break your QRP experience. Have you ever tried making SSB voice contacts with 5 watts during a contest? It’s possible, but it sure isn’t easy!

CW (Morse code) stands out as exceptionally effective for QRP. This isn’t just my opinion—it’s physics. A single tone cuts through noise far better than a voice signal, which spreads energy across multiple frequencies. Real-world data confirms that “CW is preferred over SSB for low power operation because CW delivers better signal-to-noise ratio than SSB”.

If you’re not a CW operator, digital modes like FT8 and WSPR take efficiency even further. I’ve made FT8 contacts to Australia from the eastern US using just 2 watts! VOACAP simulations back this up—an operator using 1W on 30 meters with a dipole showed only about 40% probability of SSB contacts within 600 miles, while CW bumped that up to 90% reliability within the same distance. Digital modes extended the range even further.

Using VOACAP to Predict Propagation Windows

One of my favorite QRP techniques is using VOACAP (Voice of America Coverage Analysis Program) to identify optimal times and frequencies before I even turn on the radio. This free online tool takes the guesswork out of operating by analyzing:

  • Solar flux and sunspot numbers
  • Time of day and season
  • Distance between stations
  • Antenna characteristics

The propagation wheel visualization is particularly useful, showing exactly when signals on specific bands will likely get through to your target area. Why waste battery power calling when the odds are against you? I’d rather wait for the right window and make the contact on the first try.

This strategic approach has completely transformed my QRP operation. Instead of randomly calling and hoping, I now concentrate my efforts during optimal propagation windows. The result? More contacts, less frustration, and a much more enjoyable operating experience.

QRP Community, Contests, and Awards

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Image Source: sv3auw

The QRP world is more than just a technical pursuit – it’s a thriving community of like-minded operators who enjoy doing more with less. I’ve been involved with several QRP clubs over the years, and the camaraderie among low-power enthusiasts is truly something special. These groups offer much more than just technical advice – they provide recognition, encouragement, and plenty of opportunities to test your skills against other QRP operators.

QRP ARCI and G-QRP Club Activities

The QRP Amateur Radio Club International (QRP ARCI) is probably the best-known organization dedicated to low power operation. They put out an excellent “QRP Quarterly” magazine that’s packed with useful information, from antenna designs to operating tips. Every year at Dayton Hamvention, they host the “Four Days In May” (FDIM) conference, which I try to attend whenever possible. It’s incredible to see hundreds of QRP enthusiasts gathered in one place sharing ideas and experiences.

Across the pond, the G-QRP Club has been keeping the low power spirit alive since 1974. Their quarterly magazine “SPRAT” is a gold mine of circuits, technical hints, and construction projects. I’ve built several gadgets from SPRAT articles over the years, and they almost always work better than expected. The club also offers various achievement awards such as the G2NJ Trophy for technical articles and the Partridge Trophy for antenna innovations.

Thousand-Miles-Per-Watt and Other Awards

The “1000 Miles per Watt” award is like the holy grail for QRP operators. I remember the first time I qualified for this one – I made a contact from Ohio to California using just 3 watts, giving me around 1200 miles per watt. The calculation is simple: just divide the distance in miles by your power in watts. Organizations like QRP ARCI, NAQCC, and SKCC all offer variations of this award.

I’ve heard of operators achieving over 1700 miles per watt using just 500 milliwatts! That’s the kind of achievement that makes QRP so addictive – there’s always someone pushing the boundaries further than you thought possible.

Beyond the 1000 MPW award, there are dozens of other awards specifically for QRP operators:

  • QRP DXCC Award from ARRL for working 100 countries with 5 watts or less
  • WAC-QRP for working all continents with QRP power
  • Milliwatts per Kilometer (MPK) Award for the truly power-miserly

If you join QRP ARCI, you can claim up to five awards per year at no additional cost, which is a nice benefit of membership.

QRP Categories in Major Ham Radio Contests

Just about every major ham radio contest now includes QRP categories, which means you’re competing against other low-power stations rather than the big guns. This levels the playing field and makes contesting much more enjoyable for QRP enthusiasts.

I particularly enjoy the AGCW-DL QRP Contest held every March and the ARS Flight of the Bumblebees at the end of July. The Bumblebees event is especially fun because it combines portable operation with QRP power levels.

There are also some quirky contests like the “Sasquatch Stomp” from the Pacific North West QRP Group that add a bit of humor and creativity to QRP contesting.

What I love most about these events is the sense of community they foster. Even though we’re all competing, there’s a shared understanding that we’re all crazy enough to be trying to make contacts with tiny amounts of power. When you make a contact with another QRP station during one of these contests, there’s often an acknowledgment of mutual respect that you just don’t find in the high-power categories.

Conclusion

QRP radio is one of those things in ham radio that turns limitations into opportunities. Instead of seeing the 5-watt limit as a handicap, we see it as a challenge that makes each contact more meaningful. After all, anyone can make contacts with 1,500 watts and a massive beam antenna – where’s the fun in that?

I’ve been operating QRP for years now, and the satisfaction I get from making a DX contact with just a few watts is unmatched by any other aspect of the hobby. It’s like fishing with ultralight tackle – the experience becomes more about skill and finesse than brute force.

The practical benefits of using low power go way beyond the challenge factor. When you’re operating from a battery during Field Day or an emergency, running QRP means your power lasts much longer. Your neighbors will thank you too – I’ve never had a single TVI complaint when running 5 watts!

Equipment options have never been better for QRP operators. Whether you’re looking to build something yourself or buy a commercial rig, there’s something for every budget. I started with a simple QCX kit that cost me less than $60, and the contacts I’ve made with it still amaze me. If you prefer something ready-to-go, radios like the Elecraft KX2 or Yaesu FT-818 pack incredible performance into portable packages.

Remember though, your antenna system is even more important than your radio when running QRP. A full-size dipole up high will outperform any fancy shortened antenna when every milliwatt counts. I’ve learned this lesson the hard way!

Operating technique makes all the difference when running low power. CW and digital modes give you the best bang for your watt, and timing your calls strategically can make your 5 watts sound like 100 to the receiving station. Tools like VOACAP help me identify when propagation will work in my favor – why waste battery power calling when the band isn’t open?

What really keeps some into this, though, is the community. Groups like QRP ARCI and the G-QRP Club connect like-minded operators around the world. When I earned my “thousand-miles-per-watt” award, I felt like I’d joined a special club of operators who value skill over raw power.

Is QRP for everyone? Probably not. It requires patience and the willingness to accept that sometimes conditions just won’t cooperate. But if you’re looking for a challenge that will sharpen your operating skills and provide a deep sense of accomplishment, give it a try. You might just find, like I did, that less power really does bring more operating fun.

How to Master Ham Radio Fox Hunting: Guide to Essential Gear

Fox hunting in the ham radio world has fascinated me for years. It’s amazing how the gear ranges from simple “body fade” techniques that cost nothing to fancy directional equipment that can pinpoint signals within a single degree of accuracy. This hobby has grown so competitive that there are actual fox hunting championships held around the world, which I find both impressive and slightly amusing.

At its most basic level, fox hunting is about finding a hidden transmitter (the “fox”) that sends out a beeping tone every few seconds. Think of it as hide-and-seek with radios. As hunters gain experience, most of us end up upgrading our equipment. The serious enthusiasts I’ve met swear by specialized Yagi antennas – often homemade using PVC pipe, hose clamps, and ordinary tape measures – paired with offset attenuators that can dial down signals from 20 dB all the way to an impressive 100 dB or more.

I’ve noticed that fox hunting techniques change dramatically depending on terrain and distance. Most hunts I’ve participated in take place on fairly short-range 2m/70cm bands, although some hardcore enthusiasts go after foxes on the 80-meter HF band, covering much larger areas. When you get close to your target, you’ll need to employ some clever signal dampening tricks like the third harmonic technique to maintain accurate direction finding.

One thing I should make clear right away – there’s no “standard” setup for on-foot hunts in the USA. From my experience, if you’re just starting out, a three-element Yagi antenna and a basic attenuator will serve you well. For those ready to invest a bit more, frequency-synthesized receivers like the Sniffer 4 (a favorite among ARDF Team USA members) cost just over $200 and offer significant advantages over the improvised setups many beginners start with.

What is Ham Radio Fox Hunting?

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Image Source: The Prepared

I’ve been involved with ham radio for years, and fox hunting remains one of my favorite activities. It’s essentially a unique blend of technology and outdoor adventure where participants locate hidden radio transmitters – no actual foxes or animals involved! Instead, we radio enthusiasts use specialized techniques to track down small transmitters hidden within a designated search area. What makes this so engaging is how it combines technical skills with the thrill of the chase.

How it works and what it’s used for

Fox hunting (also called transmitter hunting or hidden transmitter hunting) follows some pretty straightforward rules. Before a hunt begins, you’ll typically get information about the transmitter’s frequency and the boundaries of your search area. The “fox” (our hidden transmitter) usually beeps intermittently, and you’ll need to track it down using radio direction finding (RDF) equipment.

From my experience, the sport comes in several flavors:

FormatRangeTransportationEquipment
MobileCity/County-wideVehiclesVehicle-mounted antennas, handheld devices
On-footParks, small areasWalkingHandheld RDF equipment, directional antennas
ARDFWooded areasRunning/WalkingMap, compass, RDF equipment

Here in North America, I’ve noticed mobile hunts are particularly popular. During these events, folks mount equipment on their vehicles or deploy antennas through windows to track signals while driving. These hunts cover substantial territory, sometimes spanning entire cities or counties. Winning means either being first to find the transmitter or traveling the shortest overall distance.

On-foot hunts are my personal favorite. They’re usually held in smaller areas like public parks, with everyone competing entirely on foot. You’ll often find these organized alongside radio club meetings or conventions.

There’s also a more formalized version called Amateur Radio Direction Finding (ARDF), which has international recognition and features Olympic-style competitions with proper medal ceremonies. ARDF combines orienteering with radio direction finding in timed races through various terrain. I’ve participated in a few of these, and they’re quite challenging!

The basic technique we use in any fox hunt is triangulation—taking signal readings from multiple locations to figure out where the transmitter might be. I’ve found the challenge gets trickier as you get closer to your target since the signal becomes stronger and harder to directionally pinpoint.

Real-world applications beyond the sport

I think what makes fox hunting truly worthwhile is how these skills transfer to real-world situations. This isn’t just a game – it’s practical training.

First and foremost, direction finding skills are absolutely crucial for search and rescue operations. Teams can locate downed aircraft by tracking emergency beacons on 121.500 MHz (civilian) or 243.000 MHz (military) frequencies. I’ve seen these same techniques used to find lost or injured hikers carrying transmitters in wilderness areas.

Secondly, these methods help identify and track down sources of radio interference. Whether it’s unintentional interference from faulty equipment or deliberate jamming, these skills help maintain the integrity of amateur radio, public safety, and commercial radio systems. I’ve personally helped locate “stuck” transmitters that were disrupting normal communications.

This dual nature as both sport and practical skill makes fox hunting particularly valuable in our ham community. Many local radio clubs organize regular hunts specifically to develop these abilities. Through these events, you’ll not only have fun competing but also prepare for potential emergency scenarios where direction finding skills might save lives.

Fox hunting serves as an engaging way to build teamwork, organizational skills, and familiarity with local geography—knowledge that proves incredibly useful during emergency operations. This blend of recreation and readiness really captures the essence of ham radio culture: having fun while developing capabilities that could someday serve the public good.

Essential Gear to Get Started

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Image Source: YouTube

Let me walk you through the gear you’ll need to start fox hunting. The good news is that you really only need three basic components: a receiver to pick up the signals, an antenna to figure out which direction they’re coming from, and some way to reduce strong signals when you get close to the target.

Handheld radios and scanners

Any fox hunting setup starts with a decent receiver. If you’re just getting started, you probably already own what you need:

I’ve used standard handheld transceivers (HTs) for years with great success, especially ones that have signal strength meters to help gauge how close I am to the transmitter. Sure, the premium radios from Kenwood, Icom, and Yaesu give you better performance and less signal overload, but I’ve seen plenty of beginners do just fine with even a Baofeng UV-5R.

Here’s something interesting I’ve discovered – old programmable scanners actually offer some serious advantages over regular ham radios for fox hunting:

  • They have real squelch knobs you can turn for precise signal control
  • They can’t transmit (which is actually helpful if you have non-licensed folks joining the hunt)
  • You can pre-program fox frequencies in 4MHz increments
  • You can find them dirt cheap – often just $1-10 at thrift stores and garage sales, or below $50 on ebay.

When shopping for a receiver, look for one that shows signal strength and lets you connect external antennas. I have had not been very successful finding inexpensive scanners with signal strength indicators, YMMV. Dual-band capability (2m/70cm) gives you more options when you’re trying different tracking techniques. One of the most popular models you can still buy new is the Bearcat BC125AT which is an excellent unit, although not terribly inexpensive.

If you can forgo the signal strength meter, one of my favorite recommendations is the Bearcat BC60XLT because they are very reliable, lightweight, inexpensive ($20-$40 depending on condition) and I have never had anyone come back and tell me they couldn’t find one. Heck, I just did an eBay search and there are over 80 available right now!

Body shielding and signal nulling

The simplest technique I’ve used requires nothing beyond your radio and your body. It’s called “body shielding” or “body fade,” and it works surprisingly well:

  1. Hold your radio tight against your chest
  2. Rotate your body slowly in a complete circle
  3. Note where the signal becomes weakest (this is the “null”)
  4. The transmitter is located directly behind you at this point

What’s happening here is your body creates a basic directional detection system by blocking signals coming from behind you. I’ve had the best results with this technique in open areas away from large buildings, chain-link fences, and other metal objects that cause signal reflections.

When you get closer to the transmitter and the signals become overwhelmingly strong, I’ve used several tricks to reduce the signal:

  • Just remove the antenna completely (if you can still hear the signal with no antenna, you’re extremely close)
  • Tune 5-10 kHz off the transmitter frequency
  • If you have a dual-band radio, try listening for the much weaker third harmonic in the 70cm band
  • Wrap aluminum foil around the radio (but be careful not to short the battery terminals)

Basic directional antennas

Body shielding works in a pinch, but I consistently get much better accuracy with dedicated directional antennas. I’ve used two main types, and they serve different purposes:

Yagi Antennas: These forward-facing antennas provide gain in the direction they’re pointed. The tape measure Yagi has become my go-to homebrew option, built from:

  • PVC pipe frame
  • Hose clamps
  • Flexible tape measure elements (which won’t break when you inevitably bang them into trees)

A basic three-element Yagi provides plenty of gain for most hunting scenarios while still being portable enough for field use. To use it, you simply point the antenna horizontally and rotate your body until you find the direction with the strongest signal.

Loop Antennas: Unlike Yagis, loop antennas excel at providing sharp signal nulls rather than peaks:

  • They have a donut-shaped reception pattern with very narrow nulls
  • While they offer less gain than Yagis, their nulls can be under 10 degrees wide (compared to a Yagi’s 60-75 degree beamwidth)
  • I’ve used them in various sizes (18-inch VHF model effective up to 600 MHz, 11-inch UHF model effective up to 1 GHz)

From my experience and talking with other hunters, null-detection antennas like loops provide more precise direction finding than peak-detection antennas like Yagis, especially when you’re close to your target.

The most versatile setup I’ve put together contains both types—I use Yagis for initial signal acquisition and loops for precise final direction finding.

How to Build and Hide a Fox Transmitter

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Image Source: Reddit

I’ve been on both sides of fox hunting – finding and hiding transmitters – and I can tell you that building a good fox is just as challenging and fun as tracking one down. If you’re interested in being the fox rather than the hunter, you’ve got several options ranging from commercial products to DIY setups. Your choice really depends on your technical skills and what kind of hunt you’re planning.

Choosing a transmitter and controller

When I first started creating fox transmitters, I was overwhelmed by the options. The simplest approach is to go with commercial solutions like the Byonics MicroFox line. These neat little devices come with everything you need – a frequency-agile 2-meter transmitter and a controller that lets you program the tones and timing patterns. With their 15mW output power, these transmitters work perfectly for walking hunts. I’ve found they can be detected from about 12 miles away when the hunter is using a decent directional antenna.

If you’re more of a tinkerer like me, building your own setup can be more satisfying. The most popular DIY approach I’ve seen involves pairing an Arduino microcontroller with a handheld radio. You’ll need:

  • A programmable Arduino board (I recommend the Nano or Mega for complex setups)
  • A relay module to key the microphone
  • A Baofeng UV5R or similar radio as your transmission source

For those who want something in between, the HackerBox Fox Hunt Kit combines an ESP32 microcontroller with an SA818 radio transceiver module. What I like about this option is it works on either VHF (2m) or UHF (70cm) bands.

Some of my more technically-inclined ham friends use PIC microcontrollers with specialized transmitter modules like the SRB-MX146. These offer really precise frequency control through various programming methods – from simple binary switch selection to direct ASCII data configuration via I2C or SPI. Honestly, this is overkill for beginners, but it’s nice to know the option exists.

Using dummy loads and power settings

Getting the power level right is crucial when setting up a fox transmitter. I’ve seen too many hunts ruined by transmitters that were either too powerful or too weak. Here’s a simple breakdown of what I’ve found works best:

Power LevelTypical RangeBest For
1mWUp to ¼ mileFinal stage of multi-transmitter hunts
15mWDetectable from ~12 milesWalking hunts in parks
100mWCity-wide coverageMobile vehicle hunts
1WMulti-city coverageLarge area hunts

Most handheld radios have a 1-watt setting that works fine for fox transmitters, though I’ve noticed they can get pretty hot during continuous transmission. Mobile radios typically start at 5 watts minimum, so you’ll need to dial that down somehow.

One thing I can’t stress enough – always use a dummy load when testing and configuring your fox. I learned this lesson the hard way after accidentally causing interference during setup. A good dummy load will:

  • Protect your transmitter circuitry by providing proper impedance matching
  • Let you test signals without broadcasting
  • Prevent you from being “that guy” who messes up the local repeater

A properly functioning dummy load should measure around 50 ohms between the center pin and outer shield. Simple test, but it could save your equipment.

Programming CW ID and timing

Every fox transmitter needs proper identification to stay legal with FCC regulations. Beyond that, getting the timing pattern right makes a huge difference in how enjoyable the hunt will be.

From the hunts I’ve organized, these timing configurations work well:

  1. Continuous transmission with periodic ID – good for beginners
  2. Alternating transmission/silence patterns (1 minute on, 4 minutes off) – adds challenge
  3. Sequential multi-fox setups where each transmitter activates in turn – for advanced hunts

For CW (Morse code) identification, your controller needs to store your callsign and transmit it regularly. I also like to add distinctive audio patterns that help hunters distinguish my fox from other signals. Some options include:

  • Rising and falling tone sequences (my personal favorite)
  • Distinctive beep patterns
  • Audio frequencies that human ears pick up well (usually 300Hz-3kHz)

If you go with the Byonics option, their configuration software makes this part easy. The default settings – 15 seconds of tone followed by Morse code ID, repeated every 30 seconds – work well for most hunts. With Arduino-based controllers, you can program the timing directly in the sketch. I’ve even added DTMF control to mine so I can change transmission modes remotely.

Don’t have access to fancy controllers? No problem. Some of the most creative fox setups I’ve seen use basic 555 timers and decade counters with diode matrices to create different timing patterns. Simple but effective!

Building or Buying Hunting Equipment

Fox hunting image 4

Image Source: RadioReference.com Forums

When it comes to tracking down hidden transmitters, your choice of directional equipment can make or break your success. I’ve seen frustrated hunters fail simply because they picked the wrong tools for the job. The fox hunting community has developed some pretty specialized equipment over the years, and you’ve got options ranging from weekend DIY projects to commercial solutions.

Tape measure Yagi antennas

The tape measure Yagi has become my go-to antenna for most hunts. It’s durable, effective, and won’t break the bank. This three-element beam gives you approximately 7.3 dBd of gain with an impressive front-to-back ratio exceeding 50 dB. Its beamwidth measures 67.5 degrees in the E-plane and 110 degrees in the H-plane, creating what I’d call a moderately directional pattern.

You can build one with materials from any hardware store:

  • Steel measuring tape (I prefer the 1-inch width)
  • PVC pipe and connectors
  • Hose clamps or cable ties
  • RG-58 coax cable

I’ve learned the hard way that adding a choke balun (just wrap 7-8 turns of coax around the boom) really helps minimize pattern skew and cuts down on unwanted signal pickup. The finished antenna works like a shotgun rather than a rifle – perfect for getting that initial bearing when you’re first picking up the signal.

Offset attenuators and how they work

Here’s a problem every fox hunter faces eventually – you get close enough to your target that even a directional antenna becomes useless as signals overpower your receiver. This is where offset attenuators save the day through a clever bit of frequency conversion.

An offset attenuator creates a weaker, offset signal by mixing the incoming fox transmission with a local oscillator signal (typically 4 MHz). You then tune your receiver to the new frequency (original +/- 4 MHz) and adjust attenuation as needed.

The signal reduction capabilities are pretty remarkable:

  • Minimum attenuation: around 30 dB
  • Maximum attenuation: 72-82 dB depending on frequency
  • Multiple harmonic offsets available when you’re extremely close

I’ve used both Arrow’s commercial offset attenuator ($60) and built my own DIY version for about $15. The commercial one has a nicer sine wave generator that creates less interference, but my homebrew version works just fine for most hunts.

Loop antennas and null detection

While Yagi antennas work by finding signal peaks, I’ve found loop antennas excel at something completely different – null detection. Instead of looking for where the signal is strongest, you find where it disappears. These shielded loops create sharp nulls perpendicular to the loop plane with some serious advantages:

  • Extremely precise bearings (I can usually get within ±5 degrees at null points)
  • Much less vulnerable to signal reflections thanks to Faraday shielding
  • Works across wide frequency ranges (1-600 MHz for VHF models)

To use a loop effectively, you rotate it slowly until you find where the signal drops to its minimum point, then move to another location and repeat. The transmitter lies along the line connecting these nulls. I find this technique especially useful in urban environments where signals bounce all over the place.

Commercially available antennas

If DIY isn’t your thing, several manufacturers make specialized fox hunting equipment that works right out of the box.

Arrow Antennas makes both VHF and UHF Fox Hunt Loops ($79) that work up to 600 MHz and 1 GHz respectively. I’ve used these 18-inch and 11-inch circumference loops with their offset attenuators, and they perform beautifully together.

For more serious hunters, the Sniffer 4 from VK3YNG is what members of ARDF Team USA prefer. This synthesized receiver includes automatic-ranging attenuation in 15 dB steps. It’s impressive but comes with a higher price tag.

The FoxRex144 combines a measuring-tape Yagi with an integrated compass and purpose-built receiver. At approximately $470, it’s a significant investment, but if you’re serious about competitive fox hunting, it might be worth it.

In my experience, both building and buying have their place. I started with homebrew equipment to learn the principles, then added some commercial pieces later. Most experienced hunters I know eventually end up with both types in their toolkit, using whichever works best for specific hunting conditions.

Fox Hunting Techniques for Beginners

When I first got into fox hunting, finding hidden transmitters seemed like magic. Truth is, it’s just a progression of simple techniques that build on each other. Even with the most basic gear, you can track down those elusive signals if you follow some tried-and-true methods.

Taking initial bearings

Taking your first bearing is the starting point for any successful hunt. Here’s how I do it:

  1. Find an open area away from large metal objects and buildings that might cause reflections
  2. Hold your handheld radio against your body and slowly turn in a complete circle
  3. Note where the signal becomes weakest—the transmitter is directly behind you at this point
  4. Mark your location and bearing direction on a map using a compass
  5. Move to a different location (ideally at a 45° angle toward your suspected direction) and repeat

I’ve learned the hard way that bearings are rarely more accurate than ±20 degrees, so I always collect multiple readings from different locations to triangulate the fox’s position. The first couple times I tried this, I made the mistake of taking just one reading and heading off confidently in completely the wrong direction!

Using peak and null methods

There are two main approaches to direction finding, and I’ve used both extensively:

The peak method involves pointing a directional antenna (like a Yagi) and finding where the signal is strongest. This works really well for initial detection but gets pretty unreliable when you’re close to the transmitter.

I personally prefer the null method which focuses on finding where the signal disappears completely. Even basic body shielding creates a decent null detection system, and I’ve found it gives better accuracy than the peak method when signals are strong. Loop antennas are amazing at creating sharp nulls with precision exceeding ±5 degrees.

Detuning and harmonic tracking

The real challenge comes when you get close to the fox – the signal gets so strong it overwhelms your receiver. I’ve used all these signal-reducing tricks at various times:

  • Tune 5-10 kHz off the transmitter frequency (either direction works)
  • Listen for the third harmonic (e.g., 439.695 MHz for a 146.565 MHz fox)
  • Remove your antenna entirely when extremely close
  • Create an intentional gap in your antenna connection

My typical progression through a hunt starts with directional antennas for the first bearings, then switches to body nulling as I get closer, and finally removes the antenna entirely when I’m within visual range of the hidden transmitter. The first time I found a fox by just holding my radio with no antenna, I couldn’t believe how well it worked – you can literally follow the signal meter to within a few feet of the transmitter!

On-Foot vs. Mobile Fox Hunting

Fox hunting image 5

Image Source: W8WJB.com

I’ve participated in both on-foot and mobile fox hunts over the years, and I can tell you they’re completely different animals (pun intended). When planning a hunt, you’ll need to decide which approach makes the most sense for your situation.

When to use each method

The choice between mobile and on-foot hunting comes down to two main factors: how big is your search area, and what kind of terrain are you dealing with?

Mobile fox hunting shines when you’re covering large areas – I’m talking entire cities or counties. If there’s a good chance the hidden transmitter is miles away from your starting point, you’ll definitely want to hop in a vehicle. Most mobile hunts I’ve attended start with everyone gathering at a central location, taking initial bearings with vehicle-mounted antennas, and then driving toward where we think the signal is coming from.

On-foot hunting, on the other hand, is perfect for smaller spaces like parks, hamfests, or anywhere that’s no bigger than a couple miles across. These are great for beginners since you don’t need all that specialized vehicle equipment. In my experience, walking hunts are the best way to develop those fundamental direction-finding skills you’ll need for the bigger hunts later on.

Many of the clubs I belong to actually combine both approaches – we start in vehicles to narrow down the general area, then park and continue on foot for the final pinpointing. This hybrid approach gives you the best of both worlds: the speed of driving with the precision of walking.

Tools and setup differences

The equipment setups for these two methods couldn’t be more different:

Mobile HuntingOn-Foot Hunting
Vehicle-mounted directional antennasHandheld directional antennas
Roof-mounted doppler arraysBody-fade techniques
Multiple team members (driver/navigator)Individual operation possible
Mobile power sourcesBattery-powered equipment

For mobile hunting, you’ll need gear that works while you’re driving. I learned the hard way that you really need at least two people in the vehicle – one person focused solely on driving while the other handles the direction-finding equipment. Trust me, trying to do both at once is not only frustrating but potentially dangerous.

Using maps and compasses effectively

Regardless of which method you choose, good navigation skills are absolutely essential.

For mobile hunts, I always recommend doing some preliminary triangulation on a map before putting even a mile on your odometer. I’ve seen teams take signal readings from several different locations, mark the bearings on their maps, and identify the most likely hiding spot before they even start driving. Without this preparation, I once watched a team drive 31.7 miles to reach a fox that was only 6 miles away as the crow flies. That was painful to watch!

Even with all our modern GPS gadgets, I never go on a hunt without a good old-fashioned compass and detailed map. This is especially true for walking competitions, where you might be navigating through woods while simultaneously trying to track radio signals. Those traditional navigation skills have saved me more times than I can count when my phone battery died or when I couldn’t get a GPS signal.

Many hunters these days use mapping apps that let you track your position and document bearings in real-time. These are great tools, but I still consider them supplements to – not replacements for – fundamental navigation skills. When technology fails (and it will), knowing how to use a map and compass can be the difference between finding the fox and wandering in circles until the hunt is over.

Conclusion

I’ve been involved in fox hunting for quite a few years now, and I still find it one of the most rewarding aspects of ham radio. It perfectly blends technical know-how with outdoor adventure in a way that few other radio activities can match. Throughout this guide, I’ve tried to share what I’ve learned about getting started without overwhelming you with too much information at once.

From my experience, the most important thing for beginners to remember is that successful fox hunting takes patience. You won’t find every fox on your first try, and that’s perfectly fine. I certainly didn’t! Body fade techniques make an excellent starting point – I still use them in a pinch even after all these years. As your skills develop, you’ll naturally want to add directional antennas to your toolkit for better accuracy.

When it comes to equipment, I’ve found myself using both DIY gear and commercial products depending on the situation. My homemade tape measure Yagi has served me faithfully for years, but I’ll admit that my Arrow loop antenna has gotten me out of tough spots when precision was critical. There’s no single “right” approach here – it’s whatever works for you and your budget.

What really sets fox hunting apart is its incredible versatility. Some weekends I’m participating in an organized competition with strict rules, while other times I’m just out with buddies from the local radio club having fun. The basic techniques remain the same whether you’re in a competitive event or just practicing for emergency preparedness scenarios.

And speaking of emergencies, the skills you develop chasing foxes translate directly to real-world applications. I’ve personally helped locate sources of interference that were affecting a local repeater using the exact same techniques I use in recreational hunts. That’s what I love about this aspect of the hobby – you’re having fun while developing genuinely useful skills.

Don’t feel intimidated by those fancy setups you might see experienced hunters using. My first successful hunt was with nothing more than a basic Baofeng handheld and my body-fade technique. The beautiful thing about fox hunting is that you can start simple and gradually build up your arsenal as your interest grows.

If you’re looking for a new challenge in ham radio, I really encourage you to give fox hunting a try. Despite all the technological advances we’ve seen over the decades, there’s still nothing quite like the thrill of closing in on a hidden transmitter after a challenging hunt. The satisfaction you get when you finally locate that elusive fox makes all the effort worthwhile.

10 Essential Ham Radio Connectors Every Operator Should Know

I’ve spent countless hours troubleshooting radio issues only to discover the culprit was a simple ham radio connector problem. Ask any ham operator about their most frustrating moments, and you’ll likely hear stories about the wrong adapter or a damaged connector ruining their day.

Trust me, understanding radio connector types isn’t just about avoiding headaches—it’s absolutely essential for building an effective station. Take the trusty PL-259 connector with its durable brass body. This workhorse remains a staple for HF and VHF signals in most ham shacks. On the other hand, if you need weather resistance and higher frequency capability, the N-Type connector supports frequencies up to an impressive 11 GHz. I’ve found BNC connectors work great up to 4 GHz, but they start struggling beyond 1 GHz.

For those of us working with higher power setups, certain connectors really prove their worth. The Anderson Powerpole connectors I use in my mobile setup can withstand a remarkable 100,000 no-load insertions and 250 hot-plugs at full load. Pretty impressive, right? Their bigger versions handle currents from 50 to 500 amps and voltages up to 600 volts. Meanwhile, the 7/16 DIN connector excels in high-power transmitter applications by minimizing signal loss.

The connector world isn’t always straightforward though. Some connectors, like reverse polarity SMA, exist specifically because of FCC regulations preventing non-certified antennas from being easily attached to devices. This regulatory decision (thanks, government!) has created a variety of unique connector types that we all need to navigate.

In this article, I’ll break down the 10 essential connectors every ham radio enthusiast should know. I’ll explain their applications, benefits, and show you how to identify male versus female variations. Whether you’re setting up your first station or upgrading your existing equipment like I recently did, this guide will help you make the right connections and avoid some common pitfalls I’ve encountered over the years.

SMA Connectors (Standard and Reverse Polarity)

ham connectors image 1

Image Source: Data-alliance.net

SMA connectors might be small, but they’ve saved me from countless headaches with my handheld radios. These little guys (SubMiniature version A) have become absolutely essential in modern ham radio setups, especially when you need something compact but reliable. They were developed back in the 1960s, and I’ve come to appreciate their threaded design that keeps connections secure during critical transmissions.

SMA connector overview

When you look at an SMA connector, you’ll notice it has a metal shell with threads and an internal structure with either a center pin or receptacle. This design gives you a solid 50-ohm impedance connection, which is crucial for maintaining signal integrity. I remember when these were only rated from DC to 12 GHz, but modern versions have gotten much better – now reaching up to 18 GHz for standard variants and even 26.5 GHz for the precision models.

I particularly love the threaded coupling mechanism because it ensures mechanical stability. This has been a lifesaver when I’m operating in environments with lots of vibration or physical stress. The compact size also gives you excellent high-frequency performance by minimizing those parasitic effects that can really mess up your signal quality.

SMA male vs female

SMA male on the left, SMA female on the right

Here’s where things get a bit confusing for newcomers. Identifying SMA connector gender isn’t as straightforward as you might think. In standard SMA setups, the male connector has an inner pin surrounded by a barrel with inside threads, while the female connector contains a center sleeve surrounded by a barrel with outside threads. The gender actually corresponds to the innermost electrical component – not the threads.

To make matters more interesting, there’s the Reverse Polarity SMA (RP-SMA or RESMA). These connectors basically swap the gender configuration: the male RP-SMA has a receptacle instead of a pin, and the female RP-SMA has a pin instead of a receptacle. This might seem like a minor difference, but trust me – you can’t connect standard SMA and RP-SMA to each other.

Connector TypeCenter ContactThread Location
SMA MalePinInside barrel
SMA FemaleSocketOutside barrel
RP-SMA MaleSocketInside barrel
RP-SMA FemalePinOutside barrel

SMA use cases in ham radio

In our ham radio world, SMA connectors have largely replaced BNC connectors on handheld transceivers as manufacturers made radios smaller and more compact. Most of the big names like Yaesu, Icom, and Kenwood use female SMA connectors on their radios, so you need antennas with male pins.

On the flip side, many Chinese-made handhelds (like Baofeng and Wouxun) use male SMA connectors on the radio body, which means you need female connector antennas. This distinction becomes super important when you’re shopping for aftermarket antennas or adapters. I’ve got a drawer full of miscelaneous adapters I built up over the years, finally just buying one nice adapter kit to carry with me.

Beyond HTs, I’ve found SMA connectors useful in several other ham applications:

  • Microwave systems
  • Test and measurement equipment
  • Antenna connections, especially at higher frequencies
  • Satellite communication systems

SMA benefits and limitations

After using these connectors for years, I can tell you they offer some real advantages. Their compact size is perfect for portable equipment, and the threaded coupling keeps connections secure during field operations. I’ve never had one come loose during portable operations. Their excellent high-frequency capability makes them great for microwave work up to 18 GHz.

The good impedance matching (50 ohms) minimizes signal reflections and losses, which is critical for high-frequency signal transmission. I also appreciate that their standardized specs ensure good interchangeability between equipment from different manufacturers.

But they’re not perfect. The relatively small size makes them unsuitable for high-power applications. I wouldn’t use them for anything pushing serious watts. And although they handle high frequencies pretty well, they become less effective above 26.5 GHz.

Durability is another issue – SMA connectors only support a limited number of connect/disconnect cycles before performance degrades. If you’re constantly connecting and disconnecting equipment like I do in my test setup, you might want to consider other connector types. I’ve had to replace several after they became loose from too much use.

MCX Connectors

mcx connectors

Image Source: LinkedIn

Let me tell you about MCX connectors – these tiny little marvels have saved me in situations where space was tight and I needed a reliable RF connection. I first ran into MCX connectors when experimenting with SDR equipment a few years ago, and I’ve been impressed with how much capability is packed into such a small form factor.

The basics of MCX connectors

MCX (Micro Coaxial) connectors are seriously small – about 30% smaller than SMB connectors in both size and weight. To give you an idea of just how compact we’re talking, the outer diameter of an MCX plug measures just 3.6-3.76mm (0.140 inches). That’s smaller than a pencil eraser!

These connectors follow the European CECC 22220 specification and come in both 50-ohm and 75-ohm impedance versions. The 50-ohm variants offer impressive frequency range from DC to 12 GHz, though in my experience most hams typically use them up to about 6 GHz. What I really like about them is their snap-on/snap-off mechanism – just push to connect and pull to disconnect. Simple.

Telling male from female MCX

I know how confusing connector gender can be, especially with these tiny connectors. Here’s my quick guide to identifying them:

The male MCX (plug) has:

  • An outer contact with six slots radially spaced
  • Outer diameter between 3.66mm and 3.76mm
  • In 50-ohm versions, the insulator sits against the outer contact with an air gap between the insulator and center contact
  • In 75-ohm versions, the insulator nestles directly against the center contact

The female MCX (jack) has:

  • An inner diameter between 3.43mm and 3.48mm for mating
  • In 50-ohm versions, the insulator completely surrounds the female center contact
  • In 75-ohm versions, the center contact stands without being completely surrounded by the insulator

Both versions are rated for about 500 mating cycles, which is pretty good for connectors this small. I’ve never actually worn one out myself, but it’s good to know they’re reasonably durable.

Where you’ll find MCX connectors

In the ham radio world, I’ve encountered MCX connectors in a few specific applications:

The most common place you’ll see them is on those USB DVB-T tuners that many of us repurpose as software-defined radio (SDR) receivers. These inexpensive dongles have become really popular entry points into SDR experimentation. I started with one of these myself before diving deeper into the SDR world.

MCX connectors also show up on portable GPS receivers and other compact communication devices that need external antenna connections. Their small footprint makes them perfect for miniaturized equipment where space is at a premium.

What’s really handy are the MCX-to-other-connector adapters (MCX-to-SMA, MCX-to-BNC, etc.) that let you integrate these newer compact devices with traditional ham radio equipment. I keep several of these adapters in my go-bag for field operations.

Pros and cons of MCX

From my experience, MCX connectors offer some significant advantages:

  • Their compact size is perfect for tight spaces and portable equipment
  • The snap-on coupling makes for quick connections/disconnections without tools
  • They support a broad frequency range up to 12 GHz, which covers most ham applications
  • They’re reasonably durable with a 500 mating cycle rating

But they’re not perfect (what connector is?). Here are some limitations I’ve noticed:

  • The snap-on interface isn’t as secure as threaded connectors like SMA – I’ve had them pop off during vigorous activity
  • MCX cables aren’t as widely available as SMA or BNC types, which can be frustrating when you need one
  • You have to be careful with impedance matching – the 75-ohm variants don’t play nice with 50-ohm radio applications without proper matching
  • They’re definitely not suitable for high-power transmitting applications

Overall, MCX connectors fill an important niche in the ham radio world. When you need something extremely compact that still delivers good RF performance, they’re hard to beat.

BNC Connectors

BNC connectors

Image Source: Dosin Electronics

BNC connectors have been around since the 1940s, originally developed for military radio equipment. I’ve found these connectors absolutely indispensable in my ham radio setup, especially for situations where I need to quickly connect and disconnect components. Their distinctive bayonet locking mechanism (that satisfying “twist-and-click”) really sets them apart from other connector types.

BNC connector overview

What makes BNC connectors special is their unique twist-and-lock design. You just push and give a quarter turn, and you’re connected! This is way more convenient than threading connectors when you’re in a hurry or working in tight spaces. I’ve used both the 50-ohm and 75-ohm variants, and both maintain consistent cable impedance across the connection.

If you look at one closely, you’ll see they’re made with pretty solid materials – typically galvanized steel, aluminum alloy, or stainless steel housing with brass or stainless steel internals. Most BNC connectors I’ve used work great from DC all the way up to 4 GHz for the 50-ohm versions, while the 75-ohm versions are good up to about 2 GHz. That’s plenty of range for most ham radio applications.

BNC male vs female

Figuring out BNC gender is actually pretty straightforward:

FeatureBNC MaleBNC Female
Physical appearanceHousing with bayonet, flexible insideConnector with two lugs (small “ears”)
Connection methodInserts into circular holeReceives male connector
Typical mountingOften on cable endsTypically panel-mounted
Pin configurationCenter pin extends outwardSocket receives male pin

Unlike some of the other connectors we’ve talked about, with BNC the gender is determined by the inside wire configuration, not the outside appearance. This makes identification much easier once you know what to look for.

BNC use cases in ham radio

I’ve used BNC connectors for all sorts of things in my ham shack:

They’re great for connecting antennas to radio equipment across various frequency bands. Years ago, BNC was actually the standard connector for handheld transceivers (HTs) before manufacturers started using the smaller SMA connectors as radios got more compact. I still have some older HTs that use BNC, and honestly, I sometimes miss the simplicity.

Where BNC really shines in my experience is with test equipment. All my oscilloscopes, signal generators, and spectrum analyzers use BNC. When I’m troubleshooting or testing something in the shack, I appreciate how quickly I can reconfigure my setup without having to thread and unthread connections.

BNC benefits and limitations

The benefits are pretty clear if you’ve ever used these connectors:

  • That quick connect/disconnect with just a quarter turn saves so much time
  • They stay put even with vibration thanks to that secure bayonet locking
  • I’ve had great performance with frequencies up to 4 GHz using the 50-ohm versions
  • They maintain good signal integrity even when there’s electromagnetic interference around

But they’re not perfect (what is?):

  • I wouldn’t use them for permanent outdoor installations since they’re not fully weatherproof
  • They don’t handle high power very well, especially at higher frequencies
  • The bulkier versions for thick cables like RG-8 are expensive and I’ve found they don’t last as long
  • They need a solid surface for mounting – I learned this the hard way trying to attach them to a thin portable panel once

For my station, I still use BNC connectors for most test equipment and temporary setups. When I need to quickly swap configurations or run tests, nothing beats the convenience of that quick quarter-turn connection.

UHF Connectors (PL-259 and SO-239)

UHF connectors

Image Source: Envistia Mall

Don’t let the name fool you – UHF connectors are probably the most recognizable connectors in our hobby despite having one of the most misleading names in radio. I always get a kick out of explaining to newcomers that these “UHF” connectors actually perform best at HF and lower VHF frequencies. They were developed back in the 1930s when “UHF” meant anything above 30 MHz, not the 300 MHz to 3 GHz range we define today.

UHF connector overview

I’ve installed hundreds of these connectors over the years. They use a straightforward threaded coupling system with standard 5/8 inch 24 TPI UNEF threading that makes them easy to connect by hand. The thing to remember is that their non-constant impedance design works best at frequencies below 200 MHz, and their performance really starts to tank above 500 MHz.

The typical connector bodies are made from machined, nickel-plated brass with a Teflon insulator. They’re built like tanks! I’ve seen these connectors handle power levels well over 1 kilowatt without breaking a sweat, and some models can even handle peak voltages in the 3-5 kV range. Pretty impressive for such an old design.

PL-259 and SO-239 male vs female

The naming system for these connectors confuses just about everyone at first. Here’s my simple breakdown:

DesignationWhat People Call ItWhat You’re Looking At
PL-259UHF Male/UHF PlugHas internal threads and a center pin
SO-239UHF Female/UHF JackHas external threads and a center socket

In my shack, like most setups, the SO-239 (female) connectors are on my radio equipment, and the PL-259 (male) connectors terminate my coaxial cables. Simple once you get used to it!

UHF use cases in ham radio

I use UHF connectors all over my ham setup, especially for:

  • All my HF band equipment connections
  • My old CB radio system (brings back memories!)
  • Some marine and VHF radio gear
  • All my mobile radio installations
  • Even non-ham stuff like CCTV systems occasionally
  • Public address systems

These workhorses perform admirably when you need durability and high power handling. Just remember they start to struggle at true UHF frequencies – I learned that lesson the hard way with some 440 MHz experiments.

UHF benefits and limitations

The benefits are pretty clear if you’ve used these:

  • Built like tanks – I’ve stepped on them, dropped them, and they keep working
  • Can handle serious power (over 1 kW) without breaking a sweat
  • Even a beginner can assemble them thanks to their larger size
  • They won’t break the bank like some fancy connectors
  • Just about every HF transceiver uses them as standard

But they’re not perfect:

  • Definitely not weatherproof – I wrap mine with self-amalgamating tape for outdoor use
  • Their impedance isn’t consistent (around 65Ω versus the ideal 50Ω)
  • Performance gets pretty awful above 300 MHz (significant signal loss)
  • They’re dinosaurs compared to smaller BNC or N-type connectors

Despite these limitations, I still use UHF connectors everywhere in my station. They’re abundant, affordable, and perfectly suited for most HF and VHF work. As an old timer at my club likes to say, “They work fine on the frequencies they were designed for, and that’s all that matters.”

N-Type Connectors

N-Type connectors

Image Source: Data-alliance.net

I’ve always considered N-Type connectors the gold standard for outdoor and high-frequency ham radio operations. Invented in the 1940s by Paul Neill of Bell Labs, these robust connectors have become essential in both professional setups and serious amateur stations like mine.

N-Type connector overview

The N-Type connector was one of the first RF connectors capable of reliably carrying microwave-frequency signals. I appreciate its medium-sized, threaded, weatherproof design that makes it exceptionally durable for those outdoor installations where other connectors just won’t cut it. The military originally designed these to handle frequencies up to 1 GHz, but modern N-Type connectors routinely handle signals up to 11 GHz, with the precision variants supporting even higher frequencies—up to 18 GHz.

These connectors come with a 5⁄8-24 UNEF threaded coupling that needs proper torque application. You’ll want to tighten them between 15-20 inch-pounds (1.7-2.3 N⋅m) for the best results. This mechanical stability ensures your signal quality stays consistent even in challenging environments, which I’ve confirmed during many field operations.

N-Type male vs female

N-Type connectors follow specific gender configurations that are pretty straightforward:

FeatureN-Type MaleN-Type Female
Center conductorPin extends outwardSocket (receptacle)
Thread locationExternal threads on shellInternal threads
Common placementCable endEquipment panel

Here’s something to watch out for – these connectors come in both 50-ohm and 75-ohm impedance versions, and they are physically incompatible. I learned the hard way that when you connect a 50-ohm socket to a 75-ohm pin, the loose fit compromises contact quality and causes intermittent operation. Trust me, matching impedance versions is crucial if you want reliable connections.

N-Type use cases in ham radio

In my ham radio adventures, I’ve used N-Type connectors primarily for:

  • VHF/UHF transceiver connections, especially for 440 MHz and above
  • High-power repeater and base station installations
  • Long coaxial cable runs where minimizing signal loss is essential
  • Outdoor antenna systems that need weatherproof connections
  • Test equipment interfaces, including spectrum analyzers

These connectors are particularly valuable for microwave bands where you simply can’t tolerate performance degradation.

N-Type benefits and limitations

Benefits:

  • Superior weatherproofing with rubber seals that keep out moisture and dust – perfect for my outdoor antenna farm
  • Exceptional performance at high frequencies up to 11 GHz (standard) and 18 GHz (precision)
  • Higher power handling capacity—about three times greater than SMA connectors
  • Greater voltage handling capability (1500V) compared to SMA (1000V)
  • Rock-solid mechanical stability through robust threaded connections

Limitations:

  • The larger physical size limits use in compact equipment – definitely not fitting on your handheld!
  • Higher cost compared to UHF or BNC connectors – your wallet will feel it
  • Heavier weight impacts portable applications
  • Requires proper torque application for optimal performance
  • Available in both 50-ohm and 75-ohm versions that are physically incompatible

N-Type connectors offer what I consider the perfect balance between performance and durability for serious ham operators working with VHF, UHF, and microwave frequencies in demanding environments. I use them extensively in my outdoor setup where lesser connectors would fail within a season.

Anderson Powerpole Connectors

anderson powerpole connectors

I’ve become a huge fan of Anderson Powerpole connectors over the years. Originally designed for industrial applications, these connectors have completely taken over as the go-to standard for DC power connections in amateur radio. Unlike the RF connectors I’ve discussed so far that transmit signals, these little workhorses handle the power that actually runs our radio equipment.

Powerpole connector overview

The beauty of Anderson Powerpole connectors lies in their unique genderless design. They’re built from tough, impact-resistant polycarbonate housing with silver-plated copper contacts. What’s really impressive is the range of sizes available – from tiny ones handling 15A all the way up to monsters that can manage 350A, accommodating wire sizes from skinny #20 AWG (0.75 mm²) to thick 3/0 (70 mm²) cables.

For most of us ham operators, the standard 15/45 amp housings are what you’ll typically encounter. These are rated for up to 600V DC or AC, which is more than enough for any ham radio setup I’ve ever seen. Each connector has two parts – a plastic housing and a metal contact. I particularly like that the housings come in different colors, making it easy to identify different voltages or applications. I usually stick with red and black for simplicity’s sake.

Powerpole male vs female

Here’s where these connectors really shine compared to everything else I’ve used. Unlike traditional connectors that have distinct male and female ends, Powerpoles use a genderless design. This brilliant approach eliminates polarity concerns while still giving us standardized connections. The housings connect via molded-in dovetails that slide together, allowing various configurations.

I’ve noticed the contacts float slightly inside their housings when properly installed. This isn’t a defect – it’s actually a clever feature that creates a self-cleaning action when connections are made and broken, which helps maintain reliable electrical contact over time. Trust me, this makes a big difference after repeated use in the field.

Powerpole use cases in ham radio

These connectors really caught on in ham radio after being adopted by emergency communication groups like ARES and RACES. The standardization is a game-changer during emergencies or public service events, allowing equipment from different operators to work together without adapter cables.

In my own shack, I use Powerpoles for:

  • Connecting my transceivers to power supplies
  • Building a modular power distribution system for my portable setup
  • All my mobile station connections
  • Battery hookups for field operations

Powerpole benefits and limitations

The benefits are substantial. Their genderless design prevents those frustrating reverse polarity connections that can fry equipment. I love how the stackable housings let me create custom multi-pole configurations for special applications. The color-coded housings have saved me from making wiring mistakes more times than I care to admit.

These connectors are remarkably durable too. The contacts are rated for 100,000 no-load insertions and 250 hot-plugs at full load. That’s way more than I’ll ever need! The self-securing design with stainless steel springs creates a robust contact force that hasn’t failed me yet.

That said, they’re not perfect. They cost more than simpler connector types, which can add up when you’re outfitting an entire station. You’ll also need proper crimping tools for the best results – those cheap crimpers just don’t cut it. I learned that lesson the hard way. But that doesn’t mean you have to break the bank. The IWISS iCrimp model shown above is pretty dang good!

Another thing to remember is they’re not really meant for permanent installations. They actually need regular use to maintain good contact. I’ve also had them disconnect when not properly secured with retention clips, which can be frustrating during field operations. I use them for my permanent install in my shack, but I always disconnect them when the equipment is not in use.

Despite these minor drawbacks, I honestly can’t imagine going back to any other power connector system for my ham radio equipment. Once you go Powerpole, there’s really no turning back!

Phone Plugs (TS, TRS, TRRS)

Phone plug connectors

Image Source: ProVideo Coalition

I’ve always found it interesting how phone plugs made their way from the audio world into our ham radio setups. Unlike the RF connectors we’ve discussed so far, these audio connectors serve entirely different functions, but they’re absolutely critical in many ham radio operations.

Phone plug overview

When looking at phone plugs, I break them down into three main types based on how many conductors they have. The simplest is the TS (Tip-Sleeve) connector with just two contact points – perfect for basic mono signals like connecting a simple key for Morse code. The TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve) adds a third conductor, which gives you either balanced mono or unbalanced stereo capabilities. Then there’s the TRRS (Tip-Ring-Ring-Sleeve) with four conductors, which I find particularly useful when I need to combine stereo audio with a microphone signal for certain digital modes.

You’ll find these in two common sizes: the smaller 3.5mm (⅛”) plugs that are everywhere in portable equipment, and the chunkier 6.35mm (¼”) versions that I prefer for my base station connections. The larger ones just feel more substantial and tend to make better contact in my experience.

TS, TRS, TRRS male vs female

Unlike some of the more confusing RF connectors we’ve covered, phone plugs have straightforward gender identification:

Connector TypeMale CharacteristicsFemale Characteristics
TSTwo sections (tip and sleeve)Receptacle with two contact points
TRSThree sections separated by two insulating bandsReceptacle with three contact points
TRRSFour sections separated by three insulating bandsReceptacle with four contact points

The female receptacles usually sit on your radio or equipment panel, while the male plugs typically terminate your cables. Simple, right? No confusing inner/outer threads or pin/socket arrangements to worry about.

Phone plug use cases in ham radio

I use these connectors all over my station:

  • For connecting headphones when I need to monitor signals without bothering everyone else in the house
  • Microphone inputs for my base stations (that classic ¼” mic plug has been around forever)
  • Linking my computer to the radio for digital modes (I’ve tried several interface setups, and they all use these plugs somewhere)
  • CW keying – both my straight key and paddle connect with these
  • Various control connections between different pieces of equipment

Phone plug benefits and limitations

The biggest advantage of these plugs is that they’re everywhere! Need a replacement at 11 PM? Any 24-hour store likely has something that will work. They’re standardized and incredibly easy to connect – just push them in until they click.

That said, they’re far from perfect. I’ve had many frustrating moments when a phone plug has popped out during an important contact. They have no locking mechanism, which is their biggest drawback in my opinion. I’ve learned the hard way that you need to secure the cables to prevent accidental disconnection.

Another issue is that their exposed conductors can short out if you’re not careful. I once accidentally dropped a TRS plug across a metal surface while it was connected, and the resulting short wasn’t good for my equipment.

For TRS connectors, I’ve noticed they typically drop about 6dB in signal when connected to balanced inputs – something to keep in mind if you’re setting up audio interfaces.

Despite these issues, I still find these plugs indispensable in my ham shack. They may not be as specialized as our RF connectors, but they get the job done for audio connections day in and day out.

TNC Connectors

TNC connectors

Image Source: Amazon.com

I first encountered TNC (Threaded Neill-Concelman) connectors when I was setting up a mobile rig in my truck. After losing connection on a bumpy road trip with a regular BNC connector, I switched to TNC and never looked back. These connectors basically take everything good about BNC and add threads – solving that annoying disconnection problem when you’re bouncing down a dirt road.

TNC connector overview

Think of TNC connectors as the more reliable cousin of the BNC connector. They were specifically designed to improve performance at microwave frequencies, and they’re rock-solid from DC all the way up to 11 GHz. I’ve found these 50-ohm impedance connectors absolutely excel when you need something that won’t come loose in challenging environments.

What makes them special is their construction – they have an external metal shell, center pin, dielectric insulator, coupling nut, ground ring, and usually a sealing gasket for weatherproofing. This creates a seriously waterproof connector that maintains signal integrity even when everything’s vibrating like crazy. For my mobile setup, this has been a game-changer during stormy weather.

TNC male vs female

Telling TNC genders apart is pretty straightforward once you know what to look for:

FeatureTNC MaleTNC Female
ThreadingInternal threadsExternal threads
Center elementPin extends outwardReceptacle (socket)
Common locationDevice endCable end

Just to make things interesting (thanks again, electronics industry!), there are also Reverse Polarity TNC (RP-TNC) connectors with opposite center conductor configurations – RP-TNC male has a central receptacle while the female has a pin. And no, standard and reverse polarity versions won’t mate with each other. I learned that one the hard way after an expensive online purchase.

TNC use cases in ham radio

In my experience, TNC connectors shine in several key areas:

  • Mobile setups where vibration would kill other connections
  • Microwave work where signal integrity is make-or-break
  • Outdoor installations where you need waterproof connections
  • Radar systems that demand reliable performance

I especially like using TNC connectors in my vehicle installations. Nothing’s more frustrating than losing a connection just because you hit a pothole, and TNCs solve that problem beautifully.

TNC benefits and limitations

Benefits:

  • Way better vibration resistance than BNC connectors
  • Excellent weatherproofing with those sealing gaskets
  • Impressive durability with 500+ connection cycles
  • Stays solid even when everything’s shaking

Limitations:

  • Bulkier and heavier than SMA connectors
  • Picky about what coax cables they work with
  • More expensive than non-threaded options (I’ve paid nearly twice as much)
  • The right-angled versions lose a bit more signal than straight ones

To be honest, I think the benefits outweigh the limitations for most situations where I need reliability. Yes, they cost more upfront, but I’ve never had to replace a TNC connector due to failure, which is more than I can say for some other connector types I’ve used over the years.

7/16 DIN Connectors

When it comes to serious, professional-grade RF connections, the 7/16 DIN connector is what I’d call the heavyweight champion. I first encountered these beasts when I was setting up a repeater station a few years back, and I’ve been impressed ever since. These connectors were originally developed in Europe during the 1960s for military applications, and they’ve gradually found their way into commercial and amateur radio systems where signal quality absolutely cannot be compromised.

7/16 DIN connector overview

The name “7/16 DIN” isn’t just some random designation – it actually tells you exactly what you’re dealing with. The “7” refers to the 7mm outer diameter of the inner contact, while the “16” indicates the 16mm inner diameter of the outer contact. Pretty straightforward, right?

These 50Ω threaded RF connectors were specifically engineered to reduce something called passive intermodulation (PIM) – which is basically unwanted signal mixing that happens when multiple transmitters are operating. They’re secured with a substantial 29mm external thread with 1.5mm pitch, giving them exceptional mechanical stability. The kind you can really count on when it matters.

I’ve found these connectors particularly useful for frequencies ranging from DC all the way up to 7.5 GHz. They’re standardized under IEC 61169-4, so you know exactly what you’re getting regardless of manufacturer.

7/16 DIN male vs female

Identifying the gender of these connectors is pretty straightforward:

FeatureMaleFemale
ThreadingExternal threadsInternal threads
Mounting optionsCable-endCable-end, bulkhead, 4-hole flange
Connector stylesStraight, right-angleTypically straight only

One thing I’ve learned the hard way – both versions require proper torque application for optimal performance. You can’t just hand-tighten these like you might with a PL-259. I use a torque wrench to make sure I get it just right. They come with various attachment methods including crimp, clamp, and solder connections.

7/16 DIN use cases in ham radio

In my experience, these connectors really shine in high-power transmitter setups and repeater stations. If you’ve ever tried to operate in a busy RF environment, you’ll appreciate their superior performance in:

  • RF sites with multiple transmitters sharing an antenna (where lesser connectors would create a mess of intermod)
  • Base station connections where signal loss just isn’t acceptable
  • Outdoor installations where Mother Nature throws her worst at your equipment
  • Applications where you need absolutely pristine signal quality without interference

7/16 DIN benefits and limitations

The benefits of these connectors are pretty impressive. Their 5kV peak power rating blows away the 10kW limit of N-type connectors. I’ve used both extensively, and the difference in intermodulation rejection is remarkable – these connectors keep signals clean in environments that would cause others to fold.

But let’s be honest about the trade-offs. These connectors are big – much larger than your typical SMA or even N-type. They take up more installation space, which can be an issue in compact setups. You’ll also need tools to connect and disconnect them since the threaded design requires wrenches for proper mating. I always keep a couple of the right-sized wrenches in my toolkit just for these.

And then there’s the cost. The precision engineering behind these connectors doesn’t come cheap. They’re significantly more expensive than more common alternatives. But as with most things in radio, you get what you pay for. When signal integrity is absolutely critical, the investment is worth every penny.

F-Type Connectors

If you’ve ever connected a TV to cable or satellite, you’ve already used F-Type connectors. These ubiquitous little connectors have dominated consumer electronics for decades, and I’ve found them surprisingly useful in certain ham radio applications.

F-Type connector overview

The F-Type connector uses a simple 3/8-32UNEF threaded design with a consistent 75-ohm impedance. What I love about these connectors is their straightforward design – the center conductor of the coaxial cable itself forms the center pin. No extra parts needed! This means they’re incredibly cheap to make, yet they work amazingly well up to 1 GHz, and some higher-end versions can handle up to 4 GHz.

I’ve found F-Type connectors primarily work with RG-59/U and RG-6/U cables – the same ones used for cable TV. The screw-on mechanism keeps them securely attached, which is one feature I really appreciate when I’m setting up temporary stations.

F-Type male vs female

When identifying F-Type connector genders, I follow these simple rules:

FeatureF-Type MaleF-Type Female
ThreadingInternal threads (captive nut)External threads
Center conductorCable center wire extends as pinSocket for receiving pin
Common placementCable endsEquipment, wall plates

The female connector typically has external threads around a socket, while the male has the center wire sticking out with an internal thread. Easy enough once you’ve worked with them!

F-Type use cases in ham radio

Even though they weren’t designed specifically for ham radio, I’ve found F-Type connectors useful for:

  • Connecting amateur television (ATV) equipment – they work great here!
  • Using consumer satellite equipment in my ham station
  • Quick field setups when I need to grab whatever cables are available
  • Repurposing commercial equipment for ham use

F-Type benefits and limitations

These connectors have some real advantages. For one, they’re dirt cheap compared to specialized RF connectors. I’ve picked up bags of them for just a few bucks at hardware stores. They’re also nice and compact, and available everywhere – I’ve never had trouble finding them even in small towns.

That said, they do have limitations. I’ve learned the hard way that they’re not great above 1 GHz for serious applications. There’s also the impedance mismatch issue – most ham gear wants 50Ω, while F-Type connectors are designed for 75Ω systems. This mismatch can cause signal loss in some applications.

Power handling is another concern – they typically handle only 40-50 volts, which is fine for receiving but not ideal for transmitting. And definitely don’t use them outdoors without proper weatherproofing – I made that mistake once during a field day, and the resulting corrosion was not pretty!

Comparison Table

Looking at all these different connectors can get pretty overwhelming, right? I know when I first started getting serious about ham radio, I would mix up connector types constantly. One time I ordered what I thought was the right adapter online only to find it was completely wrong when it arrived three days before a big field day event. Talk about frustrating!

To save you from making the same mistakes I did, I’ve put together this handy comparison table. It summarizes everything we’ve covered so far and lets you see at a glance which connector might work best for your specific setup. I refer to something like this all the time in my own shack.

The frequency ranges shown here are particularly important – I’ve learned the hard way that using the wrong connector type for a specific frequency can lead to significant signal loss. And while the impedance might seem like a small detail, those 50Ω versus 75Ω differences matter a lot when you’re trying to get every last bit of performance out of your system.

Ham Radio Connector Comparison Table

Connector TypeFrequency RangeImpedancePrimary ApplicationsKey BenefitsNotable LimitationsGender Identification
SMA (Standard & RP)DC to 18 GHz (standard), up to 26.5 GHz (precision)50ΩHandheld transceivers, Microwave systems, Test equipmentCompact size, Secure threaded coupling, Excellent high-frequency capabilityLimited power handling, Limited mating cyclesStandard Male: Inner pin with inside threads; Female: Center sleeve with outside threads; RP: Reversed pin/socket configuration
MCXDC to 12 GHz (typical use up to 6 GHz)50Ω or 75ΩSDR receivers, GPS devices, Compact equipmentUltra-compact size, Quick snap-on coupling, 500 mating cyclesLess mechanically secure, Limited availabilityMale: Outer contact with 6 radial slots; Female: Inner diameter 3.43-3.48mm
BNCDC to 4 GHz (50Ω), up to 2 GHz (75Ω)50Ω or 75ΩTest equipment, Antenna connections, Station componentsQuick quarter-turn connection, Good EMI resistanceNot weatherproof, Limited power handlingMale: Housing with bayonet; Female: Two lugs (“ears”)
UHF (PL-259/SO-239)Best below 200 MHzNon-constant (≈65Ω)HF/VHF equipment, CB radio, Marine radioRugged construction, High power handling (>1kW), Easy assemblyPoor above 300 MHz, Not weatherproofPL-259 (Male): Internal threads/center pin; SO-239 (Female): External threads/socket
N-TypeDC to 11 GHz (standard), up to 18 GHz (precision)50Ω or 75ΩVHF/UHF transceivers, Outdoor installationsWeatherproof, High power handling, Excellent RF performanceLarge size, Higher costMale: External threads/pin; Female: Internal threads/socket
Anderson PowerpoleDC power onlyN/ADC power distribution, Mobile setups, Emergency commsGenderless design, Color-coding, 100,000 insertion ratingRequires special crimping tools, Higher costGenderless design – identical connectors mate together
Phone Plugs (TS/TRS/TRRS)Audio frequenciesN/AHeadphones, Microphones, CW keyingWidely available, Easy connectionNo locking mechanism, Prone to accidental disconnectionMale: Plug with sections; Female: Socket/jack
TNCDC to 11 GHz50ΩMobile communications, Microwave applicationsVibration resistant, WeatherproofLarger than SMA, Higher costMale: Internal threads/pin; Female: External threads/socket
7/16 DINDC to 7.5 GHz50ΩHigh-power transmitters, Repeater stationsSuperior PIM performance, 5kV peak power ratingLarge size, Requires tools for connectionMale: External threads; Female: Internal threads
F-TypeUp to 1 GHz (some to 4 GHz)75ΩAmateur television, Satellite equipmentCost-effective, Compact sizeLimited power handling, Not optimized above 1 GHzMale: Internal threads/center wire pin; Female: External threads/socket

Feel free to print this out and keep it handy in your shack – I know I did when I was first getting familiar with all these different connectors. It’s saved me countless hours of frustration and probably quite a bit of money on wrong connector purchases too!

Conclusion

After all these years working with radios, I’ve found that understanding connectors is absolutely essential for any successful ham setup. I’ve learned the hard way that each connector has its sweet spot. The trusty old UHF connectors (PL-259 and SO-239) that fill my junk box are workhorses for high-power stuff below 200 MHz, while those N-Type connectors I use on my outdoor antennas give me great weatherproofing and solid performance up to 11 GHz. The tiny SMA connectors on my handheld radios deliver excellent high-frequency capability in a compact package, though they definitely can’t handle the power of their bigger cousins.

Physical characteristics matter a ton in the real world. I’ve had connections fail during mobile operations until I switched to TNC connectors with their threaded coupling that resists vibration. For my power distribution, Anderson Powerpoles have been a game-changer – their genderless design means I never hook up power backwards anymore (which I did once and smoked a radio – not fun!). When I set up at crowded field days, those specialized 7/16 DIN connectors really prove their worth with superior intermodulation rejection.

Your choice of connector affects way more than just how things hook together. I found this out when I left some cheaper connectors exposed to the elements for a season – what a mess! Now I only use properly sealed N-Type or TNC connectors outdoors. For my microwave experiments above 1 GHz, I’ve learned that precision-engineered connectors maintaining consistent impedance make all the difference between success and frustration.

There’s always a balancing act when choosing connectors. Sure, I grab F-Type connectors when I’m on a budget (and they work fine for many applications), but I’ve learned that signal integrity needs to come first. I’ve blown enough money replacing damaged equipment to know that mechanical durability pays for itself, especially if you operate in challenging environments like I often do.

The bottom line? Connectors aren’t just afterthoughts – they’re critical components of your radio system. Take the time to pick the right ones based on your operating frequencies, power levels, where you’ll be using them, and what they need to connect to. Understanding these ten connector types has made my station more reliable and helped me avoid a lot of headaches over the years. Trust me, your future self will thank you for making smart connector choices today.

The Unexpected Things You Can Do With Ham Radio

Ham radio enthusiasts can involve themselves in over 100 different activities that go way beyond simple communication. Most newcomers never find out that amateur radio operators bounce signals off the moon. They participate in competitive “fox hunts” to locate hidden transmitters and build their own high-performance radio kits. These kits operate at just 5 watts across multiple bands. Such unexpected applications show the hobby’s remarkable diversity.

A ham radio license opens doors to a world of specialized pursuits, contrary to what many believe. Radio operators create mesh networks that work independently of traditional internet infrastructure. They track high-altitude balloons equipped with APRS transmitters and serve as trained SKYWARN volunteers who spot and report severe weather conditions. The Automatic Packet Reporting System (APRS) works like a social media platform for radio enthusiasts to transmit location and weather data. On top of that, contests turn ordinary radio operation into a thrilling global radio party. Operators connect with as many stations as possible within strict timeframes.

This piece looks at these fascinating yet rarely discussed aspects of ham radio. The century-old technology continues to offer state-of-the-art experiences for those who look beyond simple voice communication.

Explore the skies: Ham radio and space communication

Unexpected things ham radio

Image Source: Space

Amateur radio operators can reach beyond Earth’s atmosphere through space communication, which stands out as one of their most remarkable achievements. Ham operators can exchange signals with astronauts, orbiting satellites, and bounce signals off the moon using simple equipment and proper licensing.

Talk to the International Space Station (ISS)

The Amateur Radio on the International Space Station (ARISS) program has connected Earth-bound operators with astronauts circling above since November 2000. Licensed astronauts often spend their free time making random, unscheduled contacts with ham operators around the world. The ISS station uses a Kenwood D710GA transceiver that works with both 2-meter and 70-cm operations and puts out up to 25 watts of power.

You’ll need these items to contact the ISS:

  • A 2-meter FM transceiver that outputs 25-100 watts
  • A directional antenna that tracks the station’s movement
  • The right frequencies: 145.80 MHz for worldwide downlink, 144.49 MHz for uplink in the Americas and Asia, and 145.20 MHz for uplink in Europe, Russia, and Africa

Use amateur satellites for long-distance QSOs

Dozens of amateur radio satellites circle Earth, acting as “repeaters in space.” These satellites help operators set impressive records, including contacts spanning over 4,400 km through the ISS FM repeater. AMSAT develops and maintains these satellites, making distant contacts possible with simple equipment.

FM satellites give newcomers the best starting point. These satellites work as cross-band repeaters – you transmit on one band (uplink) and receive on another (downlink). A dual-band handheld radio paired with a portable Yagi antenna like the Arrow II often gets amazing results.

Try Earth-Moon-Earth (EME) or ‘moonbounce’ communication

The sort of thing I love about ham radio is Earth-Moon-Earth (EME) communication, also called “moonbounce.” This method uses the moon’s surface to reflect radio signals, creating a path that stretches about 500,000 miles round-trip.

Advanced technology has made EME available to operators with decent VHF station capabilities, though it once needed huge antenna systems and high-power transmitters. Notwithstanding that, moonbounce comes with unique challenges: the moon reflects poorly, needs tracking as it moves, and signals face Doppler shift, libration fading, and polarization changes. Operators can hear their signals come back after about 2.5 seconds – an exciting proof of this amazing achievement.

Track satellites with free software like Gpredict

Knowing exactly when satellites or the moon will be in range makes space communication successful. Gpredict offers a powerful, free solution that shows live satellite positions on maps, tables, and radar-style polar plots.

This software lets operators group satellites into custom visualization modules, watch multiple satellites at once from different locations, and see future passes with detailed information about each chance. Gpredict becomes especially useful because it handles Doppler tracking and controls antenna rotors through Hamlib integration.

Space communication shows what ham radio operators can achieve beyond regular ground contacts. Operators can reach astronomical distances with simple equipment, good software, and patience.

If ham radio in space is your thing, here is a complete article on just that: Beyond Earth: Practical Techniques for Ham Radio Space Communication.

Track, map, and move: Real-time data with APRS

Ham radio equipment becomes a powerful tracking and data collection tool through the Automatic Packet Reporting System (APRS). This system differs from voice communication by sending digital packets with coordinates, weather readings, and telemetry through radio frequencies. The network operates without depending on internet connectivity.

Send your GPS location over radio

APRS lets operators share their exact position with a straightforward setup that includes a transceiver, GPS receiver, and a tracker – a small computer device. Any vehicle with this equipment can send out location, speed, and course details in compact data packets. Nearby receiving stations (iGates) and digipeaters pick up these signals and boost coverage by rebroadcasting them.

This feature proves useful to ham operators during public events such as marathons, parades, and emergency responses where knowing team locations matters. Digital maps show each station’s position, which helps coordinators watch moving vehicles immediately without cellular networks.

Use APRS for weather and telemetry data

APRS does more than track locations – it excels at environmental monitoring. Weather stations linked to APRS transmitters send temperature, humidity, pressure, and wind speed readings through the network. The system also manages complex telemetry, including analog measurements like voltage and temperature, plus digital states such as on/off conditions and alarms.

Solar-powered weather stations represent a more sophisticated use case. These stations report battery voltage, signal strength, and light intensity that services like aprs.fi automatically turn into graphs. Remote equipment or condition monitoring becomes easier without cellular coverage.

Follow balloon launches and mobile stations

Tracking moving objects showcases APRS at its best, especially with high-altitude balloon launches. Teams of ham operators attach light APRS transmitters to weather balloons to track their trip and find equipment after landing. The 2017 Great American Solar Eclipse saw 148 APRS-equipped balloons tracked across the continental USA.

These balloon trackers often use solar panels and supercapacitors to stay airborne longer. The LightAPRS-W tracker shows what’s possible – it sends APRS on VHF at 0.5-1 watt while broadcasting WSPR signals on HF using just 10 milliwatts, making it trackable from thousands of miles away.

Explore APRS.fi for live tracking

APRS.fi stands as the main platform to view this worldwide network of transmissions. This free service puts all APRS-equipped stations on detailed maps in real-time. You can follow specific callsigns, look at paths from the past week, and calculate distances between points.

Each transmission reveals incredible detail on the platform, from digipeater paths to street-view images showing a moving station’s direction. Operators can adjust their transmitters to reduce position accuracy when privacy matters.

This amazing system proves that ham radio goes way beyond voice calls by creating a worldwide data network that works with modest equipment and simple technical knowledge.

Want to know more about APRS? Here is our article providing more detail: What is APRS: A Beginner’s Quick Start Guide to Ham Radio Tracking and once you get into it, here is a great article combining APRS and easy DIY electronics: Building Your Own APRS iGate with Raspberry Pi: A Complete Guide.

Find the signal: Direction finding and fox hunting

Unique things ham radio

Image Source: sarcnet

Ham radio becomes an exciting game of hide-and-seek when operators use radio direction finding to track hidden transmitters. The skills learned here go way beyond simple fun and games. They become valuable tools to detect interference and support emergency services.

What is a ‘fox hunt’ and how it works

A fox hunt challenges radio enthusiasts to find hidden radio transmitters (the “foxes”) through radio direction finding methods. The hunt organizers give participants details about frequency and search areas before they start. Hunters track down transmitters by measuring signal direction from different spots and using triangulation. Time limits add extra excitement to some contests. This activity blends technical expertise with outdoor navigation and creates both a mental and physical challenge.

Gear you need: Yagi antennas and attenuators

Success in fox hunting depends on having the right equipment. Directional antennas play a vital role—most hunters prefer Yagi-Uda designs with three to five elements because they pick up signals better from specific directions. Mobile hunters often choose quad antennas that can handle highway speeds. Attenuators become essential as hunters get closer to the transmitter. They help reduce signal strength to keep direction finding possible. Some participants use advanced time difference of arrival systems or Doppler shift gear that shows likely directions through LED displays.

How it helps in interference detection

These skills offer more than just sport value. Radio direction finding gives operators a great way to solve practical problems. It lets them track down interference sources that affect ham stations and home electronics. Skilled operators have successfully located grow light ballasts, halogen light fixtures, and other RFI sources that disrupt communications. Operators can spot interference sources up to half a mile away using specialized loop antennas and receivers.

Join or organize a local ARDF event

Amateur Radio Direction Finding (ARDF) has grown into a worldwide competitive sport with official championships. The International Amateur Radio Union (IARU) runs world championships, including the upcoming IARU World ARDF Championship in Lithuania during August 2025. These events draw everyone from newcomers to seasoned veterans who search for hidden transmitters across forest terrain. ARDF competitions create an exceptional challenge by combining amateur radio knowledge with orienteering skills.

Build it yourself: Kits, SDRs, and DIY projects

wild things ham radio

Image Source: Adventures in RF, Electronics, and General Tinkering

Ham radio enthusiasts find building their own equipment one of the most rewarding challenges. This hands-on aspect combines electronics knowledge with the thrill of making contacts using self-built gear. The hobby opens up endless possibilities beyond regular operation.

Start with QRP transceiver kits from QRP Labs or Elecraft

QRP (low power) transceivers serve as a perfect gateway into DIY radio. QRP Labs delivers amazing options like their QMX+, a feature-packed 160-6m 5W multi-mode transceiver kit including embedded SDR and USB sound card for just $125. Their QDX digital transceiver kit covers five bands and puts out 5W for only $69. So, these affordable kits let you communicate worldwide with minimal power.

Elecraft, a prominent name in quality equipment, offers modular no-soldering kits that include their legendary K2 and K2/100 all-band CW/SSB transceiver kits. These kits come with complete instructions that suit builders with simple soldering skills.

Experiment with Software Defined Radios (SDRs)

Software Defined Radio uses digital signal processing to detect radio signals. This technology has changed how hams interact with RF. SDRs provide remarkable performance advantages—notably “cliff-walled” bandpass filtering and “scalpel-sharp” notch filtering capabilities. A SDR receiver can make your trusted dipole work like a multi-element beam, thanks to advanced digital signal processing.

For more detailed information on SDR, read our article: Software Defined Radio: What You Need to Know About SDR.

Use Raspberry Pi or Arduino for digital modes

Raspberry Pi single-board computers and Arduino microcontroller boards have changed the game for ham radio projects. These compact computers power everything from APRS displays to web servers and media centers. Arduino boards shine at data collection, telemetry, and signal generation. A Raspberry Pi starter kit gives you everything needed to build sophisticated radio projects for about $50-90.

Create your own antennas and test them in the field

Building antennas at home saves money and teaches valuable lessons. You can make simple dipoles with:

  • Speaker wire (two conductors easily separated)
  • A balun (commercial or homemade)
  • Simple measuring tools
  • Optional insulators (“dog bones”)

Each side’s measurement in feet comes from the formula 468/frequency. Once you build your antenna, you will need to tune it, so check out our article How to Tune an Antenna: The Science of SWR and Return Loss.

Where to find kits: QRPkits.com, TAPR.org, HF Signals

Several sources offer excellent kits beyond the manufacturers mentioned above. The Four State QRP Group sells “must-have” QRP kits that combine good engineering with easy assembly. TAPR (Tucson Amateur Packet Radio Corp) focuses on technical projects and works with the HPSDR group to develop open SDR platforms. HF Signals produces the µBITX, a general coverage 3-30 MHz transceiver kit that needs no soldering and costs just $150.

You can even start really small with kits like the S-Pixie CW QRP Ham Amateur Shortwave Radio Transceiver which goes for under $20, or build your own Antenna tuner with the Malahit ATU-100 Antenna Tuner for around $40.

Go digital: Modes that go beyond voice

Interesting things ham radio

Image Source: QRZ Forums

Digital modes take ham radio experience way beyond traditional voice contacts. Operators can now communicate in ways that conventional methods cannot match. Your radio transforms from a simple voice device into a sophisticated data platform that achieves remarkable feats.

FT8: Communicate with low power across the globe

FT8 has maybe become the most popular digital mode on ham radio bands since its 2017 introduction. The mode works best “multi-hop Es where signals may be weak and fading,” and shows excellent results during the current solar minimum. What makes FT8 extraordinary lies in knowing how to decode signals with a signal-to-noise ratio as low as -20 dB in a 2500 Hz bandwidth. Operators can now make contacts that voice methods simply cannot achieve.

Small stations with basic antennas can work DXCC (100+ countries) just like operators with massive antenna farms. FT8 makes contacts possible on “dead bands” and helps operators work DX on 160m without complex station setups.

WSPR: Test propagation with milliwatt signals

WSPR (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter, pronounced “whisper”) takes weak signal communication to new heights. The system detects signals with SNR values down to -34 dB. WSPR transmitters run on mere milliwatts—hundreds of times less power than typical voice transmission.

Successful decodes automatically upload to a global database and create a live map of radio propagation. Operators worldwide test different antennas by comparing reception reports from monitoring stations.

Packet BBS and Winlink for email over radio

Winlink brings something amazing—email over radio without internet infrastructure. The worldwide messaging system includes attachments, position reports, and weather bulletins.

Gateway stations keep communication flowing through radio networks and the internet when disasters strike and regular networks fail. The system delivers 99.99% uptime with 100% message accuracy.

Try PSK31, RTTY, and other keyboard-to-keyboard modes

Keyboard-to-keyboard modes let operators have real conversations beyond just exchanging signal reports. PSK31, developed in 1998, uses phase shift keying with a bandwidth of just 31 Hz. The narrow bandwidth helps reception under severe conditions.

RTTY (radioteletype) dates back to the 1930s and remains popular especially during contests. JS8Call, a newer mode, enables conversational messaging through a modified FT8 protocol.

These digital modes reshape ham radio into a versatile communication platform that goes way beyond voice capabilities.

Chasing the rain: Ham radio and the weather

strange things ham radio

Image Source: RTL-SDR.com

Weather observation gives ham radio operators exciting activities that range from receiving high-resolution satellite images to joining vital storm tracking networks. These applications show how versatile amateur radio can be beyond simple communication.

Decoding weather satellites

Ham operators can capture stunning images directly from orbiting NOAA and Meteor weather satellites. These satellites transmit on VHF frequencies in the 137 MHz band. NOAA-15 broadcasts at 137.6200 MHz, NOAA-18 at 137.9125 MHz, and NOAA-19 at 137.1000 MHz. The signal bandwidth ranges from 36-38 kHz using FM mode, and receivers need to handle wider signals than typical narrow FM communications.

Operators need three key components to receive these images: a suitable receiver (SDR dongle or dedicated weather satellite receiver), an antenna optimized for 137 MHz (ideally circular polarized), and decoding software. The Quadrifilar Helix Antenna is pretty good as is a good crossed-yagi design. A pre-amplifier helps create clearer images over longer cable runs.

WXtoImg for NOAA satellites and MeteorGIS for Russian Meteor satellites are popular decoding software options. These programs turn the characteristic “washing machine” sound into detailed images that show cloud patterns, landmasses, and temperature data.

Skywarn weather spotters

The National Weather Service’s SKYWARN program is 50 years old and relies on approximately 350,000-400,000 trained spotters who provide vital ground-truth information during severe weather events. Ham radio operators are significant in coordinating reports when other communications fail, though anyone can participate.

SKYWARN nets become active when specific conditions occur, such as severe weather warnings in the area. Spotters report time-sensitive observations that include:

  • Tornadoes, funnel clouds, and wall clouds
  • Wind gusts of 45 MPH or higher and wind damage
  • Hail larger than pea size
  • Flooding of streets, basements, or streams
  • Heavy rainfall (0.75 inches or more in under an hour)
  • Lightning-caused fires or damage

Amateur radio SKYWARN nets use structured protocols. Designated net control stations coordinate information between spotters and NWS offices. Reports must include three key elements during severe conditions: time of occurrence, specific weather event observed, and precise location.

These up-to-the-minute observations help the NWS issue accurate and timely warnings for tornadoes, severe thunderstorms, and flash floods. This shows another influential way ham radio skills serve the community.

Going it alone

This may seem counter-intuitive, but not everything in ham radio has to be done with other people. Yes, ham radio is about communications, and that may infer communications with other people. But there are a ton of things to do without rag-chewing, going to meetings (not THAT kind of meeting, heh), or participating in large events.

There are people out there who get offended when you talk about ham radio without the social aspect, I have even heard people say if you don’t like to be social, you should find another hobby. Some people also seem to think anti-social is something bad or criminal even though the Merriam-Webster dictionary defines it as “averse to the society of others” whereas dictionary.com says “unwilling or unable to associate in a normal or friendly way with other people“.  Personally, I think it is those people who need to find another hobby, amateur radio should be welcoming to everyone, social and antisocial alike.

The good news is that if you don’t want to spend a lot of time interacting with others, you don’t have to!

Conclusion

Ham radio goes way beyond what most people think of as a simple communication device. Our exploration has shown amazing ways this century-old technology stays relevant and versatile. You can bounce signals off the moon and capture high-resolution weather satellite images with simple equipment and proper licensing.

Most operators start out looking for simple communication but soon find a whole universe of specialized activities. Fox hunting helps develop practical skills to detect interference. Building QRP kits gives you technical knowledge and the satisfaction of making contacts with hand-assembled equipment. Modern digital modes like FT8 and WSPR have changed amateur radio. These modes let you make global contacts with minimal power even in tough conditions.

Ham radio differs from other technologies because it works without commercial infrastructure. The systems keep running when internet and cellular networks fail – during emergencies, weather events, or just to be self-reliant. APRS creates a parallel data network for tracking and telemetry. Winlink makes sure emails get delivered whatever the external conditions.

The most exciting part is how ham radio connects state-of-the-art technology with human creativity. Space communication with the ISS, satellite operations, and moonbounce are incredible achievements that regular people can do with simple equipment. Amateur operators get hands-on experience with aspects of telecommunication usually limited to specialists or professionals. They track high-altitude balloons, report severe weather as SKYWARN volunteers, and experiment with software-defined radio.

Next time someone calls ham radio outdated, think about these extraordinary capabilities. Of course, amateur radio lets you talk to people, but on top of that, it opens doors to scientific exploration, technical experiments, and practical emergency skills. This amazing hobby keeps evolving while you retain control – people can understand, modify, and control the technology themselves.

The Best, and Worst, Handheld Ham Radio Brands

Ham Radio Brands

There are a few full ham radio brands or manufactures, and then there are some who build designs from other people, and then there are some who actually buy radios made by someone else and slap their own stickers on them. The question is, who is doing what, and does it matter?

I want to start out with the big boys.

Yaesu

Yaesu Musen Co., Ltd. was founded in 1959 by Sako Hasegawa in the Yaesu district of Tokyo, Japan. Originally focused on producing high-performance radio transceivers for amateur use, Yaesu quickly gained a reputation for quality and innovation. By the 1960s, the brand had entered the global market, particularly the U.S. and Europe, with iconic HF models like the FT-101, which became a standard in many ham shacks for its modular design and robust build.

Over the decades, Yaesu has remained a top-tier brand in amateur radio, pioneering advancements in digital modes and portable gear. The company was rebranded under the Vertex Standard name for a period, but later returned to its core focus under the Yaesu name. Its innovations include the introduction of System Fusion, a digital voice and data mode that competes with D-STAR and DMR. Yaesu’s extensive lineup—from compact HTs like the FT-60R, powerful touchscreen HTs like the FT5DR, and full-featured HF rigs like the FTdx101D—continues to be highly regarded by amateur radio operators worldwide.

Kenwood

Kenwood, originally known as Kasuga Radio Co., Ltd., was founded in 1946 and later became Trio Corporation. The Kenwood name was adopted for international marketing in the 1960s, and eventually the company unified under that brand. Kenwood entered the amateur radio market in the 1950s and rose to prominence with the TS-series HF transceivers. The TS-520, launched in the 1970s, became a benchmark in the ham community for its reliability and performance.

Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, Kenwood continued to lead with advanced multimode transceivers and handhelds. Radios like the TS-940 and TH-79 showcased cutting-edge features for their time. While Kenwood diversified into consumer electronics and car audio, its amateur radio division remained strong, although it has narrowed its product offerings in recent years. Nonetheless, Kenwood radios remain popular, especially in VHF/UHF handheld and mobile categories, and the TS-890S continues its legacy in the HF/50MHz space.

While they no longer manufacture as many handheld models as they once did, the TH-D75 is second to none.

Icom

Icom Incorporated began as Inoue Communication Equipment in 1954, founded by Tokuzo Inoue in Osaka, Japan. The company initially made test equipment but shifted toward radio communications in the late 1950s. By the 1960s, Icom was producing some of its first amateur radio gear, building a loyal following among operators who valued its blend of performance and affordability. The IC-701, introduced in the 1970s, marked Icom’s entry into serious HF gear and solidified its place in ham radio history.

Icom is widely credited with leading innovation in digital amateur communications. It was the first to launch radios supporting the D-STAR digital voice/data protocol, in collaboration with the Japan Amateur Radio League. Icom’s range—from compact HTs like the ID-52A to flagship HF rigs like the IC-7851—showcases a balance of user-friendly design and advanced technology. The IC-7300 and IC-705 have particularly revitalized interest in SDR (Software Defined Radio) among hams and solidified Icom’s status as a leader in the modern era of amateur radio.

Alinco

Alinco, Inc. was established in 1938 but didn’t enter the amateur radio market until the mid-1980s. Initially involved in power tools and industrial equipment, Alinco shifted to radio communications with a line of affordable VHF/UHF handhelds and mobiles. Unlike its larger competitors, Alinco focused on practicality and value, earning a loyal user base among entry-level and budget-conscious hams.

Although not as dominant in the high-end HF market, Alinco has made notable contributions with compact and innovative designs such as the DJ-series handhelds and DR-series mobile radios. The company also introduced some early models with built-in TNCs for packet radio, and its all-mode VHF/UHF base rigs like the DR-135 and DR-735 are still in use today. While often overshadowed by the “big three,” Alinco remains a respected player in the ham community, known for its reliability, simplicity, and good customer support.

China

Over the last decade or so, China has entered the amateur radio market that was all but dominated by Japan. Starting around 2012 with the introduction of the Baofeng UV-5R, affordability was their strength. Today, the overwhelming majority of amateur radio handhelds are manufactured in China, even including brands such as Yaesu attempting to lower costs on their entry level products.

Baofeng

Baofeng, officially known as Baofeng Electronic Co., Ltd., is a Chinese manufacturer headquartered in Shenzhen, China, founded in 2001. The company originally focused on producing affordable two-way radios for commercial, industrial, and public safety use. However, Baofeng gained global recognition in the amateur radio community around 2012 with the release of the UV-5R, a compact dual-band (VHF/UHF) handheld transceiver that quickly became a disruptive force in the market. Priced far below competitors—often under $40 USDthe UV-5R opened the door for many new amateur radio operators who previously saw the hobby as cost-prohibitive.

The UV-5R and its variants (like the BF-F8HP, UV-82, and GT-3) offered basic but practical functionality, long battery life, and compatibility with open-source programming tools like CHIRP. Despite lacking advanced features and being known for inconsistent quality control and marginal RF cleanliness, the radios became wildly popular among preppers, beginners, and budget-conscious hams. Baofeng’s aggressive pricing and mass availability through platforms like Amazon and AliExpress played a significant role in lowering the entry barrier for amateur radio worldwide.

However, Baofeng’s massive success also made it a target for widespread cloning and counterfeiting, especially of the UV-5R model. Numerous small manufacturers across China began producing radios that either copied Baofeng’s design exactly or only slightly altered it, sometimes using names like Pofung, Bofeng, Baoteng, or entirely unbranded names. Many of these clones went a step further, using falsified packaging, stickers, user manuals, and labels to intentionally pass off the radios as genuine Baofeng products. This created confusion in the marketplace, with users unknowingly buying counterfeit units that often had lower quality components, poor performance, or outright failures to meet regulatory emission standards.

Even today, it can be difficult for consumers to differentiate between authentic Baofeng radios and well-made fakes, especially when buying from third-party sellers online. While Baofeng does have legitimate international partners—such as BaofengTech in the United States—unauthorized sales channels continue to circulate questionable products. This counterfeit proliferation has not only hurt Baofeng’s reputation in some circles but also contributed to scrutiny from regulators like the FCC, which has occasionally banned or restricted the sale of specific Baofeng models for noncompliance. Despite these issues, Baofeng remains the most visible and influential name in the ultra-low-cost handheld ham radio market.

Other Chinese manufacturers

There are a lot more Chinese radio manufacturers, substantially more than I could ever dream of keeping track of. Part of the problem is that a company will spring up, sell a ton of radios (probably cheap clones of better radios), and then close up shop, move offices, create a new company, and do it all over again.

That is not to say that all Chinese radio companies are bad. While I absolutely am not going to trade in my Kenwood, Yaesu, or Icom radios for something made in China, I am also not going to argue that the Chinese radios are the king of bang-for-your-buck in the ham radio world.

Chinese Manufacturing & Design Overview

BrandManufactures Own RadiosDesigns Own RadiosRebrands / ODM ModelsNotes
BaofengYes⚠️ Limited (basic design changes)Yes (They are OEMs for others)Operated by Fujian Nanan Baofeng Electronics
TYTYesYesSome shared ODMsMakes radios for other brands too
WouxunYesYesRarelyKnown for better QC than Baofeng
RetevisYes (via HYS/Quanzhou Retevis)⚠️ Some custom designsMany shared designsShares models with TYT, Baofeng
RadioddityNo⚠️ Some collaborationYesRebrands TYT, Baofeng, Qixiang (AnyTone), etc.
TIDRADIONo❌ NoYesRebrands Baofeng and Retevis models
AnyToneYesYesODMs for othersBrand of Qixiang Electron Science
QYTYesYesSome rebrandsMakes mostly mobile radios, a few handhelds
Abbree⚠️ Possibly partial⚠️ Some design variationHeavily rebrandedMilitary-style long antenna kits popular
Samcom⚠️ Likely partial❌ NoYesMarketed for business and GMRS use
FonghooNo❌ NoYesResells various brands under its label
Zastone❌ (Mostly)❌ NoYesMany models identical to Baofeng/Wouxun
Ailunce⚠️ Partial⚠️ Some unique radiosRelated to RetevisHigher-end DMR line from Retevis
Luiton⚠️ Some capability⚠️ Some designsYesOften cloned Baofeng models
BTECHNo (USA-based)⚠️ Helps improve firmwareBaofeng OEMBaoFeng Tech USA; tweaks Baofeng radios for FCC market
JJCCNo❌ NoYesBudget rebrand, often of TIDRADIO/Baofeng
PuxingYesYesOccasionally used by othersOnce more prominent; quality close to Wouxun
LEIXENYesYesSome OEM clientsKnown for odd form-factor radios
FDCYesYesLimited OEMsFeidaxin; now less active in the market
HesenateNo❌ NoYesMostly Amazon resales under new names
Radtel⚠️ No (partners with factories)⚠️ Some design input✅ YesCollaborates with Quanzhou factories; offers branded radios

Conclusions

I hope this has helped you understand the ham radio landscape, both currently and historically. Remember, there is no such thing as a bad radio as long as it is legal, and it does what you need it to do. Knowing who makes what for who may help you get a better deal, and know where to go if you need support.

73s!

10 Types of Ham Radio Antennas: Which Is Best For You?

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen new hams struggle with poor reception, only to discover they’re using that stock “rubber duck” antenna that came with their radio because they have no idea what the different types of ham radio antennas are. Want to know a simple secret? Swapping that stubby little thing for a decent antenna like the Nagoya NA-771 or better yet, a Diamond SRJ77CA can make your radio perform like it’s an entirely different beast.

Choosing the right antenna has honestly made more difference in my radio operations than spending hundreds on fancy transceivers. I’ve tried pretty much all the antenna types I’m covering in this article, and each has its place depending on what you’re trying to do.

For those just getting started, the options can be pretty overwhelming. A basic wire dipole (which I actually recommend most beginners start with) can be built for around $60 if you buy all the parts. On the flip side, commercial vertical antennas typically start at $250 for decent quality. But price isn’t everything when picking the right antenna for your situation.

Size is another huge consideration. Take the popular G5RV antenna – it stretches about 102 feet across, which might work great if you’ve got a decent yard but is completely impractical for apartment dwellers. The End Fed Half Wave is even longer at around 135 feet for 80 meters. Meanwhile, I’ve gotten surprisingly good results from roll-up J-pole antennas that can fit in your pocket when not in use.

Whether you’re trying to set up in a tiny apartment or you’ve got acres of land to work with, I’ve broken down the 10 most common ham radio antennas with a focus on what works well without emptying your wallet. For each antenna type, I’ll share what bands they work on, how hard they are to build yourself, what they’ll cost you, and most importantly – what kind of performance you can actually expect.

End Fed Half Wave Antenna

end fed ham radio antenna

Image Source: Reddit

I’ve been using End Fed Half Wave (EFHW) antennas for years now, and they’re honestly one of the most versatile options out there. I recommend them to both beginners and experienced operators because they give you multiband capability without all the complexity of trap systems or needing tons of space.

End Fed Half Wave Antenna Description

An EFHW is pretty straightforward – it’s basically a single wire cut to exactly half the wavelength of the lowest band you want to operate on. For a 40-meter EFHW, that’s about 66-67 feet of wire. What makes these different from your standard dipole is how they connect to your radio. Instead of feeding it in the middle, you connect at one end using a special matching transformer – usually a 49:1 unun. This clever little device converts the antenna’s high impedance (somewhere between 2,500-5,000 ohms) down to the 50 ohms your transceiver wants to see.

The first EFHW I built included a small capacitor (around 100-150 pF) in the transformer to improve the high-frequency response. I’ve found this helps compensate for transformer leakage inductance. Sometimes you’ll need a short counterpoise wire, though I’ve seen plenty of setups where the coax shield itself acts as the counterpoise.

End Fed Half Wave Antenna Frequency Range

The thing I love most about my EFHW is that it naturally works on multiple bands. A wire I cut for 40 meters also works great on:

  • 20 meters (as a full wave)
  • 15 meters (as three half-wavelengths)
  • 10 meters (as a double full wave)

This is a huge advantage over center-fed dipoles, which only work well on odd harmonics. The EFHW happily performs on both odd AND even harmonics. I’ve seen some commercial EFHW antennas that cover from 80 all the way to 10 meters with SWR readings of 1.2 or better across all those bands after proper tuning.

End Fed Half Wave Antenna Pros and Cons

Pros:I’ve found these antennas incredibly easy to set up – often taking me just minutes. You can configure them in all sorts of ways – horizontal, sloper, inverted V, or even an inverted L if you’re tight on space. The single-point connection means you only need one support instead of three for a traditional dipole. And getting multiband operation without any traps is a huge plus. I take mine on SOTA (Summits On The Air) activations because they’re so lightweight and portable. They’re also pretty cheap compared to some fancier antenna types.

Cons:I have to be honest – I’ve experienced some RF feedback issues with these. You’ll almost certainly need a common mode choke or decent counterpoise for best results. My first EFHW caused some interference with my computer monitor and other electronics in the shack. They also tend to pick up more noise than some other antenna types I’ve used. And be prepared for your SWR to shift around a bit when it rains or the temperature changes drastically.

End Fed Half Wave Antenna Build Difficulty

I’d rate these about 2 out of 5 on the difficulty scale for building. The trickiest part is making the impedance matching transformer, which involves winding wire around a ferrite toroid. You’ll need basic soldering skills and the ability to drill a few holes in a project box to house the transformer. Nothing too complicated, but not quite as simple as a basic dipole.

End Fed Half Wave Antenna Cost (Build vs Buy)

end fed Types of Ham Radio Antennas

DIY Option: When I built mine, it cost me about $40-60 for all the parts – wire, project box, ferrite toroid core, connectors, and mounting hardware. The ferrite toroid was the priciest part of the build.

Commercial Options: If you’d rather buy one ready-made, they start around $40 for basic QRP models and go up to around $180 for the heavy-duty versions rated at 1,500 watts. A nice middle ground would be the JYR8010 150W model.

End Fed Half Wave Antenna Best Use Case

I’ve found my EFHW really shines in certain situations. It’s perfect for:

  • Portable operations – I use mine all the time for POTA and SOTA activations
  • Limited space installations – the flexible configuration options saved me when I lived in a small lot
  • Emergency communications when you need quick deployment
  • Beginners looking for their first effective HF antenna
  • Field Day and other temporary setups where ease of installation matters

The radiation pattern is essentially the same as a dipole when you’re using it on its fundamental frequency, but it changes as you move up in frequency. When I use mine on 20 meters (the second harmonic of my 40m antenna), I notice the lobes form at different angles than on 40m.

Wire Dipole Antenna

wire dipole ham radio antenna

Image Source: Palomar Engineers

If you ask ten different hams what the best “first antenna” is, at least eight of them will probably tell you it’s the wire dipole. There’s a good reason for this – I’ve built numerous dipoles over the years, and they continue to be my reference standard for comparing other antennas. When someone asks me “how does antenna X perform?” I almost always answer in terms of how it compares to a dipole at the same height.

Wire Dipole Antenna Description

At its heart, a wire dipole couldn’t be simpler – it’s just two equal-length wires connected to your feedline in the middle. The math for figuring out how long to make it is pretty straightforward too: 468 divided by your frequency in MHz gives you the total length in feet. So for a 20-meter dipole at 14.200 MHz, you’d end up with about 33 feet total length, with each leg being around 16.5 feet.

One thing I really like about dipoles is their flexibility in how you hang them. You can string them up completely horizontal (flattop), hang them with the middle high and the ends lower (inverted V), or even slope them with one end higher than the other. The inverted V is particularly handy since you only need one tall support in the middle – perfect if you’ve just got one decent tree to work with.

Wire Dipole Antenna Frequency Range

I’ve built dipoles for pretty much every band from 80 meters up to 10 meters. While most people build single-band dipoles at first, you can easily make them work on multiple bands by creating what’s called a “fan dipole” – essentially multiple dipoles sharing the same feedpoint.

The bandwidth of your dipole (how much of the band it covers with low SWR) depends somewhat on the thickness of the wire. I’ve found that using thicker wire definitely helps if you want to cover more of a band without retuning.

Wire Dipole Antenna Pros and Cons

Pros:

  • Dead simple to build – honestly, if you can cut wire and tie knots, you can build a dipole
  • Really efficient when cut to the right length
  • Radiates well in all directions perpendicular to the wire – great for general use
  • The impedance at the center (around 72 ohms) is close enough to 50-ohm coax that you don’t absolutely need a tuner
  • Easy to tweak by trimming the ends if your SWR isn’t perfect

Cons:

  • You need enough space to fit the whole thing – half wavelength can be pretty long on lower bands
  • How high you hang it and what’s around it makes a big difference in performance
  • Single-band dipoles won’t let you change bands without a really good tuner
  • No gain in any particular direction like you’d get with a beam antenna

Wire Dipole Antenna Build Difficulty

On a scale of 1-5, dipoles are definitely a 1. This is absolutely the easiest antenna to build. All you really need is:

  • Some wire (I usually use 14 AWG, but 12-16 gauge works fine)
  • A center insulator to connect your coax
  • End insulators (even dog bone insulators from the hardware store work great)
  • Some coax and the right connector for your radio
  • Basic tools to measure and cut the wire

If you can strip wire and make electrical connections, you’ve got all the skills needed. This is why I always recommend dipoles as first antenna projects.

Wire Dipole Antenna Cost (Build vs Buy)

DIY Option: I’ve built plenty of dipoles for around $25-40 total. That gets you the wire, insulators, and even a simple 1:1 balun if you shop carefully.

Commercial Options: Ready-made dipoles start around $60 for basic single-banders and go up to $250+ for fancy multi-band versions. The Gipsy 5-50MHz dipole is an excellent middle ground antenna that would serve you very well.

Wire Dipole Antenna Best Use Case

In my experience, dipoles really shine for:

  • Home stations where you’ve got enough space to put one up
  • Field Day setups where you need something reliable and quick to deploy
  • New hams who need a first antenna that just works without fuss
  • Operators focused mostly on local and regional contacts

If you’ve only got one support point (like a single tall tree), the inverted V configuration works surprisingly well and gives you a bit more omnidirectional coverage than a perfectly horizontal dipole.

Vertical Antenna

vertical ham radio antenna

Image Source: The DXZone

If you’re dealing with limited horizontal space but still want to make solid contacts, vertical antennas might be your answer. I’ve used these skyward-pointing radiators for years when operating from locations where stringing up a wire dipole just wasn’t practical.

Vertical Antenna Description

A vertical antenna is pretty much what it sounds like – a single radiating element that sticks straight up from the ground with a system of radials serving as the ground plane. The quarter-wave vertical is what you’ll typically see, measuring about 234/frequency(MHz) feet in length.

Here’s something many new hams miss: most verticals absolutely need radials – those are conductive wires extending outward from the base – to create an effective RF ground plane. I learned this the hard way with my first vertical. Without a decent radial system, performance drops dramatically, and you’ll wonder why everyone else seems to hear stations you can’t.

Vertical Antenna Frequency Range

One thing I love about verticals is that they work across all amateur bands. They’re especially practical for lower frequencies (80-40m) where full-sized horizontal antennas would require huge amounts of space. I’ve seen multiband verticals that cover 2-30MHz with proper design.

Some commercial models like the Diamond BB-7V cover 10m through 80m without requiring complex tuning adjustments. This makes them pretty versatile for operators with limited space who still want to work multiple bands.

Vertical Antenna Pros and Cons

Pros:

  • Omnidirectional radiation pattern in the horizontal plane – no need to rotate anything
  • Low angle of radiation that’s perfect for DX contacts
  • Takes up minimal horizontal space (perfect for small lots)
  • Much easier to install than full-sized horizontal antennas for lower bands
  • Less dependent on ground conditions than wire antennas

Cons:

  • Pick up more electrical noise than horizontal antennas (I notice this especially in urban areas)
  • Need an extensive radial system for good performance (16-60 radials is ideal)
  • Lower overall gain than directional antennas like Yagis
  • Smaller models struggle with performance on lower frequency bands
  • Not as good for local communications as horizontal antennas
  • Quite expensive comparitively

Vertical Antenna Build Difficulty

I’d rate verticals about 3/5 on the difficulty scale. The antenna itself isn’t complicated, but creating an effective ground plane requires careful planning. If you’re building your first vertical, I’d recommend focusing on a quarter-wave design with at least 16 ground radials. That seems to be the sweet spot between performance and the amount of work involved.

Vertical Antenna Cost (Build vs Buy)

DIY Option: You can build a basic quarter-wave vertical for about $40-70, including wire, mounting hardware, and connectors. The most time-consuming part will be installing all those ground radials.

Commercial Options: Ready-made vertical antennas start around $95 for basic models and go up to $500+ for multiband versions with built-in matching networks. I’ve had good experiences with both the Comet Original CHA-250HD (around $470) and the DX Commander (about $499).

Vertical Antenna Best Use Case

In my experience, vertical antennas shine in these situations:

  • DX operation where that low-angle radiation helps you reach distant stations
  • Small lot installations where you simply don’t have room for horizontal wires
  • Lower bands (80-40m) where full-sized horizontal antennas would be enormous
  • HOA-restricted areas where you can disguise your vertical as a flagpole (I’ve done this!)
  • Mobile or portable operations where you need an omnidirectional pattern

If you’re mainly interested in working distant stations and have limited space, a vertical might be your best option. Just don’t skimp on those radials!

Hamstick / Trapped Dipole Antenna

Hamstick trapped dipole ham antenna

Image Source: Amazon.ca

I’ve played with Hamstick antennas quite a bit over the years, and they’re honestly one of the best compromises I’ve found for hams with space problems or those looking for mobile options. These compact little antennas won’t outperform a full-sized dipole – nothing does – but they’ll definitely get you on the air when nothing else will.

What Exactly is a Hamstick?

A Hamstick is basically a fiberglass stick with a loading coil built into it and a stainless steel whip on top that you can adjust for fine-tuning. The standard ones run about 8 feet total length, with the fiberglass part being around 44 inches. They’ve got a 3/8″ x 24 thread at the bottom that fits most standard mounts.

One of the coolest things I’ve done with Hamsticks is to use a pair of them to make a dipole. You just get a universal dipole mount (costs about $14), attach two identical Hamsticks, and you’ve got yourself a portable dipole that works surprisingly well. Trapped dipoles work on a similar principle but use tuned circuits (the “traps”) to effectively cut off portions of the wire at certain frequencies.

What Bands Do Hamsticks Cover?

Each Hamstick is designed for just one band, and you can find models covering everything from 6 meters through 80 meters. The bandwidth varies quite a bit depending on which band you’re using:

  • On 10 meters, you get about 2.6 MHz of bandwidth (basically the whole band)
  • 15 meter versions give you about 1.4 MHz
  • 20 meter models provide roughly 500 kHz
  • 40 meter ones only offer 60-170 kHz (depends on your setup)
  • 75/80 meter versions are really narrow at just 20-60 kHz

The Good and Bad of Hamsticks

What I like about Hamsticks:

  • They’re compact enough to throw in the trunk for portable ops
  • They won’t break the bank
  • Swapping bands is as simple as unscrewing one and putting on another
  • Once you’ve got them tuned, they’re pretty much set-and-forget
  • You can use them mobile or as dipoles with the right mount

What’s not so great:

  • The bandwidth is really limited, especially on the lower bands
  • They’re way less efficient than full-sized antennas (up to 18dB worse on 75m)
  • You might need separate antennas to cover different parts of the lower bands
  • Some can be frustrating to tune properly
  • I’ve found the 40m version to be particularly tricky to get right

How Hard Are They to Build?

I’d rate them about 2/5 on the difficulty scale. Most hams just buy Hamsticks rather than trying to make them because the loading coil is pretty specialized. That said, if you want to try making a trapped dipole, it’s doable if you’re comfortable winding coils and cutting wire to precise measurements. You’ll definitely want an antenna analyzer to help with tuning.

What Do They Cost?

If you want to build a trapped dipole yourself, expect to spend about $40-60 for materials including PVC pipe, wire, connectors, and mounting hardware.

Commercial Hamsticks typically run $20-30 each, so if you want to cover, say, four bands, you’re looking at $80-120. Add another $14 for the dipole mount if you want to use them that way. A great kit is the Shark Antennas S-F5S 5-pack which covers 10, 15, 20, 40, and 75m and runs about $150.

When Hamsticks Make the Most Sense

In my experience, Hamsticks really shine in these situations:

  • Mobile HF operation where full-sized antennas just aren’t going to work
  • Portable field operations like POTA activations (Parks On The Air)
  • If you’ve got HOA restrictions and need something less obvious
  • When you need to change bands quickly
  • Temporary setups where you can mount them as dipoles in attics or other limited spaces

I’ve made some surprising contacts with these little antennas. No, they don’t perform like a full-sized dipole or beam, but I’ve worked Europe from the eastern US with a mobile Hamstick on 20 meters, so they definitely do work. Sometimes “good enough to make contacts” is exactly what you need.

G5RV Antenna

g5rv ham radio antenna

Image Source: Ham Universe

The G5RV antenna has been around since Louis Varney designed it back in 1946, and I’ve found it to be one of those antennas that hams either love or hate. I’ve used a few different versions over the years, and while it’s not perfect for every situation, it’s a pretty solid compromise for those of us who want multi-band capability without needing an acre of land. In fact, the G5RV Jr was the first HF antenna I ever set up and it made me a lot of contacts.

G5RV Antenna Description

Want to know what makes a G5RV unique? It’s essentially a 102-foot center-fed dipole connected to a special matching section of ladder line or twin-lead. This isn’t your standard dipole though – the matching section is what gives it its special properties. That matching section needs to be pretty specific: about 34 feet for open-wire feeder, 31.3 feet for ladder line, or 28.5 feet if you’re using old TV twin lead.

The interesting thing about the G5RV is that it was actually designed as a 3/2-wavelength antenna for 20 meters, with the matching section working as a 1:1 impedance transformer. A lot of folks don’t realize this and think it’s meant to be a perfect multi-band antenna, which leads to some disappointment.

G5RV Antenna Frequency Range

I’ve had decent results using my G5RV across 80 through 10 meters, though performance definitely varies by band. The sweet spot is around 14.150 MHz (20m), where it gives you a reasonably close impedance match of about 90 ohms.

The antenna performs differently across various bands. On 80/75m, it works as a folded dipole, while on 40m it functions as two half-waves in phase. On 20m (where it’s happiest), it’s a three half-wavelength antenna, and on 15m, you get two full-wavelengths fed in-phase.

G5RV Antenna Pros and Cons

Pros:

  • You get multi-band coverage without needing traps or loading coils
  • It’s significantly smaller than a full-sized 80m dipole (102 feet vs 130+ feet)
  • They’re pretty cheap to build yourself
  • I’ve noticed better low-angle radiation patterns on higher bands
  • It works remarkably well and is an excellent choice for newcommers to HF

Cons:

  • Despite what some folks claim, you’ll need an antenna tuner on pretty much all bands (maybe except 20m)
  • SWR can get pretty wild on some bands (30m, 17m, and 10m are particularly rough)
  • Feed line losses can eat your signal when SWR is high
  • It’s not actually resonant on most bands, regardless of what you might hear

G5RV Antenna Build Difficulty

If you’ve got basic wire cutting skills and understand a bit about feed systems, a G5RV rates about 2 out of 5 on the difficulty scale. In my experience, the most important part is measuring the top section and matching line precisely.

If you’re building one for the first time, focus on getting that matching section right. It needs to hang vertically and stay away from metal objects. I made the mistake of letting mine drape over a metal gutter once, and it completely threw the tuning off.

G5RV Antenna Cost (Build vs Buy)

DIY Option: You can build your own G5RV for about $30-50, which includes wire, ladder line, and insulators. It’s one of the more economical antennas you can make.

Commercial Options: If building isn’t your thing, pre-made G5RV antennas run from $80 to about $195, depending on quality and whether they include extras like baluns. A good middleground version is the MFJ-1778 G5RV.

G5RV Antenna Best Use Case

I find the G5RV works best as a compromise antenna when you’ve got moderate space limitations but still want multi-band coverage. For best results, install it as a horizontal dipole at least 30-34 feet high.

If you can’t get it up that high horizontally, an inverted-V configuration works too, but try to keep the included angle over 120 degrees. For really tight spaces, there’s the G5RV Junior at 51 feet long that handles 40-10 meters. I’ve had one in my attic that worked surprisingly well for casual operating.

ZS6BKW Antenna

ZS6BKW g5rv ham radio antenna

Image Source: The DXZone

I’ve always found the G5RV to be a decent multi-band antenna, but I’ve was fortunate in that my HF rig includes a nice auto-tuner which some people don’t have. That’s where the ZS6BKW comes in. This antenna is basically what happens when someone takes a G5RV and actually optimizes it with computer modeling instead of just guessing.

Brian Austin (ZS6BKW) developed this antenna back in the 80s, and I think it’s one of the most underrated antennas in ham radio. I switched to one about three years ago when my G5RV jr was ripped apart in a storm, and honestly wish I’d done it sooner.

What Makes the ZS6BKW Different?

Unlike the original G5RV that needs a tuner on literally every band, the ZS6BKW actually works on five bands with an SWR under 1.5:1 without a tuner. The secret is in the specific dimensions – it uses about 92 feet of wire with 36.5 feet of 300-ohm ladder line (or 12.2 meters of 450-ohm line if you prefer).

L.B. Cebik, who knew more about antennas than most of us ever will, said: “Of all the G5RV antenna system cousins, the ZS6BKW antenna system has come closest to achieving the goal that is part of the G5RV mythology.”

In plain English, this means it actually works as advertised, which is pretty rare in the antenna world!

What Bands Does It Cover?

The ZS6BKW works great on 10, 12, 17, 20, and 40 meters without needing a tuner at all. With a decent tuner, you can also use it on 6, 15, 30, and 80 meters.

I’ve had great results on 20 and 40 – far better than my old G5RV ever managed. Some folks I know have added a doorknob capacitor to help tune it on 75/80m, which is something I might try next time I have mine down for maintenance. It seems a good place to start with one of these is a 1000pF or 1nF and 5kV Doorknob capacitor and work up from there if needed.

Pros and Cons of the ZS6BKW

The good stuff first:

  • Works on five bands without a tuner (this alone sold me)
  • Performs way better than a G5RV, especially on 20/40m
  • Seems less finicky about being near trees and other structures
  • Works well as either a flat-top or inverted-V
  • DX performance is impressive – I’ve worked Japan from the East Coast on 40W with mine

But it’s not perfect:

  • The ladder line SWR goes crazy when it gets wet from rain or heavy dew
  • You really need to get it up at least 40 feet high for it to work properly
  • Requires at least 70 feet of coax to complete the matching network
  • Still needs a tuner for 80, 15, 30, and 6m bands

How Hard Is It to Build?

On a scale of 1-5, I’d give this a 2/5 difficulty. It’s not quite as simple as a dipole, but it’s not rocket science either. The most critical part is getting the measurements right – this is definitely an antenna where precision matters.

If you’re building one yourself, pay close attention to the velocity factor of whatever ladder line you’re using. That’s where most folks mess up. Measure twice, cut once applies here more than ever.

What Will It Cost You?

If you build it yourself, expect to spend about $40-60 for wire, ladder line, and connectors. Not bad at all for a multi-band antenna.

If you’d rather buy one ready-made, you’ll spend between $100-150, with some of the fancier versions running up to $180. Still a bargain compared to many commercial antennas. I bought mine as the ARS-10098 G5RV Pro ZS6BKW optimized with 1:1 Balun from Amateur Radio Supplies.

When Should You Use a ZS6BKW?

This antenna really shines if you:

  • Have moderate space (but not enough for full 80m dipoles)
  • Want multi-band operation without constantly fiddling with a tuner
  • Can get it up at least 40 feet high
  • Are interested in DX work

I’ve had mine up for about three years now, stretched across the back yard in some trees about 40′ up, and it’s been fantastic on 20m. JA stations are like fish in a barrel on FT8 with just 40W. For the price and the performance, it’s hard to beat if you have the space to put it up.

Yagi-Uda Antenna

Image

Image Source: Hamradio.my

When you absolutely, positively need to focus your signal in one direction, nothing beats a Yagi-Uda antenna. I’ve used these beam antennas for years when I need to hit distant repeaters or work satellites, and they’re absolute game-changers compared to omnidirectional options.

Yagi Antenna Description

A Yagi is basically a directional antenna system that looks a bit like a fish skeleton – there’s a horizontal boom with various elements sticking out from it. What makes it work is the clever arrangement: one driven element (usually a dipole) connects to your radio, while a reflector sits behind it and one or more directors sit in front. Each piece has a specific job – the reflector (longest element) bounces signals forward, the driven element does the actual transmitting/receiving, and those directors (shortest elements) focus your beam where you point it. When everything’s properly aligned, you get constructive interference that pushes your signal in one direction – kind of like a laser pointer versus a light bulb.

Yagi Antenna Frequency Range

I’ve built and used Yagis for everything from 3 MHz all the way up to 3 GHz. The catch is that each antenna typically works in a narrow range – usually just 2-3% of its center frequency. This makes them perfect for focusing on specific bands. Most commercially available models target specific frequency segments like 900-930 MHz, 1250-1300 MHz, and 2400-2450 MHz. If you want multi-band operation, you’ll need special designs with traps that effectively shorten elements at higher frequencies – a bit more complex but definitely doable.

Yagi Antenna Pros and Cons

Pros:

  • Impressive gain (typically 7-12 dBi) that can really extend your range
  • Excellent directivity – perfect for targeting distant stations
  • Great front-to-back ratio that helps reject interfering signals from behind
  • Surprisingly lightweight for their performance
  • Won’t break the bank to build or buy

Cons:

  • Narrow bandwidth – not really a “swiss army knife” antenna
  • Needs precise tuning to work effectively
  • You’ll hit diminishing returns at about 20 dB gain without getting into complex arrays
  • The bigger they get, the trickier they are to install and keep aligned
  • More vulnerable to wind and weather than simpler antennas

Yagi Antenna Build Difficulty

I’d rate building a Yagi at about 3/5 on the difficulty scale. The toughest part is getting all the measurements precise – a quarter-inch off can really impact performance. For my first build, I spent hours carefully measuring and cutting aluminum elements and mounting everything correctly on the boom. Materials are straightforward: aluminum tubing for elements, a strong boom (I prefer non-conductive material), and proper mounting hardware.

Yagi Antenna Cost (Build vs Buy)

DIY Option: I’ve built basic 144/440 Yagis for around $30-60 depending on what materials I had on hand and what I needed to buy. The satisfaction of crafting your own directional antenna is pretty rewarding too.

Commercial Options: If building isn’t your thing, you can find ready-made Yagi antennas starting at just $8-10 for simple 2.4 GHz models, while larger, more robust configurations typically run $30-100. For serious HF work, expect to pay more, a lot more, and then there is the tower and rotator so you better have some money saved up.

Yagi Antenna Best Use Case

Yagis shine when you need focused communication power. I’ve used them most successfully for:

  • Reaching that one distant repeater that nobody else can hit
  • Establishing reliable point-to-point links over significant distance
  • Working amateur satellites (where pointing precision is critical)
  • Extending WiFi range in a specific direction

The directional nature makes them perfect when you need to concentrate your signal power rather than broadcasting to everyone around you. When I installed my first serious Yagi and pointed it northeast, I suddenly had solid contacts with stations I could barely hear before.

Ground Plane Antenna

I’ve always thought of ground plane antennas as the reliable workhorses of ham radio. They’re not flashy or complicated, but they just plain work. I’ve built several over the years, and they continue to impress me with how much performance you can get from such a simple design.

What Exactly Is a Ground Plane Antenna?

The basic idea couldn’t be simpler – you’ve got a vertical element (usually a quarter wavelength long) that does the actual radiating, and then several radials coming out from the base that simulate a ground surface. The neat thing about this design is that the ground plane acts like a mirror, creating the electrical equivalent of a half-wave antenna while only requiring you to build half of it.

In most of the ones I’ve built, I’ve used four radials extending from the base. Some designs work with as few as two, but I’ve found four to be the sweet spot between performance and complexity. One little trick I’ve learned is to angle those radials downward at about 45 degrees – this helps match the antenna’s impedance closer to 50-ohms, which means better performance with standard coax.

What Bands Can You Use It On?

I’ve used ground plane antennas on just about every band from HF through UHF. They’re incredibly versatile. For VHF and UHF, I typically use aluminum or copper tubing for the radials – it’s rigid enough to hold its shape. For HF versions, I’ll use wire radials since they’re much more practical given the longer wavelengths.

The omnidirectional pattern makes these antennas particularly handy for mobile and portable setups. I’ve even tossed one up in a tree during Field Day when our main antenna went down, and it saved our operation.

The Good and Bad

Like everything in ham radio, ground planes come with tradeoffs.

The good parts:

  • They radiate equally in all horizontal directions, which is perfect when you don’t know where the other station might be
  • Super easy to adjust for low SWR (just trim the radiator a bit at a time)
  • They have surprisingly good bandwidth
  • They work reliably in almost any environment
  • They’re about as simple to build as antennas get

The downsides:

  • You absolutely need those radials for decent performance
  • They tend to pick up more noise than some other antenna types
  • The natural impedance is around 36 ohms, which isn’t a perfect match for 50-ohm systems
  • How well they work depends a lot on having a decent ground plane
  • Sometimes you need to add chokes to keep RF from coming back down your coax

How Hard Is It to Build One?

If you’re looking for your first antenna building project, this is it. I’d rate it a 1 out of 5 in difficulty. You can literally build one with some wire, a chassis-mount connector from your junk box, and basic tools.

The only moderately tricky part is measuring the vertical element and radials correctly. I usually cut them about 20% longer than the calculated values so I can tune by trimming. The classic formula is 234/frequency in MHz to get your length in feet. So for a 2-meter antenna at 146 MHz, that’s about 19.2 inches for the vertical element and each radial.

What’s It Going to Cost You?

DIY Option: Building your own ground plane is dirt cheap – usually $25-40 for wire and connectors. If you’ve got a junk box of parts like I do, you might build one for practically nothing.

Commercial Options: If you’d rather buy than build, simple VHF/UHF models start at around $40, while fancier commercial-grade multi-band versions can run $250 or more. I’ve used the Tram 1477-B for 2m/70cm operation from my house and it works like a charm and cost me about $80.

When Should You Use a Ground Plane?

These antennas really shine when you need omnidirectional coverage without a lot of space or complexity. They perform best when mounted at least 25 feet above ground, but I’ve used them much lower with acceptable results.

I particularly like them for:

  • Fixed base stations where you want to talk in any direction
  • Mobile applications (the car roof acts as your ground plane)
  • Portable setups where quick deployment matters
  • Emergency communications where reliability trumps everything

One thing I’ve learned through experience – the larger and flatter your ground plane, the better your antenna will perform, especially in mobile setups. A full-sized car roof works much better than a small magnetic mount on a trunk lid.

Roll-Up J-Pole Antenna

I’ve become a huge fan of roll-up J-pole antennas over the years, especially when I’m operating away from home. These flexible wonders deliver seriously impressive performance while taking up virtually no space in your go-kit. I’ve got one permanently tucked in my radio bag because they’re just that useful.

What Exactly Is A Roll-Up J-Pole?

These nifty antennas are typically made from thin twin-lead line in what’s called a SlimJIM configuration. The beauty of this design is that when you’re done using it, you can literally roll or fold it up and stick it in your pocket. Some of the better ones use amazingly durable materials – I’ve seen some made with Nitinol (a nickel-titanium alloy) that you can bend and twist without breaking.

When you’re ready to use one, you just hang it vertically from whatever’s handy – a tree branch, curtain rod, or even a suction cup hook on a window. Most commercial versions come with velcro straps to keep them neatly rolled up and dedicated hanging loops at the top.

What Bands Do They Work On?

Most roll-up J-poles are designed for VHF/UHF operation, primarily covering the 2-meter (144 MHz) and 70-centimeter (440 MHz) bands. The size varies based on the frequency – dual-band versions are typically around 19 inches long when deployed, while single-band models for 220 MHz and 440 MHz are just 12 inches and 6 inches respectively.

In my experience, dual-band models usually perform better on their primary band (usually 2m) with somewhat compromised performance on 70cm. That’s physics for you – it’s hard to optimize for both without some trade-offs.

Pros and Cons From My Experience

The good stuff first:

  • You’ll get about 3 dBi gain with a nice low takeoff angle
  • They’re incredibly lightweight – literally fits in your shirt pocket when rolled up
  • They absolutely smoke those rubber duck antennas that come with handhelds
  • No need for radials since it’s a half-wave design
  • They handle outdoor weather just fine
  • Perfect for HOA-restricted areas since they’re virtually invisible when deployed

The not-so-good stuff:

  • Nearby objects can affect performance significantly
  • If you get a dual-band version, the UHF performance is often a compromise
  • You might need adapters depending on your radio’s connector type
  • Heavy rain or dew can throw off the SWR

How Hard Are They To Build?

I’d rate them about 3 out of 5 on the difficulty scale. Not super easy, but definitely doable if you’ve got basic soldering skills. The trickiest part is cutting the coax sheath without damaging the ground braid underneath. Tuning requires adjusting the wire bridge position at the bottom of the ladder line, and I highly recommend using an antenna analyzer to get the SWR right.

What About Cost?

DIY Option: If you build one yourself, expect to spend about $25-35 for materials, mainly specialized twin-lead and connectors.

Commercial Options: Ready-made roll-up J-poles go for $30-60 depending on band coverage and accessories. The fancy ones with MOLLE pouches or specialized connectors typically run $10-15 more.

When Should You Use A Roll-Up J-Pole?

These antennas really shine in specific situations:

  • Emergency communications and go-kits (I keep one in my emergency pack)
  • POTA/SOTA activations when you’re hiking and every ounce counts
  • Hotel room operation during travel (hang it in front of a window)
  • Providing communications at public events where setting up is a challenge
  • Any situation where you need to be stealthy with your antenna

I’ve had some of my best portable contacts using a simple roll-up J-pole hung from a tree branch during a POTA activation. The performance-to-size ratio is honestly hard to beat for portable VHF/UHF operations.

Rubber Duck Antenna

We’ve all seen them – those stubby little antennas that come with practically every handheld radio ever made. The rubber duck antenna is probably the most recognizable antenna in ham radio. It’s also, unfortunately, about the most compromised antenna you can use, trading actual performance for convenience.

Rubber Duck Antenna Description

The rubber duck is basically a short monopole antenna with a wire coiled into a tight helix and wrapped in a rubber or plastic jacket for protection. I’ve taken a few apart over the years (usually after breaking them), and what you find inside is pretty simple – they work kind of like a base-loaded whip antenna but with the loading coil built right into the structure instead of sitting at the bottom. This clever design is why they can be so much shorter than a proper quarter-wave whip, typically only about 4-15% of a wavelength.

Rubber Duck Antenna Frequency Range

Most rubber ducks you’ll encounter operate between 150 MHz and 5 GHz. The ones that come with amateur radios are typically designed for:

  • 2m/70cm bands (144/440 MHz)
  • Some commercial versions cover 900 MHz for ISM applications
  • You’ll even find them on 2.4 GHz equipment for WiFi and Bluetooth

Rubber Duck Antenna Pros and Cons

Pros:

  • These little guys are incredibly tough – I’ve bent mine nearly in half with no damage
  • They’re perfect for pocket-sized radios where bigger antennas would be impractical
  • The radiation pattern is omnidirectional, so you don’t need to point them
  • They can handle any weather conditions you throw at them
  • They work perfectly well when distance is short and/or there are few obstructions

Cons:

  • Let’s be honest – their performance is terrible compared to almost any other antenna
  • They have a very narrow bandwidth due to their high Q factor
  • The current distribution is pretty terrible, making them electrically unpredictable
  • I’ve sometimes had to use reflectors just to get a usable signal in fringe areas

Rubber Duck Antenna Build Difficulty

With a difficulty of 1/5, you’d think these would be easy to build, but the truth is almost nobody makes their own. The specialized manufacturing needed for the helical coil and proper jacketing means it’s just not worth the effort. Just buy them – they’re cheap enough.

Rubber Duck Antenna Cost (Build vs Buy)

The generic rubber ducks typically run about $20-25, while name-brand versions from companies like Diamond or Comet will set you back around $35. If you want a high-performance model for a specific application, expect to pay $40-60. I’ve found little performance difference between the $25 and $35 models, to be honest. The absolute best I have found without getting stupid is the Diamond SRJ77CA for Baofeng style connectors or the Diamond SRH77CA for Yaesu style connectors. These provide a substantial increase in performance, have very good build quality, and won’t break the bank.

Rubber Duck Antenna Best Use Case

Rubber ducks shine in just one scenario: when portability matters more than performance. They’re perfect for:

  • Walking around a hamfest with your HT clipped to your belt
  • Emergency services where the radio needs to be compact and rugged
  • When you’re in an HOA that restricts visible antennas
  • Situations where you need to get on the air quickly without any setup

The bottom line is that rubber ducks are convenient, but if you’re serious about performance, the first thing you should do is replace it with literally any other antenna option I’ve covered in this article.

Comparison Table

Hey, I know we’ve covered a lot of different antennas here, and it can be pretty overwhelming to keep track of all the details. To make things easier, I’ve put together this comparison table based on my own experience and research. This is exactly the kind of resource I wish I’d had when I was starting out.

I’ve tried to break down the key factors that matter most when choosing an antenna. Looking at this table helped me make much better decisions for my own station, and I hope it’ll do the same for you.

Antenna TypeFrequency RangeBuild Difficulty (1-5)DIY CostCommercial CostKey AdvantagesKey DisadvantagesBest Use Case
End Fed Half Wave80-10m (multiband)2/5$40-60$40-180Easy installation, multiband operation, single-point connectionRF feedback issues, requires choke/counterpoisePortable operations, limited space installations
Wire Dipole80-10m1/5$25-40$60-250Simple design, high efficiency, omnidirectionalRequires adequate space, single-band limitationFixed home stations, beginners’ first antenna
Vertical80-10m3/5$40-70$95-500+Low angle radiation, compact footprintRequires extensive radial system, higher noiseDX operation, small lots, HOA restricted areas
Hamstick/Trapped6-80m2/5$40-60$20-30 eachCompact size, quick band changesLimited bandwidth, lower efficiencyMobile operation, portable setups, HOA restricted
G5RV80-10m2/5$30-50$80-195Multi-band coverage, smaller than full 80m dipoleRequires tuner on most bands, high SWRMulti-band operation with moderate space
ZS6BKW40-10m (some 80m)2/5$40-60$100-180Better performance than G5RV, fewer tuner requirementsLadder line affected by rain, height sensitiveDX operation, multi-band use without constant tuning
Yagi-Uda3 MHz – 3 GHz3/5$30-60$80-100+High gain, excellent directivityNarrow bandwidth, complex installationLong-distance point-to-point, satellite communications
Ground PlaneAll bands1/5$25-40$40-250+Simple construction, omnidirectional patternRequires adequate ground plane, noise susceptibleFixed base stations, mobile applications
Roll-Up J-PoleVHF/UHF3/5$25-35$30-60Ultra-portable, no radials neededPerformance affected by surroundingsPortable operations, emergency communications
Rubber Duck150 MHz – 5 GHz1/5N/A$20-60Extremely compact, durableSignificantly reduced gain, narrow bandwidthHandheld transceivers, local communications

I’ve found that difficulty ratings can be a bit subjective – what’s easy for me might be challenging for you, especially if you’re just starting out. That said, I’ve tried to be as objective as possible with these ratings based on the typical skills needed. The dipole and ground plane antennas are genuinely easy first projects, while something like the roll-up J-pole requires more finesse with the construction.

Cost is another thing that varies pretty widely depending on what materials you already have and where you source things. The ranges I’ve given here are based on typical costs if you’re buying most materials new. If you’re like me and have a junk box full of wire, connectors, and other random parts, you might build these for a fraction of the costs listed.

Conclusion: Types of ham radio antennas

Look, I’ve tried pretty much every antenna on this list over the years, and I can tell you this much – there’s no single “perfect” antenna for everyone. It all comes down to your specific situation, budget, and what you’re trying to accomplish on the air.

If you’re just getting started, I highly recommend going with either a simple wire dipole or a G5RV like the MFJ-1778 G5RV. If you prefer building, they’re incredibly easy to build (even with minimal skills), they’re dirt cheap at under $40 for materials, and they actually work really well when properly installed. I built my first dipole with some wire from the hardware store and a couple of insulators I made from PVC pipe scraps. It wasn’t pretty, but it got me contacts across the country. If you want the best in this class, get the ARS-10098 G5RV Pro ZS6BKW optimized with 1:1 Balun.

For those of you dealing with space limitations (I feel your pain – I operated from an apartment for years), the End Fed Half Wave is probably your best bet. The ability to run the wire in all sorts of creative configurations saved my ham radio hobby when I had minimal outdoor space. I also had very good results from a G5RV Jr if you have a little more room than an apartment. I also really like the G5RV Jr because being shorter, it is a LOT easier to handle and get set up for the first time user.

When it comes to build vs buy, here’s my take – if you’re reasonably handy and enjoy tinkering, build your first few antennas yourself. Not only will you save money, but you’ll also gain a much better understanding of how they work. Commercial antennas usually cost 2-3 times more than DIY versions, but they do save you time and sometimes come with better hardware. Buying also allows you to spend more time on the air and less time fiddling with things, which is important to a lot of people.

The single biggest factor in antenna performance? Height. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen hams spend hundreds on fancy antennas, only to mount them six feet off the ground. A basic wire dipole at 30 feet will absolutely crush an expensive commercial antenna at 10 feet. Get that radiator up as high as you possibly can!

For the portable operators out there, don’t overlook the roll-up J-pole or a lightweight EFHW. I’ve made contacts over 1,000 miles with a roll-up J-pole hanging from a tree branch during a camping trip. On the other hand, if you’re chasing DX contacts, you’ll probably want to look at verticals or Yagi directional arrays.

Remember this – experimentation can be half the fun in ham radio. I’ve built dozens of antennas over the years, some worked great, others were complete failures. Each one taught me something valuable. The perfect antenna for your station needs to balance your specific space constraints, the frequencies you want to work, and your personal operating goals.

If I had to recommend one antenna for someone getting into HF, I would probably go with the G5RV Jr as it presents the best balance of space used, cost, performance, and ease of installation. I don’t like a one-size-fits-all approach, but some people really want to be given one choice to make things easy. If you have a little bit of a yard and want to get up on HF fast and easy, this will do it.

What’s been your experience? Which antenna has worked best for your situation? Share your stories – your successes and failures might help another ham make better choices for their setup.